Rebuild engine beter performance 2v heads
#21
Mister 4X4, Real glad we are not in a poo fight!! +1 on the 'reading comprehension' in the small hours. I often put up posts from work in the EARLY morning - re-read it later and wonder what I was thinking!! Blush
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#22
(07-12-2015, 07:56 AM)Mister 4x4 Wrote: [*] .060" bores w/9.5:1 Keith Black hypereutectic flat-top pistons

Hi I was thinking about the 0.6 bore. From what Ive read the cylinder wall are very thin, and bores more then 0.3 is not recomended. Anything to worry about ?

Best regards Rob

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#23
Actually, it's best to never bore the cylinders more than is required. An overbore more than 0.030" is not recommended for small block Fords for the reason you mentioned, the cylinder walls are thin. Its really not worth the risk of hot engine running temps and cylinder wall cracking. The cubic inch displacement and power increase you get from boring a motor is minimal. About 5 cubic inches for 0.030" overbore on a 351 based motor. If you want more cubic inches and significant power increases from the motor look into stroking the motor. The least expensive time to stroke a motor is during the rebuild as apposed to later after a rebuild. During a rebuild the only additional parts needed would be connecting rods and crankshaft as opposed to regrinding and resizing the originals. A stroker motor needs different pistons but you already need new pistons for the rebuild. And for some stroked combinations you might be able to use the stock connecting rods. On a Cleveland I would the think the stock cylinder heads could handle larger cubic inch motors. There are more Cleveland people here and are more knowledgeable than I am with Clevalands. Somebody will probably chime in with more information on stroking Cleveland motors.

Regards,
Mike
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#24
Yes, boring sixty thousands over is a risky proposition and most only recommend a maximum of thirty. Mister 4X4 bored out of necessity to use his block (it needed sixty over to clean up).

I ran a sixty over back in my high school days and yes it had a tendency to run warmer but would not overheat.

As Mike has posted, boring is of necessity to clean the cylinder walls. The significant power gain in displacement is in stroking.

The basic rule is to bore only if needed and then the very minimum amount needed.
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#25
Thanks again great answers.

When I have the Engine apart, the machine workshop will probably give some recomendations. They have been in business for 50 years or so.

Best regards Rob
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#26
Yeah I'm sure the shop will have recommendations. And after 50 years of business they must be doing something right. I would suggest doing your own homework as well. Too often people rely on the shops expertise then later find out they paid too much for low grade parts, or, for only a few dollars more got better quality parts, or, just simply left some power on the table because the parts combination was mismatched, and on and on.

Also, try to obtain a little knowledge of the machining operations involved. Things like, do they torque plate hone the block and if so they should want the head bolts that will be used in the final assembly? How do they resurface the block deck and heads? When they surface the block deck do they also square the block or simply clean up the deck surface? Do they replace worn valve guides or knurl the old guides or install liners? When they balance rotating assemblies, what tolerance to they use? For example + or - 1/4 gram is a very well balance rotating assembly. There are definitely more than one method for the different machining operations. The less expensive shops will cut corners on the machining operations. The end results make a difference and usually the cost difference is minimal.

My point is it helps to understand the parts being used and the machining operations for the rebuild.

Regards,
Mike
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#27
Music 
Hi

After months of searching for a 351c to rebuild beside my Engine in the car i found this.
It came from a pick up truck, I was told that I run a few months ago but when I opened it, I doubt it. It stuck, I sprayed wd40 in the cylinders and I Think I will put some diesel there to. The distribuitor is stuck, but there is no retaning screw that holds it. There is not even a hole for the screw ?
What do you thing can it be used, or should I let it go ? The heads seems pretty okay, no Picture for now.

Best regards Rob

[Image: engine1.jpg]
[Image: engine2.jpg]
[Image: engine3.jpg]
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#28
Yuck it sure ain't very pretty. Unless you intend to go the full rebuild route, down to the last nut and bolt. I would probably pass this one up. It appears to have been treated pretty roughly, and then not had anything done to preserve it, like put a cover over it to keep the rain off. That grayish looking sludge is oil mixed with water, definitely not what you want to find in you engine. On top of that it has the lower compression dished pistons "swimming pools" and those are definitely not for a performance rebuild, unless you plan on super charging it. Just some thoughts. JTS 71 Mach1
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#29
It can easily be rebuilt if the cylinders are not too pitted from rust. Rust pits in the cylinders is what usually ruins a motor that has been sitting a long time. I've rebuilt motors where a piston breaks trying to get it out.

Is it still standard bore? That would be a plus.

You truly cannot tell the condition until it is disassembled and cleaned. All the grease and grime can make it look worse than it is. You'd be surprised how clean and new that old block will look after a machine shop cleans it. The shop I use cleans them in an oven. Then runs them through a tumbler that blasts the block with I think lead shot to remove any rust. Lastly a spray jet washer to wash away any media from the tumbler. They come out looking like new cast iron. After machining they of course get washed again in a spray jet washer.

I had a Dodge 318 motor look like your 351C and also stuck after sitting complete with an air cleaner installed, but outside, for about 6 months. It was running fine before that. So it doesn't take long depending on how it is stored. I wouldn't give up on this 351C yet.

FYI: I've heard of people using ATF in the cylinders of a stuck motor.

Regards,
Mike
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#30
Thanks guys :-)

The plan is to use the block, and the crankshaft and rods. Everything will be brand new. Its standard bore I think, I found the screw for the distributior it was broken off :-)

Any ideas how to remove the distributor? Its really stuck..

Best regards Rob
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