Rebuild engine beter performance 2v heads

[JTS71 Mach1]

Thanks guys :-)

The plan is to use the block, and the crankshaft and rods. Everything will be brand new. Its standard bore I think, I found the screw for the distributior it was broken off :-)

Any ideas how to remove the distributor? Its really stuck..

Best regards Rob

Break it into pieces and remove the chunks. JTS 71 Mach1

[Steven Harris]

Those really stuck ones usually come out in pieces but you can try some normal remedies first: soak it in some type of penetrating oil, tap on the base repeatedly, use large pliers or a pipe wrench to twist it, etc.

[RobSweden]

Okay thanks, I will remove the tray tonight to see how it looks inside



Uuuuuh ...

But after some cleaning with a rag... actually 2 pistons moved





Best regards Rob

[1969_Mach1]

It's already looking better. I think there was another thread in this forum of somebody removing a stuck distributor. In the end, after soaking and soaking it took brute force to loosen it.

Block, crank and rods are about the only parts of the short block most people reuse during a rebuild. And today, very often a new crank and new rods are installed as opposed to regrinding the crank and resizing the rods. Unless something unforeseen pops up, I suspect the parts you are reusing will be in good rebuildable condition.

Regards,
Mike

[RobSweden]

Hi
I got Everything out of the block, but Im worried is there a missing piece of metal/crack in the block where the distribuitor comes in ?





Best regards Rob

[1969_Mach1]

It's hard to see in the picture. I see a big opening that looks normal so there is room for the distributor gear. Then I see a small piece missing where the distributor shaft is supported by the block. Are you referring to where the distributor gear gently contacts the block, and where the distributor shaft is supported by the block? That might be an issue. I would be concerned with that. Maybe some other Cleveland people will chime in with what is normal on a Cleveland.

Did it brake when trying to remove the distributor, or does it look like an old break?

Regards,
Mike

[RobSweden]

Hi
For what I know, I didnt see anything break. But the edges are rough like something is missing there. I really hope the block works, can you weld something like that ?

Regards Rob

[1969_Mach1]

I tried to circle the area that looks like a piece may have broke off. Hopefully somebody else will know if that is normal on a Cleveland. The rest of it looks normal to me.

Regards,
Mike

[RobSweden]

Exactlly the spot I was thinking about Thanks.

Best regards Rob

[Mister 4x4]

Yes, boring sixty thousands over is a risky proposition and most only recommend a maximum of thirty. Mister 4X4 bored out of necessity to use his block (it needed sixty over to clean up).

I ran a sixty over back in my high school days and yes it had a tendency to run warmer but would not overheat.

As Mike has posted, boring is of necessity to clean the cylinder walls. The significant power gain in displacement is in stroking.

The basic rule is to bore only if needed and then the very minimum amount needed.

Correct, Steve. The machine shop would've only had to go .020" except for the two seized pistons were in there so long and left scars after coming out. .040" didn't get it all either, so .060" was what it took. They asked if I wanted to sleeve them instead, but I didn't know much about that, so I said go with .060" - they wouldn't make pistons and rings so readily available if it was such a bad thing, right? If I ever have to rebuild it again, I'll sleeve the whole thing and go with standard bores... or something. We'll see. I'm not a racer, so it'll be fine.

Speaking of running warmer - I noticed it was running warm (needle between the "A" & "L" of "NORMAL" on the gauge) a few weekends ago, and decided to try the "Pantera Thermostat Bypass Restrictor Plate" trick - worked like a champ. The temp gauge isn't moving over 1/3 now (between the "O" & "R").

http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/water...attribs=82



Replace the plate on the right with the one on the left and run a 185* Windsor thermostat (which is what O'Reilly Auto Parts had given me anyway, rather than an actual Cleveland thermostat...) - so, the wrong (non-Cleveland) thermostat and basically non-functional bypass system wasn't allowing coolant to leave the engine and circulate through the radiator. They say it'll take a little bit longer to warm up, but Hey - summer time in West Texas has the car almost there just sittin' in the sun.