How to remove a stripped or broken bolt, nut, or stud
#1
I don't know if it's on here or not so I will just throw this out there. I am no master mechanic, but I am an average Joe who is not afraid to turn a wrench. It's nothing but nuts and bolts right? Well that is until that damn nut, bolt or stud strips or even breaks. I ran into this problem with my wife's 2001 Mustang Gt while replacing the transmission this week. As I first tried to unbolt the exhaust, I broke the stud at the manifold (obviously did not use enough heat before attempting to remove it), then on the other side I stripped out the worn out nut. First I tried pounding a smaller socket on it and eventually it went from a 15mm to a 13mm with no luck. I started researching how to get out stripped bolts and found all sorts of ideas. I didn't realize how many extractors there were out there. I had a general idea of what would work and actually found a tool that made sense so I figured I would share it with all of you. It is called the Craftsman Bolt Out. It is a great design and seems to hold up great to alot of pressure as I noticed trying to get another stripped bolt from the top of the bellhousing out (using a wrench with a bar on the end and alot of muscle. It stayed locked on the bolt and didn't slip off once. Maybe everyone already knows about this great tool but I sure would have liked to know about it years ago! It costs $25 for the 3/8" set and case, and another $20 for the 1/2" set which has a place to be stored in the 3/8" case. They should have just sold it as a complete set but for $45 it was one of the best investments in my tool box.
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#2
Thanks for the heads up.

I have never used one either and just went to have a look. Here is what I found.


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#3
Yup... thats the one! The additional 1/2" drive set also stores in that case. I was very impressed on how well it actually worked. The nice part about it is that it can be used with either a ratchet or a wrench for those tight areas.
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#4
Using a 6 point socket to start with helps too, and PB blaster
A set of reverse drill bits come in handy also.
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#5
(03-26-2012, 12:58 PM)don29163 Wrote: Using a 6 point socket to start with helps too, and PB blaster
A set of reverse drill bits come in handy also.

LOL!!! Yeah that helps too, but there are people who don't work on cars everyday (myself included) that do not have every tool imagineable. This was just something I found that worked great for me and thought I would share because some people helped me on this site last week! Sometimes bolts are already prestripped from the last owner too.
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#6
The tested best rust penetrator is (I kid you not) 50/50 ATF and acetone. Google it if you like. That mix is better than just about everything else and cheap as.
Vinegar can work if you are out of your shop and milk can double for brake fluid to get you home.
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#7
50/50 ATF and acetone is a new one to me but it makes obvious sense.

I will give it a try. Thanks for the tip.
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#8
ATF and acetone also make sense to me. Although milk may work as a temporary brake fluid, I am not quite sold on it as a roadside repair. In this case I am resorting to my AAA or Hagerty roadside plan I've been paying for!
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#9
In the African jungle we had to resort a few times to a water with liquid soap (the soap raises the boiling temperature) mixture to get us back to "civilization".
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#10
(09-29-2014, 02:14 AM)Steven Harris Wrote: In the African jungle we had to resort a few times to a water with liquid soap (the soap raises the boiling temperature) mixture to get us back to "civilization".

That is pretty amazing...would not have even thought of water and soap let along milk. Well, I guess if you gotta you gotta. Plus I don't think AAA will be there for me in jungles of Africa 578254

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