Ok I’ll probably hold off and see how the car performs after it’s all back together. I’ve replaced every single component of the brakes already but I still don’t feel they are all that good.
If you have a radical cam which produces low vacuum 10 or 11 inches. You will have trouble with power brakes, as there isn't enough vacuum to work the booster properly. Which can cause a harder then normal pressure on the pedal, and reduced braking efficiency. Check your vacuum at Idle most cars produce 15 to as high as 18 or so inches of vacuum. My 500HP 351 Cleveland had about 10 inches, and was a bear to stop in a panic situation, and only slightly worse then normal braking, with the stock engine. You may need to setup a vacuum pump with a vacuum tank just for the power brakes.
(12-01-2021, 10:13 PM)JackWagon3 Wrote: Thanks limeboy, I talked to Alan and he’s building me a nodular Yukon 3.70 with posi and new 31 spline axles. Should only be a 2 week turn around time. Very cool. Also got my 5 speed conversion ordered from Modern Driveline and AC/heat unit from Classic auto air. Quickest $10k I’ve spent in a long time. Merry Xmas to me!! Decided to hold off a month or 2 on the rear disc conversion though. Figured I’d wait and see how the car performs then decide if I really need it. Also sent my steering gear box and power steering pump to Roger Rode in Ohio to rebuild both things. $200 for the Saginaw gear box and pump to be rebuilt. Great find there! So now it’s disassemble time. Hell yea!
Glad to see you used Alan and the diff looks really good. I'll be interested to see if you go the rear disc route or not, I've wondered if there is a reasonable cost 4 piston front conversion as I'm happy with the rear end but would like the front discs to have a bit more bite.
I've got long tube Hookers on my '70 but they are low with the Hotchkis springs on the front but I'm buying a set of Sanderson shorties from a friend here in the UK and will try and fit them sometime this year ( not looking forward to taking the long tubes off!!).
Well I'm making good progress. Got the new aluminum driveshaft in, so the drive train is all done. Now started on the classic auto air system install. Man getting the old heater box out was a bitch but the condensor, compressor, and all the plumbing went in great.
Sent off the entire wiring harness to Midlife and it comes back tomorrow to me. Pretty excited to have it all freshen up. But I know it's going to suck putting it back in. If all goes to plan, I could be driving it in a month.
What's really going to suck is the 750 mile break-in period I have to do. New clutch, TKX 5 speed and new rear 3:70 end gears...yea I don't wanna break something prematurely. But it's going to be hard not to lay into the skinny pedal...
I never really babied anything, "I Drove It Like I Stole It" from the Go! I built my 500+HP 351, and ran it to break in the cam over a couple days tuning it, and sorting carb issues etc. Then first time out, I dropped the hammer, and scared the Bejesus out of myself, but man what a ride! Only to find I had blown the freeze plug behind the cam out, limped it home, and installed a copper expandable plug, and all was good. If it ain't strong enough to stand up to the pressure right off the bat? What makes you think it will hold up later??? Just my thoughts. Maybe I was just lucky. LOL!
Ok electrical question time..
Got the wiring harness back from Randy Jacobson (whom I highly recommend) and got the engine compartment done and most of the under dash area.
The Classic Auto Air is in too. Can't wait to have air! Now wiring the sucker.. it has 2 power wires that need to go to ignition power. Both have an inline 20amp fuse on it too. Where is my best option for these? Which wires for the original heater connector should I use?
And radio..Randy said he put the wiring back to original for that connector too. My classic auto sound radio needs an ignition power and and constant(battery). Does the original radio power connector that I have now (2 prong female plug) work for this? The radio was wired differently before (probably wrong) and the ignition power wire was spliced into the brown wire at the heater plug and the battery wire was tied into a relay close to the main fuse box which I assume a flasher relay? I just don't want to over load anything and screw something up.
I also have a 12v plug I want to install so I can charge phones and stuff. Any suggestions where to add that to?
First off the heater can be hooked to the original spot in the fuse block, in the original position for the heater as I believe it was a 30amp fuse to begin with. If you went with a modern fuse block. Then find the heaviest gauge wire coming out the back. That should be the heater circuit. As for the radio, the original only had one power wire as there was no memory to feed with battery power to the radio. So the yellow wire to the radio simply has to hooked be a battery positive, any where coming from the fuse block. Not sure what relay you are talking about. The Mach1 has two flasher cans. One at the top right corner of the original fuse block. Which is for the Turn Signals. The Hazard Flasher can is located in front of the heater box near the glove compartment, passenger side. For the 12 Volt I would simply utilize the cigarette lighter plug with one of the adapters to provide phone charging. Simple and already there. Hope it helps
Ok kickin ass...wiring is all back in and dash re-installed. And Holy $hit it runs! Got my power steering pump and Saginaw box from Roger Rode and went to install it back in the car with the new air compressor installed and it won't go in. Seems like either the adjusting bracket is from a wrong year or possibly the pump was from a different year. Does anyone have a pic of their pump with the bracket on a 2v 351C?
It appears something is up with my old set up. The top bolt on the adjusting plate, which is the pivot bolt, was only attached to the pump bracket and didn't go all the way thru to the head like I've seen pictures of. And that top pivot hole doesn't line up with the hole on the head either. Would that mean the adjusting bracket is wrong or possibly the water pump is not correct? I guess I could just get an aftermarket power steering bracket but I'd rather have an oem one. Really want to get this figured out as it's the last thing to do to get it back on the road again
Major Winter projects
I never really babied anything, "I Drove It Like I Stole It" from the Go! I built my 500+HP 351, and ran it to break in the cam over a couple days tuning it, and sorting carb issues etc. Then first time out, I dropped the hammer, and scared the Bejesus out of myself, 
but man what a ride! Only to find I had blown the freeze plug behind the cam out, limped it home, and installed a copper expandable plug, and all was good. If it ain't strong enough to stand up to the pressure right off the bat? What makes you think it will hold up later??? Just my thoughts. Maybe I was just lucky. LOL!![[-]](https://mach1club.com/images/collapse.png "[-]")
