A/C gas how much?
#1
I'm trying to get my A/C re-gassed ( original but with R134 i think) and as nobody has any spec about how much gas is needed I'm trying to get an accurate idea of how much as I've seen "1.5lbs to 2lbs " mentioned.
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#2
I've only done one conversion and the kit with the new charging valves and oil had instructions on what percentage of the original R12 charge to use.

If it were my car, I'd first try to find some R12 maybe on EBay.  The R134A molecules are smaller than the R12 molecules and tend to leak at connections and some merely through the old hose material in R12 systems.  R134A systems use more elaborate multiple O-ring connections and different types of hose.  Also, R134A operates at much higher pressures than R12.  So, old R12 compressors tend not to last very long.
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#3
(05-29-2021, 06:13 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: I've only done one conversion and the kit with the new charging valves and oil had instructions on what percentage of the original R12 charge to use.

If it were my car, I'd first try to find some R12 maybe on EBay.  The R134A molecules are smaller than the R12 molecules and tend to leak at connections and some merely through the old hose material in R12 systems.  R134A systems use more elaborate multiple O-ring connections and different types of hose.  Also, R134A operates at much higher pressures than R12.  So, old R12 compressors tend not to last very long.

Ah, when i said original system I meant "generally" it was changed to R134 around 20 years ago and had a new York compressor in 2011.
I had it charged yesterday with 20oz as the High side valve is seized and didnt want to wreck anything, I was more interested in seeing if it worked at all and it does, I have cold ( reasonably) air.
my plan is to change the valves, drier and expansion valve next year. 
I've since found a receipt from 2011 and it had 28oz put in then so might try nearer that next year.

Of course things never run smoothly with old cars, by the time I got home I'd developed a "sticky / duff" tappet i think  (it was a warm day, for us anyway and even though the inaccurate gauge stayed low I know it got hot under the hood)) making a bit of noise  Confused
Again looking at a bill from 2003 ( only 2,000 mls ago) there were lifter issues ( trans oil put in for a bit which obviously cured it) so I now have to plan to change them all I think, another steep learning curve but i did plan on taking the manifold off and cleaning it anyway so I might kill 2 birds soon.
Any tips about changing lifters and setting the clearances  will be gratefully received  Thumbup
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#4
What motor is in the car?  Is it still stock?  I ask because by 1969-1970 most (if not all) small block Ford motors did not have adjustable valvetrain.

What type of oil are you using in the motor?  In these classic cars I have had best luck with either Lucus or Joe Gibs Racing conventional motor oils.  The type labeled for Hot Rods and Classic Cars.  If you have a flat tappet type cam and lifter setup, almost all parts store oils will not have enough Zinc and eventually ruin the cam and lifters.  Plus the Hot Rod and Classic Car oils cling to surfaces to keep parts lubricated during long periods of non-use.
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#5
   
[attachment=13292 Wrote:     1969_Mach1 pid='40706' dateline='1622399981']What motor is in the car?  Is it still stock?  I ask because by 1969-1970 most (if not all) small block Ford motors did not have adjustable valvetrain.

What type of oil are you using in the motor?  In these classic cars I have had best luck with either Lucus or Joe Gibs Racing conventional motor oils.  The type labeled for Hot Rods and Classic Cars.  If you have a flat tappet type cam and lifter setup, almost all parts store oils will not have enough Zinc and eventually ruin the cam and lifters.  Plus the Hot Rod and Classic Car oils cling to surfaces to keep parts lubricated during long periods of non-use.

This is what I know -
H code car
2 bolt mains block (H code on the brass plate not original serial number though)
4* heads -  1971 castings I think ( open / closed who knows!)
Push rod guides ( Boss 351?)
Boss valve covers ( genuine I think, they have the oil fingers and the coil wire holders were screwed to the cover)
Boss 351 intake manifold (casting number matches according to mustang tek site)
4 barrel Holley

I'm using a UK high zinc oil specially blended for these engines so it should be fine.
I've done 300 miles in her since getting her but dont think it was used much at all between 2011 and me getting it.
I was in engineering all my working life and worked on cars and motorbikes from 11 years old but I never had any dealings with hydraulic lifters or V8's ( not very common over here!)
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#6
(05-31-2021, 05:03 PM)Limeyboy Wrote:
(05-31-2021, 04:39 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: What motor is in the car?  Is it still stock?  I ask because by 1969-1970 most (if not all) small block Ford motors did not have adjustable valvetrain.

What type of oil are you using in the motor?  In these classic cars I have had best luck with either Lucus or Joe Gibs Racing conventional motor oils.  The type labeled for Hot Rods and Classic Cars.  If you have a flat tappet type cam and lifter setup, almost all parts store oils will not have enough Zinc and eventually ruin the cam and lifters.  Plus the Hot Rod and Classic Car oils cling to surfaces to keep parts lubricated during long periods of non-use.

This is what I know -
H code car
2 bolt mains block (H code on the brass plate not original serial number though)
4* heads -  1971 castings I think ( open / closed who knows!)
Push rod guides ( Boss 351?)
Boss valve covers ( genuine I think, they have the oil fingers and the coil wire holders were screwed to the cover)
Boss 351 intake manifold (casting number matches according to mustang tek site)
4 barrel Holley

I'm using a UK high zinc oil specially blended for these engines so it should be fine.
I've done 300 miles in her since getting her but dont think it was used much at all between 2011 and me getting it.
I was in engineering all my working life and worked on cars and motorbikes from 11 years old but I never had any dealings with hydraulic lifters or V8's ( not very common over here!)
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#7
My knowledge is you cannot mix R-12 with R-134 unless you do a full flush of the a/c system as the oils do not mix and the seals will leak. You  can check with Custom Air Systems, the have the info you need to do this. As far as engine oil, I have used 30W in my Boss 302 .and my 351 cleavland motor as the valve train components are the same, except  for the lifters and valves.
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