Newbie - Just brought this baby home
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 2,305
Threads: 44
Joined: May 2012
Welcome to the site. It looks like you found a pretty solid, low mileage and mostly original car. Except for the tears in the driver's seat the interior looks to be in really good shape. By the looks of the faded paint the car looks like it had spent it life in a dry climate and should be an easy restoration back to original.
In regards to the electrical problem did you use a test light to check the fuses? Sometimes it is difficult to tell if the fuses are blown by visual inspection. If you have a test light, place the pointer at the end of each fuse. The test light should light up when you touch each end of the fuse. If it only lights up on one side then you have a bad fuse. You may have to turn your key one click to the right for this test so there is power. I would start with testing the fuses first. If your fuses are good, you will have to see if you have power going to the components that are not working. This can be done with a test light as well. Other possibilities are dead bulbs, poor connections, or even possibly a grounding issue. Once again, I would start with the fuse box to rule out that out first. You didn't mention if your windshield wipers work?
Mike
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Thanks mike, I will try that...the wipers, radio, headlight, heat/air/fan...none of those work, which from what I read is all tied to that one fuse. I looked online at CJ and is strange that their fuse kit only include the 2amp for that fuse and not a 4amp...
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(01-31-2019, 06:11 AM)sonicboom Wrote: Thanks mike, I will try that...the wipers, radio, headlight, heat/air/fan...none of those work, which from what I read is all tied to that one fuse. I looked online at CJ and is strange that their fuse kit only include the 2amp for that fuse and not a 4amp...
Definitely sounds like a fuse box issue since nothing seems to be working. You may have to pull the fuses and inspect the fuse box contacts. They may need to be cleaned up and new fuses put in. It is not uncommon to have corrosion on the contacts where the fuses push into. It can be a little tedious cleaning them but it can be done with a little patience. I am not so familiar with the 71-73 Mustangs but I thought the correct fuse for the switched accessories and headlights is a 14A. Let me know how you make out with testing the fuses.
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Welcome, looks Pretty Good for 46 year old. Got all the Right Bumps, in all the Right Places. LOL! The back of the fuse box mates with the underhood harness, and the connections are prone to corrosion damage etc. This is where all the main power comes in from the battery, and feeds the entire car so you may have a issue where the two halves come together? Hope it helps.
JTS
Posts: 4,181
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Welcome!
Very nice find.
It sounds like you have been given good advice on your electrical problem. Using either a meter or a simple 12V test light you should be able to test wires, fuse ends, etc. and come up with the problem.
Thanks for joining and thanks for sharing the pictures.
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Welcome to the site from Virginia. Looks like a solid 73. Good tips on the electrical system. I remember having to clean the contacts on my fuse block on my 73 convertible. Hopefully that will work for you too.
Posts: 2,305
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I am glad to see this thread pop up again. Sonic Boom, just curious if you where you able to fix the electrical problem?
Mike
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