04-06-2015, 02:34 AM
Our Classic Fords have the first generation of alternator (1G). The 2G and 3G alternators have the voltage regulator in the back of the alternator. You could remove the regulator and those 4 wires!
I was at the pick-apart yard and spotted a newly rebuilt 2G alternator, nice and clean, the tag says 75 amps. The only thing different about it is the pulley is for a flat serpentine belt. I brought it home, and changed the pulley with an impact. It is a direct fit , and it went right on to my 1973 Ford f-250. (We will get to the Mach 1 soon).
The voltage regulator and the wiring came out. Now the headlights are brighter at idle. The 2G looks almost stock, the plug in connector is different, but is under the hose. But, the plug in connector can be a problem. They get dirty or corroded and heat up and can even start on fire. I have a new connector, and so far everything is cool.
For the Mach 1 , I wanted to try the 3G alternator. They come in 100 amp and 130 amp versions, they usually have a sticker, and the 130 amp has a bigger case. So back I go to the salvage yard, and get a 3G alternator. Changing the pulley had a small glitch. The 3G pulley is offset about 1/8 inch. What you need to do, is take your v-groove pulley, and put the lockwasher under the pulley, on the 3G. There it is, offset. Next, the adjustment arm that you use to tighten the belt needs to be about an inch longer, when using the larger case . I welded a bit of steel to the end and drilled a hole, easy. This is not a one wire alternator, you need to hook up 12 volt key-on, that went to the voltage regulator, and hook it to the green wire on the back of the alternator. The charge cable and yellow battery sense wire hook to your battery or starter solenoid.
I was at the pick-apart yard and spotted a newly rebuilt 2G alternator, nice and clean, the tag says 75 amps. The only thing different about it is the pulley is for a flat serpentine belt. I brought it home, and changed the pulley with an impact. It is a direct fit , and it went right on to my 1973 Ford f-250. (We will get to the Mach 1 soon).
The voltage regulator and the wiring came out. Now the headlights are brighter at idle. The 2G looks almost stock, the plug in connector is different, but is under the hose. But, the plug in connector can be a problem. They get dirty or corroded and heat up and can even start on fire. I have a new connector, and so far everything is cool.
For the Mach 1 , I wanted to try the 3G alternator. They come in 100 amp and 130 amp versions, they usually have a sticker, and the 130 amp has a bigger case. So back I go to the salvage yard, and get a 3G alternator. Changing the pulley had a small glitch. The 3G pulley is offset about 1/8 inch. What you need to do, is take your v-groove pulley, and put the lockwasher under the pulley, on the 3G. There it is, offset. Next, the adjustment arm that you use to tighten the belt needs to be about an inch longer, when using the larger case . I welded a bit of steel to the end and drilled a hole, easy. This is not a one wire alternator, you need to hook up 12 volt key-on, that went to the voltage regulator, and hook it to the green wire on the back of the alternator. The charge cable and yellow battery sense wire hook to your battery or starter solenoid.