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Hi
I have tried to set my 351c right but it still feels that its not runing correct. So I will pull the motor out for rebuild.
My plan is to reuse, intake manifold, heads , carb.
Is there a receipt for a go known combination. I have not found anything yet..
I was thinking to inspect the block, maybe bore 0.2 depends on quality.
I will reuse the 2v heads.
New pistons for better compression, new camshaft / valves / springs /bearings etc/balance
Whats can I expect from using the 2v heads ? in torque / HP
Ive read that it could possibly deliver 375-400 hp, but Ive not seen any specs on the builds.
Im afraid my budget will no allow new heads..
Im I going the wrong way or ?
Regards Rob
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I can not comment on any gain/loss by reinstalling your 2v heads but simply by refreshing your motor as described above you should expect to see an increase in performance. Of course, as M1FF pointed out in another post is the importance of proper tuning to dial in on maximum performance. If you are concerned about the performance of the 2v heads maybe a cost saving alternative to new heads is have your 2v heads and intake manifold ported.
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(07-11-2015, 12:47 AM)Mustangmike Wrote: If you are concerned about the performance of the 2v heads maybe a cost saving alternative to new heads is have your 2v heads and intake manifold ported.
I was told that porting the old heads in Sweden is the same price as buying new aluminium heads. Could that really be true ?
regards Rob
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Sounds like things are very costly in Sweden.
As usually a decent port job should be roughly half the cost of new aluminum heads. A full on race port, polish,and matching job can cost more then new aluminum heads but that's not what you want for street use. The 2v heads are very capable of supporting 400+ horsepower, but you have to bring everything else up as well. Call Comp Cams, and tell them what you have, and what you want, they will tell you all the right stuff to get you there, and maybe save you some money in the long run. They are located in Memphis, Tennessee. USA The phone number is 1-800-999-0853. They are on Central Time, (zone) I'm not sure how big a deal it is to call from Sweden, but it could be worth the effort. Hope it helps JTS 71 Mach1
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375 - 400 HP is well within a respectable goal for a 351C build.
Check out Chuck's figures at: 529 HP @ 6,400 RPM / 496 TQ @ 4,900 RPM http://mach1club.com/showthread.php?tid=1367
Granted, he is running some fancier stuff but the basic story is the same.
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My first thought is that a budget is to be deemed your stop gap measure.
If you worry about the overall costs then I would try to simply use great internals in your build and good balancing and blue printing for a very smooth engine. It's my gut feeling that you will much more appreciate a clean running smooth engine with a few off the shelf performance upgrades that will run clean and with no weird unwarranted vibrations.
You will be finished much sooner and driving it sooner as well.
That engine will perform great.
Just look on E-bay.
Those high performance mods are very expensive.
I can't imagine buying these parts overseas then paying to ship them.
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Thanks all
Ive sent an email to Comp Camps so wil see what they suggest.
The budget is tight, so I really have to squeeze it.
How about thoose master rebuild kits ? that includes pistons etc ..
Are the reliable ?
True about a smooth running Engine, drivability and a problem free Engine is probably number one. But of course I cant be a muscle car without muscles :-)
Best regards Rob
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If you go with a rebuild kit, make sure it's a Major Manufacturer, as the cheapo's are usually from China and not very good at all. Definitely wouldn't be an Ebay purchase! JTS 71 Mach1
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Thanks
What rebuild kits would you suggest ?
Regards Rob
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This is just an example.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-cs...el/mustang Something with quality brand name off-the-shelf parts like this kit has is fine for a stock to mild performance build. The contents of this kit is typical. There are still a lot of other parts needed, cam , timing chain and gear set, valve springs and other valvetrain parts. Also, it is very common to replace at least the connecting rod bolts and cylinder head bolts with bolts from ARP. Some say ARP fasteners are overkill for strength on a stock or mild performance motor. But the fact is the stronger ARP bolts provide more clamping force on gaskets or between mating parts.
Don't buy any internal engine parts until yours is disassembled and inspected.
How many miles are on the motor you plan to rebuild? You mention it doesn't seem to run correctly. Does it have cylinders with low compression? It is burning a lot of oil and maybe fouling spark plugs? Mechanical noises? It could simply be worn to the point of needing a rebuild.
Regards,
Mike
