While I have the 4 speed transmission out I am going to install an original cast iron bell housing. The aluminum one currently on there is okay, I just would like it more original. Plus, I've noticed (I might be wrong) that Ford used cast iron bell housings on 351W, 351C and anything larger. Aluminum bell housings were on 302 and small motors.
Question: What was the original color of these bell housings or did Ford leave them unpainted? I purchased it from Perogie Enterprises and it comes bead blasted and painted dark Ford Blue. Is that correct or should it be painted a cast iron grey color?
I finally buckled down and disassembled the trans. It destroyed the front bearing. The rear bearing is also bad, but not as much. I'm thinking metal from the front bearing got into the rear bearing. Again, probably from initially having the wrong front bearing retainer causing the trans to be misaligned to the crank. I didn't find any metal shavings anywhere else.
(05-02-2017, 09:36 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: Thanks for the information.
I finally buckled down and disassembled the trans. It destroyed the front bearing. The rear bearing is also bad, but not as much. I'm thinking metal from the front bearing got into the rear bearing. Again, probably from initially having the wrong front bearing retainer causing the trans to be misaligned to the crank. I didn't find any metal shavings anywhere else.
Mike
You must also remember, that if the metal got to the rear bearing it also went through every gear, bearing, and even the synchronizers. Which has altered each and every piece. Take a magnifying glass and look at the gears, and see if you cant see superficial dents/ pitting,or graying, on the face of the teeth. While it shouldn't pose a real problem it can still be another source of the whine, or more likely a slightly noisy gear box. Loud pipes or just turn up the Stereo! Just my thoughts JTS
I don't want to start buying gears for it. But, I'll look closer with my magnifying glass. Yeah, I need one or reading glasses to read fine print these days. Strange, the oil was as clean as can be. Hopefully that a good sign.
So far, all in all, where I have found metal shavings were stuck to inside walls of the tailshaft housing, the magnetic drain plug, the bottom of the top cover gasket, and a few embedded into the rear thrust washer for the reverse idler gear. Everywhere else (what's left) has been clean so far.
I also got a new shaft for the counter shaft cluster assembly. There was some normal wear on it. The shaft for the reverse idler also has a little wear at one end. I might replace that as well. Depends on how long it takes to get one.
(05-02-2017, 09:36 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: Thanks for the information.
I finally buckled down and disassembled the trans. It destroyed the front bearing. The rear bearing is also bad, but not as much. I'm thinking metal from the front bearing got into the rear bearing. Again, probably from initially having the wrong front bearing retainer causing the trans to be misaligned to the crank. I didn't find any metal shavings anywhere else.
Mike
You must also remember, that if the metal got to the rear bearing it also went through every gear, bearing, and even the synchronizers. Which has altered each and every piece. Take a magnifying glass and look at the gears, and see if you cant see superficial dents/ pitting,or graying, on the face of the teeth. While it shouldn't pose a real problem it can still be another source of the whine, or more likely a slightly noisy gear box. Loud pipes or just turn up the Stereo! Just my thoughts JTS
At least with my magnifying glass I could not see any pitting or dents. Second gear does have some grey spots within the shiny areas of tooth contact. I don't know what that means? Is that something to be concerned with? It was one of your items to look for. The countershaft gears look great compared to second and third gears on the main shaft. The engagement teeth on 1st, 2nd, and 3rd all have similar wear but still have nice sharp points. They show no indication of grinding and abuse from worn out blocker rings.
Why the huge price variation for replacement gears? For example, second or third replacement gear prices can be found in the $57-$67 price range, in the $100-$110 price range, and in the $150-$170 price range, and they all look the same? And regardless of price nobody specifies if they are imported or US made. I'd have to assume all are imported otherwise the high priced gears would be advertised as US made to help justify the higher cost.
Is it possible to post some pics of the gears with the grey spots? I would like to see what you are referring to. In regards to the pricing, I am unable to explain such variations. I never had to replace any of the gears, just the syncros, bearings, and other small parts that come with the rebuild kit.
The graying is evidence of the foreign material having gone between the gears, and turns the gear teeth gray instead of the normal polished mirror finish. Unless its severe, the graying won't hurt anything, and if the problems are corrected it should polish back out. But I wouldn't want to tear it back down after several thousand miles to see. LOL. A good rule of thumb. take you finger nail, run it across the area in question and rub it back and forth across it, if it's slightly rough feeling but still smooth that's about .001 thousandth. Virtually insignificant. if it feels like the surface of a record but is still relatively smooth, that's about .003 thousandths. If you can actually hook your fingernail on an edge and its rough, that's about .005 thousandths and things are not good. What you have is nothing to worry about, repair the damaged bearings, shafts, and put it back together. All will be fine. Once again remember I'm not there to inspect the parts, and diagnosing over the computer should be taken with a grain of salt. But I'd run it. Because it worked before you took it apart. If you replace what you know is damaged. Then you will be better off then when you started. Hope it helps JTS
Thanks for the information. I cannot feel anything with my thumbnail. I also hit the teeth lightly with some 1500 grit sand paper. That cleaned up some of the discoloration a little.
FYI, I found more of the same metal shavings in the drain pan of solvent I was using to clean parts. I thought I had it all.
Mike
It's amazing how far the shavings can migrate, and you can wipe it clean till your blue in the face, and you'll never get it clean. Got to use solvent or steam cleaning to get it all. Don't forget to look behind any edges or bumps in the casing itself cause the shavings will collect behind any edge they can find. JTS
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