73 Grande Restoration

[taby448]

Mike (1969 Mach 1) just about covers everything.  I pulled my shop manual and it mentions checking for a restricted PCV.   Other things might be a sticking fuel inlet needle, incorrectly installed throttle plates, improperly adjusted or defective dashpot (like Mike mentioned) to name a few.

It also mentions excessive looseness of the throttle shaft in bores of the throttle body.  I know this can cause a vacuum leak and often overlooked or not corrected during a rebuild.

Like Mike mention, check the simple stuff first like vacuum leaks and the PCV before tearing into the carburetor.  Out of curiosity do you know who rebuilt the carburetor?

I'l check the hoses before I play around with the carb, I do not know who rebuilt the carburetor, so I'll treat it like someone who didn't know what they were doing did it.

[1969_Mach1]

One method to find vacuum leaks is with the engine idling, spray carb or brake cleaner around areas where leaks might occur, intake manifold gaskets, base of car, etc.  I've heard WD-40 also works but I haven't tried it.  The idle speed will change (usually improve and speed up) if you spray in an area of a vacuum leak.

A WORD OF CAUTION:  There are a lot of sparks occurring inside the distributor cap.  If the vapors from what you are spraying get inside the dist. cap, a fire will most likely start.  Also, a spark from a leaking spark plug wire can start a fire.

[taby448]

One method to find vacuum leaks is with the engine idling, spray carb or brake cleaner around areas where leaks might occur, intake manifold gaskets, base of car, etc.  I've heard WD-40 also works but I haven't tried it.  The idle speed will change (usually improve and speed up) if you spray in an area of a vacuum leak.

A WORD OF CAUTION:  There are a lot of sparks occurring inside the distributor cap.  If the vapors from what you are spraying get inside the dist. cap, a fire will most likely start.  Also, a spark from a leaking spark plug wire can start a fiW

Would soapy-water be a good idea? it'll bubble up where the leaks are coming from

[Mustangmike]

Soapy water will work on finding a tire leak but not a vacuum.  There is a different airflow direction with a vacuum leak.  Air is sucking into the engine so you won't see bubbles. 

Here is what Mike is talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa8Yu1oCTVI

[Steven Harris]

A wee bit of a late welcome - WELCOME.

It looks like you have landed in good hands.  Your Grande looks really solid.  You mentioned rust in the trunk - any pictures of that area?

[taby448]

Soapy water will work on finding a tire leak but not a vacuum.  There is a different airflow direction with a vacuum leak.  Air is sucking into the engine so you won't see bubbles. 

Here is what Mike is talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa8Yu1oCTVI

AHH yeah I forgot! It's pulling air in

[taby448]

A wee bit of a late welcome - WELCOME.

It looks like you have landed in good hands.  Your Grande looks really solid.  You mentioned rust in the trunk - any pictures of that area?

I can upload pictures of the trunk when I get home, I didn't take any yet! Definitely needs welding work by how it looks.

[taby448]

Heres photos of the truck (I was a bit lazy taking them, its pouring outside!)
           
Also id like to note (past the trunk lid, under the panel, rust. What am I getting myself into? 
       

[JTS71 Mach1]

Well Taby this is where the plot thickens, so to say. If you want to do a full restoration the the sheet metal can all be replaced. As virtually every piece is reproduced, and all it takes is tearing the car down to the point you can replace the damaged/rusted sheetmetal. Which is very labor intensive, and time consuming, not to mention the fact that you probably won't be driving it till done, which could involve several years. 
   Now the other side of the coin. From the pictures you have posted of the whole car. I don't see any actual rust through??? If there are any "real holes" they need repaired. If you have a few pinholes here and there, and nothing more then the surface rust thats visible. You can take, and use a heavy wire wheel, on a grinder, and clean 95% of the surface rust off, then use a rust converter, and apply as directed. Then when all done, you can paint over it as desired. If this was a "Highly Optioned, Priceless Mach1" Of some significance, I would go the full restoration. But if you want to drive, and enjoy the car, for what it is. A fun and cool looking old ride. Then I'd probably go the more direct route, and still be able to drive it, while making repairs. Just my thoughts.

JTS

[taby448]

Well Taby this is where the plot thickens, so to say. If you want to do a full restoration the the sheet metal can all be replaced. As virtually every piece is reproduced, and all it takes is tearing the car down to the point you can replace the damaged/rusted sheetmetal. Which is very labor intensive, and time consuming, not to mention the fact that you probably won't be driving it till done, which could involve several years. 
   Now the other side of the coin. From the pictures you have posted of the whole car. I don't see any actual rust through??? If there are any "real holes" they need repaired. If you have a few pinholes here and there, and nothing more then the surface rust thats visible. You can take, and use a heavy wire wheel, on a grinder, and clean 95% of the surface rust off, then use a rust converter, and apply as directed. Then when all done, you can paint over it as desired. If this was a "Highly Optioned, Priceless Mach1" Of some significance, I would go the full restoration. But if you want to drive, and enjoy the car, for what it is. A fun and cool looking old ride. Then I'd probably go the more direct route, and still be able to drive it, while making repairs. Just my thoughts.

JTS

Theres only one hole in the trunk floor, near the drivers side tail light. I wont know if it needs to be replaced until it gets wirewheeled down. I don't want to drive it until its 90% done atleast. I took note of the information from the vin and door jamb, and the cars giving me a headache! 
vin: 3F01Hxxxxx
Body: 65D Hardtop?
Color: 3K Blue Glow
Trim: AB Medium Blue
Trans: X Fmx 
Axle: 2
DSO: 57
Would It be normal for a hardtop shell to be reused for a different model car from the factory? or am I dealing with an odd car?