1969 Mach 1 Pictures

[Mister 4x4]

The DSO code on the door indicates "Lansing, Michigan." I bought it from a wannabe muscle car flipper, who found it in Wichita Falls, TX - it even had a Sheppard AFB sticker on the bumper (which tells me it probably lived in Michigan for awhile before the owner was assigned to Sheppard AFB... and makes sense for all the rust). He had "Gas Monkey Garage" aspirations, but once I pointed out what a turd it was, I got it pretty much for his cost including transporting it.

Thanks for checking it all out - it was a major PITA, but at least I know every nut, bolt, weld, and piece of sheet metal has been taken care of... so it should last the rest of my life. That's the plan, anyway - there's no way I'd even get close to getting my money back if I were to lose my mind and sell it someday. H-codes just don't have the collector's value of the other more 'desirable' C-, J-, M-, and Q-codes, after all (let alone the R-code Boss 351s).

[Mustangmike]

- there's no way I'd even get close to getting my money back if I were to lose my mind and sell it someday. H-codes just don't have the collector's value of the other more 'desirable' C-, J-, M-, and Q-codes, after all (let alone the R-code Boss 351s).

Don't cut yourself short on simple letters. Coming down the production line those cars didn't know if they were going to be 6 or 8 cylinder, Shelby's or the Boss. Those cars our often purchased by collectors. The average buyer doesn't have that much money or doesn't want to spend that much money.

My theory is to build the most car for the least amount of money. I guess I am just an average Joe!

[Steven Harris]

Exactly.

Sure I would or purchased a Boss 351 given the opportunity but they are way out of my price range.

I did originally purchase a "Q" code but sold it to buy my "H" code. The Q code was rusted, dented and without any drivetrain. My H code is rust and dent free and complete.

My thought was that I could easily make it run better than the Q code or even the R codes of the day and not have near as much invested nor the fear of taking it out and using it.

I figure mine will have Hoss 351 graphics!

[1969_Mach1]

I don't know what the big deal is about 2 and 4 barrel, H and M codes. Today, most unrested H code cars are in better condition than M code cars. Yeah, the M codes are a little more desirable. But its more the collectors have the finances to pay more, than what the car is that has driven up the cost of the M code and more rare stuff. Thirty years ago, this was more a poor mans hobby. I recall, my older brothers first 1969 Mach 1 back in 1980 cost $3200. And it was an M code, fresh repaint, in great running driving almost 100% original condition.

Today, I've always liked Mach 1's, but I only got mine by means of an unfortunate inheritance. And my brother got it cheap because the previous owner's wife wouldn't let him bring home more toys without cleaning up the yard.

[Dave R.]

Thanks for the positive feedback. Like anything else, its not without flaws. But it represents many years of doing things over and over until I am satisfied. I continue to tinker with it. But now its more preservation, such as making certain the brake hydraulics are in good order.

I've tossed around repainting the black a satin black, closer to the original. But I know, and like the painter told me, I'd eventually be fighting a chalky finish on it without a clear coat paint system.

Best Regards,
Mike

As I understand, my painter used gloss black paint on the hood and cowl with a flattening agent in the clear coat to dull the gloss. The whole car was painted as a base coat/clear coat about 4 months ago. The paint manufacturers have formulas for such a procedure. Dave R.

[1969_Mach1]

Dave R., I'm sure I'll leave the gloss black it as is. If for some reason the hood ever needs repaint I might try a satin or semi-gloss finish. I'm not fond of the full flat finish they originally had.

I've only seen a couple cars during the paint process with the two stage urethane system like yours. Each time the base coat was flat and the clear determined how glossy or flat the final finish was.

Best Regards,
Mike

[noroz]

Man shes loaded with options
looks nice I woulnt worry about the hood as it needs a little black, gloss albeit, to accent the light color. I am doing my hood in satin polyurethane, only because the whole car has been repainted, I put out some pics latter if it looks alright.

[1969_Mach1]

You're right about the light color being accented with the gloss black. I never thought about that aspect. Mister 4x4's silver 71 also has gloss black on the hood and combination on his looks good as well. Other than the chalking of non-clear coat flat blacks, maybe that's partly why the painter was so insistent on the gloss black.

Best Regards,
Mike

[Mach1FatherFigure]

That is a jaw dropper! BTW correctly applied flat black can be waxed - it just does not shine. It can be masked off and sprayed with flat finish clear. Again no shine with wax.

[BillC51x]

Great Looking Car!!! Continued success and enjoy the ride.. We just love the look of the 69 & 70 Mach1's..

Best Regards,
BillC51x