Lifter tap?
#11
Thats a really good easy to follow guide JT thanks a lot  Thumbup

I intend to try and dismantle all the lifters to clean them ( making sure I know which lifter goes in which bore) so I have a couple more questions.

1 - can I reuse the spring clips that hold the lifters together when I dismantle them or should they be replaced and any hints on how to get them out without damaging them?

2 - the age old question of " should you soak the lifters overnight in oil" or can I just make sure they " are not dry " when I put them back?

I'm still a little bothered that I seem unable to depress the spring on the 3 lifters I've tried so far, I'm sure they are not seized as the engine ran so well and so quietly prior to the tick, any thoughts?
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#12
    Just taken a couple apart, they were impossible to push down but got the clips out easily and used an airline to blow them apart, no dirt, rust or crud just "stuck" perhaps as I think it's not been run for years and my 300 miles has upset it ( good thing probably) I've put one back together and it's now very easy to push down.
Plan is now to dismantle and clean all of them then set the valve lash using JTS's instructions and hopefully all will be good.
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#13
At this point all you can do is try. it doesn't take a lot of dirt or crud to stick a lifter. look for any scratches / scoring on the internal pieces of the lifter, reassemble and see if it works. One thing I forgot to mention, be sure to use New High Quality lock nuts for the rockers. Hope it helps.  Cool

JTS

PS Being it's a Ford you can usually put a new set of lifters in on the old cam. I've done this myself, several times, and had no issues. Be sure to break them in, just as you would a new cam, and lifters. Now you Chevy Boys. (who might be listening) Do Not Try This!  Naughty   You will chew up a cam, and lifters! This is not a maybe, it's a guarantee! Sorry but it's the truth.   Confused
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#14
Ah my latest problem is the locknuts!
Ones I can by over here are for 5/16" or 3/8" studs but mine are 0.430" ( 7/16")  Huh

Is that correct or are they some sort of odd size stud?
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#15
You are correct as they are 7/16 studs.  they are called 7/16 - 14. Coarse Thread. The 14 stands for 14 threads per inch. 7/16 is a common size over here. Not as widely used as 3/8 but still quite common. They use 7/16 studs because they figured out the 3/8 studs were flexing, so Ford went to 7/16 studs. We have a company over here called Fastenal, they do nothing but fasteners, nuts bolts etc. I would bet if you don't have a company like them. Look them up on line they should be able to send you what you need? Just a thought. 

JTS
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#16
Can somebody explain what's going on with the bottom of that lifter?  I have never seen a wear pattern like that or a finish like that on a new lifter.  If it were mine, I'd consider a new set of lifters like JTS mentioned.  Just use Break-In non-synthetic oil and break them in like a new cam and lifter set.

You can buy poly-locks or maybe replacement lock nuts from places like Summit Racing or Jegs.  They ship world wide.  7/16" is a common aftermarket rocker stud size.  I have them on my 351W.

From the picture those rocker studs look like fine thread, 7/16-20 UNF.  The end that screws into the head is course thread and the rocker arm end is fine thread.
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#17
69 Mach1 (Mike) is correct after looking at the photos again. He is 100% correct they are 7/16 - 20 or fine thread. Sorry I hope I didn't mess you up, and get you to order the wrong thing. I just looked at it wrong I guess. They have always been coarse on the part that threads into the cylinder head, and fine thread on the end the rocker goes on. JEZZZZ Man I'm sorry, please tell me you haven't ordered the wrong ones.  Confused

JTS
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#18
                No problem, wrong part not ordered ( I spent all my working life in engineering) I've found a place over here that reckons they can get me 12 OEM lock nuts ( obsolete they say) .

The " to change the lifters or not" question is down to the fact that it was only the "ticking" caused by ( I believe) the loose nut on that particular valve that led me to take the manifold off, I could have just tightened it up and I'm sure it would have gone away ( until it came loose again!).
My fear is putting new lifters in and somehow damaging the cam ( there is also a cost implication, break in oil is expensive here and added to the lifters it all starts adding up).
As to the wear on the bottom of the lifters I cant see anything particular apart from what looks like normal wear and tear no signs of damage.
I would prefer lifters / cam etc done together in the future when my understanding of these engines is greater and my wife doesn't want me building a pond in the back garden!

Latest discovery is that the fan is a Boss 302 item ( mustang tech)  and the carb spacer ( cracked but repaired years ago by the look of it) is also Boss 302 ( so expensive and hard to replace!).
I've also discovered English ovens are too small, and as it the second day of Summer here it's raining and cold so I'm putting a heater on in the garage as I give the manifold a second coat.

I do appreciate all the opinions though.

I will try and attach pictures but who knows  Huh
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#19
Those carb spacers are being reproduced and sold for a reasonably low cost.  So don't get too excited about it.

That fan looks was probably used on Boss 302 motors but it also looks like what came stock on the 351W motors in 1969.  A word of caution about those fans.  Those were Ford's OEM "flex fan" and the aluminum blades would often crack and eventually send a blade through the shroud, hoses, into the hood, etc.  I saw it happen on my older brothers Mach 1 back in the early 1980's.  Fortunately his just destroyed the fan shroud.  Ford stopped using those fans for that reason.  It might be worth hanging on the wall and going with something a little safer, clutch fan, etc.
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#20
I'd better give the fan a good look over for cracks while its off then.

Can you tell me where I can get a good repro carb spacer, the only one I found was with NPD and the reviews were all bad.
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