I just talked to the wife and she got me the vin#3F05Q254XXX for my car. On the 15th I am going to order the marti report for it. I am pretty excited to see what the options were on the car. I did do my research and found out that louvers were simply an aftermarket thing. I am kinda sad that it wasn't a factory option. I am still keeping my louvers on the car ( I personally love them). I have seen a lot of guys hoping for a late production serial# car. I am just curious if its worth more or people just like the fact that is was one of the last produced. I know mine is not even close to the end considering I saw another person's marti report and his was 163XXX off the line, mine being only 154XXX. Is there any options on that year that stand out as unique? I will post my report on here once I get it. Thanks, David
My car is 221216 and was built on April 19, 1973 which leaves a lot of time till the production run end. There is no more value in a later production than in a early or mid production. Condition and options are crucial for value.
Two options that make your Mach 1 more valuable than others. #1 - It is a Q code and #2 - it is in your hands. "A Mach 1 in hand is worth more than any in the bush!"
The Marti report will help you know exactly how your car came from the factory and then you can add as you like.
Thanks for the great words Steven! I should get my marti report any day now
Decided to go with the 71-72 stripes for my car. I have been talking to a gentleman near nashville that said he could paint my car for 3500$. He showed me some of his portfolio. His shop works on collisions and partial/full-body paint jobs. Hopefully everything said and done it should be right at $4000 or less. Would it be wise to get the stripes painted instead of a stripe kit?
(11-22-2012, 10:10 AM)armyfox Wrote: Would it be wise to get the stripes painted instead of a stripe kit?
I wouldn't begin to answer as a professional paint or car collector. From my point of view it's a matter of personal preference - I have done both.
Painted on has a bragging rights of "Yeah, those are painted on" but does it matter, the factory are a stripe kit.
Who doesn't like the hockey stripe but if you didn't and they were "just" a stripe kit you could always take them off as long as it hasn't been so long that they leave a fade mark.
Regarding the paint job golden glow yellow & black accents are one of the all time great Mach1 color schemes. If you plan on sticking with the 73 side stripes, it shouldn't be too hard for a pro painter to do. They are a pretty straight forward design. The 71-72 stripes might be easier to go with the tape stripe kit. I've heard of alot of different ways to get the "flat" black hood painted. Anything from flattening agents, to flat clearcoat (in a base coat clear coat system), too using black primer. Some guys just skip all that and paint it gloss black. Whatever you decide make sure to apply sealer to the flat paint or it will oxidize. As far as vehicle production # affecting value, I believe that in 71 and 72 the Boss 351 and H.O.s were partial year runs so the production # could be a factor in authenticating these cars. The only other scenario is that if I'm not mistaken some early 71 or 72 Mach 1s only had ram-air available on 2 barrel Cleveland's. Again I think this was a partial year issue and production # could be a factor in authentification. That kind of minutia usually only matters to extreme purists & the Barrett Jackson crowd.
I hope this helps, stay safe,
Keith
Came across this today. The wife has been wanting a 65-66 coupe that is teal for a while. She doesnt care whether it is a V8 car or not, but she does want a manual for sure (unfortunately its an automatic). I found this car and it seems reasonable on the price. I told her after I talked to the person if they would take $2500 she could go get the car and park it in the garage till I get home. Asking for opinion whether it seems like a good deal. I am already going to ask more into where any other rust is besides the quarters. That is the main thing I am interested in. I plan on keeping it 6 cylinder for its life, unless the motor just blows up. Tell me what you think. Thanks!
(11-25-2012, 05:59 AM)armyfox Wrote: Thanks for the advice and info Steven & Keith.
Came across this today. The wife has been wanting a 65-66 coupe that is teal for a while. She doesnt care whether it is a V8 car or not, but she does want a manual for sure (unfortunately its an automatic). I found this car and it seems reasonable on the price. I told her after I talked to the person if they would take $2500 she could go get the car and park it in the garage till I get home. Asking for opinion whether it seems like a good deal. I am already going to ask more into where any other rust is besides the quarters. That is the main thing I am interested in. I plan on keeping it 6 cylinder for its life, unless the motor just blows up. Tell me what you think. Thanks!
Based on the 65/66's I've seen for sale here in Virginia looks like a good deal for $3k unless the rust is a lot more severe that showing in the pics. The interior look pretty nice.
The price for a clean coupe (as this appears to be) should be closer to $3,000-$3500 so in my opinion it's a great price. While your checking for signs of rust repair, be sure to check the end of the rear frame rails, right where the leaf spring shackles bolt on. This area is notorious for rusting, I've seen cars that look pretty good but have substantial rust in this area. I even had a friend who's dad had a 65 that rode low in the rear. Upon opening the trunk, there were the shackles! Having pushed past the rusted out frame and were now living in the trunk. There is of course repair frame sections available. It's just a matter of wanting to do the extra work (or pay to have it done). If you have a 110 volt mig, set the heat to maximum and the wire speed to a slow setting. At least you don't have to worry about warping the metal, as with outer-body panels.
Bye the way I love the Teal color and that six cylinder (if it's the 200 c.i.d. sprint) will perform very nicely and get good reliable gas mileage.
Good Luck,
Keith
Looks like a nice coupe and from the pictures it looks as though the owner is trying to present the car honestly. The price is right and the car is clean. As for the automatic verse the standard that is wanted - no big deal for the 65/66 to changeover to a T-5. With the T-5 and that little six both performance and economy will be appreciated.
You said your wife wants a manual trans. Steven is right about a t-5 being an easy bolt in but you have to consider the cost of the transplant. A good t-5 will cost $350-$600. The install kit to make the existing clutch pedal work is about $150. I haven't seen a pre-fabbed cross member for a 6 cyl. You might have to make one your self. the existing clutch and bell housing should work.
Good luck and keep an eye open for a deal on a t-5!
Keith
of alot of different ways to get the "flat" black hood painted. Anything from flattening agents, to flat clearcoat (in a base coat clear coat system), too using black primer. Some guys just skip all that and paint it gloss black. Whatever you decide make sure to apply sealer to the flat paint or it will oxidize. As far as vehicle production # affecting value, I believe that in 71 and 72 the Boss 351 and H.O.s were partial year runs so the production # could be a factor in authenticating these cars. The only other scenario is that if I'm not mistaken some early 71 or 72 Mach 1s only had ram-air available on 2 barrel Cleveland's. Again I think this was a partial year issue and production # could be a factor in authentification. That kind of minutia usually only matters to extreme purists & the Barrett Jackson crowd.
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