Problems with my Hurst Shifter and my transmission
okay, I'm having troubles with my 72 mach 1, and before I go get it checked out, I would like some advice. every time I take her out for a spin, I have to stop at a stop sign. I shift down the gears to second, and then i try for first, but I get locked out.ShockIt's not that I'm going to slow, because i can sit at the stop sign and not be able to put her in first.

My "quick fix", more or less, is to shift in to fourth, third, second, and try again. If that doesn't work(usual), I try wiggling the shifter in neutral a bit until I can put her in first. Then I head on my way, and I almost never happens again on that trip.

Before, I just told myself that," the tranny is just cold, or its not lubed right". But this is getting to be an every trip occurance.SCo_hmmthink

Any ideas before I take her to a shop? Cuz I don't really trust the local shops. They have a tendency to, " not finish the job". I'd do it my self, but mach1's are too low to the ground for me to sqeeze under. I barely have enough room to change the oil. And I'd rather not jack her up 4ft. in the air with out better a jack than handyman.
It sounds like a shifter linkage issue.

The issue is not as normal on the latter models but were predominate on the 69's. It sounds as if it needs a good disassembly, clean, inspection for wear, greased, reassembled and adjusted.

It'll have to be done if you want to enjoy the drive with confidence. If you think you might like to get into doing some mechanical work on your car for yourself it would be a good opportunity to purchase a good set of ramps, floor jack and stands and have a go. If not, try to find some local word of mouth from hotrodders to find a good shop.
How much free play do you have in the clutch pedal ?
Free play is perfect in the clutch, and my father(a truck mechanic) agrees with the fact that it maybe the linkage. Thanks for the ideasThumbup. I'll post back if that works.
My experience with shifters suggest lock-outs are mainly due to linkage adjustment or shifter wear.

To adjust the linkages first ensure the gearbox is in neutral (roll car back/forward), then disconnect rods from shifter, align the shifter to neutral position & insert 1/4" rod ( I am guessing the 72 Hurst shifter has the alignment hole), then adjust and reconnect rods back to shifter & remove 1/4" rod. (If you google top loader shifter adjustment you will definitely find a step-by-step procedure somewhere).

I guess it would be a good idea at this time to inspect the shifter mechanism for signs of wear. It could also be the small bushings on the ends of the shifter rods which need replacing. Otherwise the shifter could be worn out. I now have a new Hurst Competition Plus in my 69 Mach 1 and highly recommend them but for the sake of originality I would have the old Hurst shifter rebuilt.

BTW if you are going to work under the car I highly recommend a set of jack stands or ramps, don't trust you life on the seals inside your hydraulic jack! Better still, get it on a vehicle hoist if you can.
Actually, you don't need to remove the rods. Just loosen the nuts at the adjustment slots at the back of the rods by the shifter. Find a drill bit that is as tight a fit as possible for the alignment holes thru the shift levers. Push the bit thru all three levers @ shifter. Make sure the tranny is in nuetral and the levers (the other ones .... the individual levers on tranny) centered in their travel area when in nuetral. Tighten the nuts @ the adjustment slots. Remove the drill bit. Fine tune if needed after running it thru the gears.....
I lubed her up a bit n cleaned her out a week ago. She's been shifting great since! I did a lil googling n found I wasn't cleaning it out as regularly as I should of (noob mistake). Thank you for all the advice. It will b/ was helpful.
Great cheap and easy fix, glad it worked out for you!

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