Install a Blueprinted Suspension on your Classic Ford Mustang by Marlon Mitchell

[Mach 1 Club]

For several years, I’ve contributed How-To write-ups to numerous publications, namely Mustang Monthly. With the help of photographer/writer Jim Smart, these articles have proven helpful to countless readers and enthusiasts. The photos below all took place at my shop, Marlo's Frame & Alignment.

I’m always thinking of ways to improve classic Mustangs. They suffer from all kinds of brake and suspension woe, and have seen a lot of them after 30 years in the alignment business.



This is the new Classic Fly-Ford front suspension system for vintage Mustangs. What makes this system different is its stealthy demeanor. Although you can’t see the changes, you can feel them.

From the factory, Mustang upper control arms bind and wander on their shafts, causing frontend alignment to change as the car drives over dips in the road. Ford could’ve done a better job. One example is lubrication. Ford should’ve installed grease fittings at the upper arm pivots but didn’t due to cost considerations. Few upper control arm bushings were regularly lubricated during the normal service life of a vintage Mustang. This caused upper control arm binding, noise, and shock tower cracking.

I decided to go back to the drawing board to redesign Ford’s spring-over upper control arm system. Using the original upper and lower control stampings as a foundation, I developed a fully articulating shaft assembly that allows arm movement without altering frontend alignment. What’s more, it’s smooth and quiet, without the traditional popping experienced with stock Mustang upper control arms. This level of performance can only be achieved with high-quality stainless steel and oil-impregnated bronze bushings.

These arms can last a life-time if they receive lubrication on a regular basis, such as when the engine oil and filter are changed. In addition, the lower control arms are fitted with urethane and cad-plated steel bushings for reliable performance and improved handling.

The cool thing about the Classic Fly-Ford Mustang Suspension System is its stealthy appearance. Aside from upper control arm shaft ends, these arms look bone stock.



Stainless steel and oil-impregnated bronze bushings provide smoothness and streamlined articulation. Aside from occasional chassis lubrication, they require virtually no maintenance. These arms can last a lifetime.



Flipping over Fly-Ford’s upper arms, the difference is clear. Check out the hard stainless steel shaft and bronze bushings. Keep them lubricated and they’ll easily last 100,000 miles. What’s more, they have a fixed design that doesn’t go out of adjustment.



Fly-Ford has improved spring perches for smooth, no-bind operation. Note the same stainless steel/bronze construction with a grease fitting. These spring perches don’t bind, so operation is silent.



Fly-Ford’s lower control arms are fitted with urethane and bronze bushings for exceptional performance over the factory components.



The lower ball joint construction is identical to the original equipment, yielding a factory original appearance.




Fly-Ford spring perches bolt to the upper control arm with provided hardware, as shown.



Comparison between Fly-Ford and OE spring perches: The Fly-Ford spring perch has a heavier shaft with stainless steel/bronze construction for durability. It’s quieter than stock.



Room for Improvement: Original Mustang upper control arm design was driven by cost, not engineering. It’s a metal-to-metal design, where steel bushings screw onto iron shafts. The arm moves fore and aft as it moves about its pivot, adversely affecting frontend alignment. This is why it’s challenging to keep vintage-Mustang frontends aligned.



The Classic Fly-Ford front suspension system installs the same way as stock pieces. Aside from upper arm shims for ’65-’66, there’s no adjustment.



At a glance, the Classic Fly-Ford arm has an OEM look.



Check shock tower clearance with the Classic Fly-Ford upper arm. There’s no conflict when it’s time to lube the upper arm jerks.



Know How-To Safety? There are a lot of approaches to safe tying fasteners, including cotter pins for suspension castle nuts and safety wire for bolts. However, there’s only one right way to secure a castle nut. After torquing the nuts and confirming torque, insert the cotter pin, bending one leg over the stud and nut. Cut the other leg off short as shown at the castle. This is a foolproof system of securing a nut without concern for it working loose.

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Marlon Mitchell is the owner and founder of Marlo's Frame & Alignment/Fly-Ford Racing in Chatsworth, California. Be sure to check out all of the specialty services his shop offers the auto enthusiast community.

[FlyFord]

You Can Also Post Your Question's On My Message Board and you do not have to sign up for anything >> at:
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[Mach 1 Club]

I just had this suspension installed, definitely makes a difference. I spent a week in California from Phoenix while Marlon and his crew installed the new suspension. We basically redid everything that involves suspension and brakes. Then had a great time testing out the suspension on the twisties near Pacific Coast Highway, unbelievable difference as far as handling goes. As soon as I get some time I will be adding video of some of the new suspension!