70 Boss 302 - Night Mission build blog
That's a beautiful car.  Nice clean and not flashy.  Your a patient man.  I cannot believe the time that's going into the bumpers.  I'm happy when things fit and look as good as original.  Is the end product still going to look like the rendering or have things beyond the bumpers changed a little?  Was that an original Boss 302 car?
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(12-03-2018, 06:49 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: That's a beautiful car.  Nice clean and not flashy.  Your a patient man.  I cannot believe the time that's going into the bumpers.  I'm happy when things fit and look as good as original.  Is the end product still going to look like the rendering or have things beyond the bumpers changed a little?  Was that an original Boss 302 car?

Thanks very much for that!  The bumper project has definitely taken more time than expected, but I can't settle for something that isn't right.

Believe it or not, there are only three deviations from the original rendering that will change:  1)  No side-exit exhaust.  2)  Different side mirrors.  3)  Body color bumpers instead of chrome.  The last debate we are having in the shop is if we will paint the center of the upper deck lid surface black or leave it white like the rendering.  

Also, yes, this is an original Boss 302 car, 0F02G180622.
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(12-02-2018, 12:52 PM)SWPruett Wrote:
(12-02-2018, 08:52 AM)Mustangmike Wrote: Very impressive!  I certainly do not have the patience or skills for what you doing but wish I did.  What comes after the bumper and  how much farther do you have to go to finish the car?  I am very anxious in seeing see finished product.

Mike

Mike,

Thanks very much!

The bumper project is kind of going on in parallel to quite a few other things on the car.  The next "deep dive" project is to section a rather poor fitting replacement driver door to fit the OEM fender properly.  I have always had a bit of heartburn over the variability in the 69-70 replacement doors and decided to just go on and fix this one rather than cart it back to NPD and mess with the new door merry-go-round.  Youwill start seeing those updates coming soon.

The reproduction doors have always been an issue for most year Mustangs.  I don't think I ever come across anyone who was happy with the fitment of a repo door.  Reading your website and the work you have done, I am confident you will have no issues getting the door lines looking good.  On my Fairlane I had to redo poor bodywork a body shop did for the previous owner on the passenger side door.  The car was sideswiped at some point in its life and instead of doing the job correctly they used about an inch thick of bondo to sculpt the door.  There was so much bondo on it there was no metal for a magnet to hold onto.  I cut a section of the door out and fabricated a new piece in.  Where the leading edge of the door meets the fender I couldn't get the gap right so I ended up building the edge up with weld and grinding it down until I had a perfect gap.  Now when you put a magnet on the door you have to fight to pull it off.
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(12-03-2018, 11:54 AM)Mustangmike Wrote:
(12-02-2018, 12:52 PM)SWPruett Wrote:
(12-02-2018, 08:52 AM)Mustangmike Wrote: Very impressive!  I certainly do not have the patience or skills for what you doing but wish I did.  What comes after the bumper and  how much farther do you have to go to finish the car?  I am very anxious in seeing see finished product.

Mike

Mike,

Thanks very much!

The bumper project is kind of going on in parallel to quite a few other things on the car.  The next "deep dive" project is to section a rather poor fitting replacement driver door to fit the OEM fender properly.  I have always had a bit of heartburn over the variability in the 69-70 replacement doors and decided to just go on and fix this one rather than cart it back to NPD and mess with the new door merry-go-round.  Youwill start seeing those updates coming soon.

The reproduction doors have always been an issue for most year Mustangs.  I don't think I ever come across anyone who was happy with the fitment of a repo door.  Reading your website and the work you have done, I am confident you will have no issues getting the door lines looking good.  On my Fairlane I had to redo poor bodywork a body shop did for the previous owner on the passenger side door.  The car was sideswiped at some point in its life and instead of doing the job correctly they used about an inch thick of bondo to sculpt the door.  There was so much bondo on it there was no metal for a magnet to hold onto.  I cut a section of the door out and fabricated a new piece in.  Where the leading edge of the door meets the fender I couldn't get the gap right so I ended up building the edge up with weld and grinding it down until I had a perfect gap.  Now when you put a magnet on the door you have to fight to pull it off.

Mike,

Very true.  You'd think by now, the doors would have gotten better, but not from what I've sen over the years.

Your Fairlane door sounds like it was a real challenge!  You absolutely did the right thing in the way you repaired it and I can imagine your frustration when you found the "cave-it-and-pave-it" bondo work.  To this day, I get incredibly pi$$ed when I run into that!
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(12-03-2018, 01:09 PM)SWPruett Wrote:
(12-03-2018, 11:54 AM)Mustangmike Wrote:
(12-02-2018, 12:52 PM)SWPruett Wrote:
(12-02-2018, 08:52 AM)Mustangmike Wrote: Very impressive!  I certainly do not have the patience or skills for what you doing but wish I did.  What comes after the bumper and  how much farther do you have to go to finish the car?  I am very anxious in seeing see finished product.

Mike

Mike,

Thanks very much!

The bumper project is kind of going on in parallel to quite a few other things on the car.  The next "deep dive" project is to section a rather poor fitting replacement driver door to fit the OEM fender properly.  I have always had a bit of heartburn over the variability in the 69-70 replacement doors and decided to just go on and fix this one rather than cart it back to NPD and mess with the new door merry-go-round.  Youwill start seeing those updates coming soon.

The reproduction doors have always been an issue for most year Mustangs.  I don't think I ever come across anyone who was happy with the fitment of a repo door.  Reading your website and the work you have done, I am confident you will have no issues getting the door lines looking good.  On my Fairlane I had to redo poor bodywork a body shop did for the previous owner on the passenger side door.  The car was sideswiped at some point in its life and instead of doing the job correctly they used about an inch thick of bondo to sculpt the door.  There was so much bondo on it there was no metal for a magnet to hold onto.  I cut a section of the door out and fabricated a new piece in.  Where the leading edge of the door meets the fender I couldn't get the gap right so I ended up building the edge up with weld and grinding it down until I had a perfect gap.  Now when you put a magnet on the door you have to fight to pull it off.

Mike,

Very true.  You'd think by now, the doors would have gotten better, but not from what I've sen over the years.

Your Fairlane door sounds like it was a real challenge!  You absolutely did the right thing in the way you repaired it and I can imagine your frustration when you found the "cave-it-and-pave-it" bondo work.  To this day, I get incredibly pi$$ed when I run into that!

Yup, it was poor quality work that someone unfortunately paid for.  If you looked at the leading edge of the door the lip had to be at least 3/8 inches wide, if not more.  You could tell right away there was bondo.
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Did you try to find used original doors instead of reworking aftermarket doors?  I don't know, in general the aftermarket reproduction market seems to have poor quality all around when compared to original.  Plus, in my mind, if you're going to rework it, why not start with an original part.  My Mach 1 is nothing like your project Boss 302.  But my drivers door needed work and the guy I had doing the body and paint told me not to bother getting a new repro door, better off working with the original door.
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(12-04-2018, 05:21 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: Did you try to find used original doors instead of reworking aftermarket doors?  I don't know, in general the aftermarket reproduction market seems to have poor quality all around when compared to original.  Plus, in my mind, if you're going to rework it, why not start with an original part.  My Mach 1 is nothing like your project Boss 302.  But my drivers door needed work and the guy I had doing the body and paint told me not to bother getting a new repro door, better off working with the original door.

Oh yes!  A good original door is ALWAYS the best choice.  However, several things must be considered as there is a definite "break point" where an original door no longer makes sense.  Here in the salty Midwest, there is no such thing as a "good" used door much anymore.  Might as well be a unicorn.  That means, we have to go far and wide for a good door that is even repairable and the rarity of them these days means that they command a fairly stiff price.

Let's say I find one for $200 in Colorado (a pretty good deal).  Shipping on 50 pounds in what is defined as an "oversized" package by UPS via cheapest ground method rings in at another $100.  Now the door is $300 before I even get to assess the work required which, at minimum, will include a door skin ($135) and a lot of rust removal/repair.  At this point, we're faced with a minimum investment of $435 and no guarantee what we get as a "sight unseen" purchase is 100% usable.

Today (12/04), NPD's price on a new repop door is $389.75 and they are 1 hour away from me.  I already know I'm going to have to put a bunch of time in it anyway, so it becomes somewhat of a wash right about this point.  Wish it wasn't this way, but that is where it has gotten in my assessment.
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You're right.  On the west coast rust is not as big of a concern.  I got lucky, at least with rust.  My Mach 1 only needed a small patch in the floor on the drivers side near where the driver would rest his right foot.  It was less than a square foot in size.
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(12-05-2018, 12:04 PM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: You're right.  On the west coast rust is not as big of a concern.  I got lucky, at least with rust.  My Mach 1 only needed a small patch in the floor on the drivers side near where the driver would rest his right foot.  It was less than a square foot in size.

Oh what I would give to see nice sheet metal like that again!  You are truly lucky to have such a solid machine to enjoy!  Some of the stuff we have to "rebuild" is painful!
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(12-06-2018, 11:45 AM)SWPruett Wrote:
(12-05-2018, 12:04 PM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: You're right.  On the west coast rust is not as big of a concern.  I got lucky, at least with rust.  My Mach 1 only needed a small patch in the floor on the drivers side near where the driver would rest his right foot.  It was less than a square foot in size.

Oh what I would give to see nice sheet metal like that again!  You are truly lucky to have such a solid machine to enjoy!  Some of the stuff we have to "rebuild" is painful!

Hey Man I just looked at your profile, and realized you are from Michigan. I was originally born, and raised just south of Chicago, Kankakee Il. and boy do I remember "RUST" I took Auto Body repair, at the Career Center, in 76" & 77". I can remember 1980 Camaro's when they were about 5 years old. You could walk up, and reach into the trunk from the side, and never have to open the lid. We cut squares of sheet metal, and brazed pieces in, to make repairs. As doing Floor pans was pretty much unheard of. And it was just gonna rust again anyway! Man have things changed. Living in Arkansas for the last 35+ years has kinda spoiled me. As you don't see much rust down here. Unless it's sat on the ground for 30 years. Then the body will look great, but there won't be any floors in it. LOL!

JTS
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