Major Winter projects
#1
Ok well I decided to pull the trigger and just get a loan to pay for all the upgrades I’ll be doing starting in the next 2 weeks. Figured I may as well get everything now vs piece by piece. And since I quit smoking (cigarettes), that’s how I justified a car payment again. Lol. It’s crazy what I was spending each month on smokes when I did a little math. Ugh… 

So currently I have 3.00 gears and a c4 auto. Yuk.. so I have priced out a 5 speed conversion from Modern Driveline and am doing 3.73 gears and rear disc brake conversion while I’m at it. I’ll make sure to take lots of pics along the way too. And I’m not looking to make this some ridiculous track car, just fun as hell to drive. I’ll be buried in the damn thing too so it’ll never be sold, May as well make it what I want now. Hoping to see somewhere north of 450 hp.

I know I definitely don’t want a 1 wheel peeler anymore too...so would I be best to get a whole new 3rd member all assembled? Or just rebuild my current 3rd member? I do have access to a press and can do the work but was thinking to just get one that I could just drop in and be done with it.. I was thinking either Yukon or Curry but haven’t chose which one yet. 

After the new gears, disc brakes and 5 speed are done I’ll be moving forward towards the motor. Been doing a lot of reading on heads and decided on a set of TrickFlo. They seemed to have made a head that is the best of the 2v and 4v heads combined and appear pretty bulletproof. Currently I have 2v heads. Long tube headers will be put on too, thinking Hooker but haven’t decided 100% yet. If someone has a better choice, I’m all ears. I’ve already switched over to MSD electronic ignition and electric fuel pump and a new edelbrock 650 carb so a new cam is all that is left to do up front, unless I find something bad when I pull the heads and oil pan and inspect the block. Not looking for anything too wild, just something with a little more grunt. But if I find something I don’t like, I’ll be doing the block and rotating assembly as well. Don’t wanna pull the motor twice.

Also picked up a new AC/heat unit from classic auto air too. Pretty excited to have functioning heat and now AC! And this thing looks very straightforward to install. And now the fiancé won’t bitch about sweating in the summer. Lol. And while I have the motor out I’m definitely replacing the whole wiring harness too. Unfortunately the only one that seems I like is from Painless. Wish someone would make one specifically for 71-73 but it hasn’t happened yet. 

So for now my main questions are at the rear... Any suggestions or advice on making this go smoothly would be greatly appreciated. Especially when it comes to the 5 speed conversion. I’m sure a few guys have done it here. Can’t wait to drive this thing in the spring. It’ll be a completely different driving experience.
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#2
Well if it was me I'd buy the whole chunk, with 3.73 and Posi already assembled, and ready to go. I know there are kits etc, etc, etc.
But what have you really got? While setting up a nine inch isn't all that hard. If it goes wrong, who do you have to blame, the man in the mirror. If you bought one ready to go you have some recourse, a pain in the arse, but still recourse. I'd also weigh the cost of the full rebuild kit, gear set, and a posi unit, against a ready to go one. That could also be a deciding factor. As far as brand, I would go with a reputable one Curry, Rockwell, Eaton, Yukon gear, All of these companies have been around for years, and My train of thought is to usually shoot for the middle range. Not the best they make, and not the worst, somewhere in the middle. That's where I usually get the best results. I have personally used Yukon gears, when my 08 Mustang chewed up a bearing and all was good. A 9 inch is the toughest rear end on the planet. Get a good one, and forget it. They also make tons of disc brake kits, to fit the 9 inch as well.
    I agree that Hookers will be your best bet, as far as headers as I had a set years ago on my 71 Mach1. They cleared everything by a solid 1/2 inch or better and it's awful tight getting around the frame mounted power steering box on a 71 Mach1. Next issue will be the clutch, linkage/cable/hydraulic. As the original setup used a z bar, to actuate the clutch. Which the headers will clear if bought for a stick. A hydraulic would be nice except you have to adapt a 3rd pedal, and the slave cylinder. A cable is simple but sometimes hard to keep the cable off the headers, and still get a good angle to the bellhousing. Choices, Choices, Choices.  Just be sure to tell whoever you get it from, all the different pieces involved and adjust accordingly, as this may work with that, but not with this scenario. Will definitely bite you in the AZZ!

Compression is the key to hp. I'd shoot for 10.5, and a cam to match. Comp has a tech department that's second to none and if you give them all the specs they ask for, you should get a great cam.  And a monster! Mine was north of 500 hp back in 79"

Sounds like it's gonna be a long Winter, and an Exciting Spring! Go for it Shoot for the stars, and hang on, it'll be a hairy ride. And remember You never lose, until you quit Trying!

Good Luck,  

JTS
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#3
Might be worth getting in touch with Alan here,

https://8and9inchfordrears.com/

he built me a 3.50 trac lok in a dated  case for my 70 and shipped it to the UK for less than I could get my own unit built to the same standard here.
I fitted it a few weeks ago and have done 200 miles so far and have had no problems so far.
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#4
Thanks limeboy, I talked to Alan and he’s building me a nodular Yukon 3.70 with posi and new 31 spline axles. Should only be a 2 week turn around time. Very cool. Also got my 5 speed conversion ordered from Modern Driveline and AC/heat unit from Classic auto air. Quickest $10k I’ve spent in a long time. Merry Xmas to me!! Decided to hold off a month or 2 on the rear disc conversion though. Figured I’d wait and see how the car performs then decide if I really need it. Also sent my steering gear box and power steering pump to Roger Rode in Ohio to rebuild both things. $200 for the Saginaw gear box and pump to be rebuilt. Great find there! So now it’s disassemble time. Hell yea!
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#5
Sounds like a great deal. How much did it cost if you don't mind my asking? 

JTS
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#6
$5900 for the 5 speed conversion from Modern Driveline. Comes with literally everything I need to convert. Then $1700 for the 3rd member and axles, and $1600 for the AC/heat unit. Still need to source a new complete wiring harness from somewhere. I found Painless and they have a kit but I’m not sure if it comes with all new connectors or if I have to re-use the old connectors. Waiting to hear back from them on that question. Figured I may as well do that since I will have most the damn car tore apart. Lol
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#7
So is the rear drum to disc conversion really worth it? Will it really stop that much better?
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#8
Big question  little answer No, LOL!  Now the techno crap.  It will reduce rear wheel lockup which drum brakes are known to do. But that is usually in a panic stop situation. under normal, and even hard braking drums will do a good job, they are a little more prone to fade under heavy repeated use,. But with today's better friction materials. They will do the job quite efficiently. Now if your gonna road race or track the thing. Then you probably need the rear disc setup. Then you will need a complete kit front and back. Where all the math is worked out for you. As the proportioning valve will definitely become an issue if you don't. Or you will need to get an adjustable proportioning valve. Then go through the process of figuring out how to balance the system. I was always told the front brakes did 90% of the stopping, and all the rears were there for was to keep things in line. Take it for what it's worth. Normal everyday spirited driving. I'd buy really good quality pads and shoes, and stick with the drums. Clean and paint them with hi temp paint to match or accent the car, and have a nice day, with all the money you saved. Just My Thoughts. 
  Gears

JTS
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#9
Right on thanks. Only thing I’m still stuck on is the wiring harness. I’ve found that every harness so far says “many” original connectors and sockets. Not sure I like that wording though. Kinda defeats the purpose if I have to cut the original connectors and solder them in. Painless and American auto wire and CJ Pony all say the same wording. Ugh…anyone know of any out there that are truly a complete harness?
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#10
Sorry but I've had no experience with replacement wiring for the old Mustangs etc. This stuff didn't exist back when I was hot and heavy into this stuff. So I just don't know. You should be me I had to buy a Parts car due to an engine fire, to get all the wiring and components under the dash of my Jacobra, (89 Jag XJS + Ford 460= Jacobra). As nobody on the planet sells a wiring harness for a Jag! New or Old! LOL!

Sounds to me like a phone call to American, CJ, or Painless, is in order to sort out the meaning of "many" original connectors???? Phone calls are a lot cheaper then "buy and try"! Just my thoughts. 

JTS
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