06-06-2011, 02:45 PM
hi folks,
this is going to be a lot of work because i have a restoration thread of my 351B in german so i have to translate evrything in english. i'll be posting A LOT of pictures so i hope you're ok with that.
to my boss. this car was made for export to switzerland in 1970. according to my research around 9 cars were exported to CH but i haven't had the chance to contact kevin marti to be 100% sure. i know for a fact that this is the only one in austria.
-) 3,91:1 rear axle
-) staggered shocks
-) 351 cleveland 4 bolt high output engine 11,7:1 = 330PS
-) 4 gang toaploader
-) fold down group
-) rear defrost
-) center console
-) power steering
p.s. this is how the car will look like when it's done:
here a picture of my vert:
here are a few impressions of the car when i bought it.
beautiful :-)
deluxe interior
the soda blasted bolt on parts
a few pictures of the problem areas
the front part is all solid!
here we have a few images when i picked the car up from CH. since it was disassembled i had to stuff a lot of things into my VW bus.
all the bolt on things were soda blasted and to tell you the truth I#ve never seen such perfect doors herein europe!
i started to disassemble the engine and was positvely surprised on which state it was in. the block was bored to 0.030 and everything was basically NEW. so all i had to do is reseal it and paint the engine :-).
that's it for now. more to come.
abudi
i check the main bearings on the engine and as you can see everything is perfect. the crankshaft is in spotless condition. i guess i was very lucky.
even the engine mounts are ford NOS.
on we go with the emminger invoice
on we go with the restoration. my neighbor eddie is the one helping me with the welding work.
since this boss never had a radio the antenna hole has to go
grinding the welding work down
tinning paste
heating it up
applying the tinn
let it cool off
i don't know what this is called in english SORRY.
closing a few little holes on the doors
this is a puller in case you can't access the dent from the other side.
you weld a spot onto the dent and then you pull it out.
the rest is done with a hammer and tinn
there were a few dents in the oil pan that had to be removed :-)
on we go with a few more welding pichtures.
here are a few pictures before and after.
before
after the media blasting work
hi guys,
here i have a few impressions while i was getting the engine ready..
i painted the engine with por15 engine enamel
the soda blasted valve covers
NOS oil pan seal :-D
new timing chain
almost done
the original 4300D autolite carb
original boss intake
original ram air plenum painted
more to come
i started closing up the engine and here are a few pictures.
timing chain is A-Ok so on goes the seal
looking good
on goes the intake
getting the torque right 3/8 = 28-32 ft/lb
i found the correct distributor for my boss engine. cost a fortune though.
NOS base plate
more to come
abudi
we moved on to the door etc. all bare metal parts were epoxy primed
after the primer was dry
here a few close ups of the 4300D carb and of the "almost" finished engine:
more to come
hallo folks,
the original crankshaft wasn't in the engine but i was told that the 4MA cranks are the same.
one we go with the pre lubrication of the engine :-)
oil pan bolted onto the engine block
out goes the distributor and in goes the bit that drives the oil pump
counter clock wise and away we went as long as the battery lasted
distributor back into the engine and we were ready for the fire up
abudi
here i have a few close ups of the distibutor
as you can see i am using the pertronix ignition solution. i've been doing that with all my mustangs and never had any trouble.
as you can see not much rust is in this boss.
this area was a little rusty bit nothing really serious.
the seats are in great condition which means they don't need to be recovered
the P/O gave me 4 door panels, so luckily i was able to refabricate 2 good ones out of the 4.
lots of parts that i still have to go thru
took the rear window out only to find "almost" no rust :-)
the headliner will be replaced
abudi
here's how i restored the 2 door panels.
the 73er deluxe panel
the old beat up ones
before cleaning
after a good wash
after cleaning the carpet area
new glue
original molding after using never dull :-)
the original handel
the original cup moldings
put in the wood applications and carefully bend the catches back...try not to break them
i used vaseline to preserve the panels. vaseline make the plastic softer.
here are a few pictures of the rear seat. as you can see the rear seat was used from 69-73
here the seat tag from 1970
my boss was built in 24 november 1970
abudi
yes LOTs of work!!
while disassembling the car i was amazed how good this car was. i took a lot of pictures not only to know where what goes but also to show how assembly was done back then...rather fast and sloppy.
here are a few impressions
before
kick panel area driver side
behind the dash...
behind the steering wheel
vent area driver side....not even surface rust
here without the box
original as if it came off the assembly line yesterday
all original stamping
rust area
abudi
i moved on by removing the toploader, fuel tank, headliner, chrome molding, brake lines, fuel line, shock absorbers and so on. none of the bolts ore screws broke or were damaged. i was so amazed how good this 71 mustang was! a few rust problems did show up but nothing really serious. the rear panel and the wheel moldings needed some attention, but that was about it.
rust problem: the wheel area
the original rear bumper
brakes A-OK
the toploader...only thing missing was the tag...found that thru the german forum :-)
here's a picture of the torque box
the front suspension area
a few more pictures of the under carriage
the rear axle that was on the car wasn't the original 3,91:1 axle but i found the original in switzerland
these are the parts that need to be restored
New rear panel
a few more pictures of the interior
this is really alot of work!!
abudi
rust issues:
both rear wheel houses and the rear panel...that it :-)
here a few more impressions of the disassembled boss.
getting the right color for the under carriage
chocolate brown
out goes the front suspension
i've never seen this before on any of my mustangs. this spring was hooked onto the floor and was used to keep the parking brke cable straight. :-)
this is the 3L25 (3,25:1) rear axle. the original 3L91 (3,91:1) is in stock now :-)
untouched under carriage. never welded or molested :-)
federal law in switzerland states that the entire VIN number hat to be visible within the engine bay.
the swiss vin was located right next to the original ford VIN number under the right fender
the naked boss
abudi
I've been working on the boss for around 1 year now and the stuff i posted was the work of 2 months....so there's more to come.
stay tuned
abudi
i work on my project using the chaos theory.
up next were smaller repairs because the weather was too cold to work in the garage.
the original collapsible tire repainted
the drive shaft repainted...the correct marking are to fellow
dash before
sanded down
repainted in matt black
since the weather was so cold i started on smaller things that i could take home.
here's a step by step thread on how to overhaul a power steering pump
reassembled and back on the engine
abudi
a friend and i put the boss on a moveable rack
we used an engine crane to lift the rear of the car
using a 4x4 works fine :-) as you can see
coo huh
the boss on mini wheels :-D
abudi
my original flywheel was missing so i called up perogie and randy had one on his shelf :-)
up next is the recovering of the fold down elements
it took me around 4 hours with a few beer breaks :-)
new carpets, the refurbished chrome molding and the painted fold down parts
glue and the electric screw driver
double sided tape works pretty good too
finished
abudi
i'm always looking for 71-73 parts.
as a matter of fact, i have a 75 dipstick in my boss and i'd love to have a 71 number in it. i mean it works perfectly fine but i'm trying to staying as original as possible.
up next were smaller parts like the hinges and latches. they were media blasted and painted in iron cast...that's a little darker than the original.
the collapsible tire is nothing really new for you guys in the US, but here in austria NO ONE knows this. here i'm posting a few pictures of the tire inflation...had to know if it works or not.
without air
half full here you can see how the tire wanders up :-)
fully inflated
didn't forget the warning decal
last but not least the inflator
abudi
it's always the little things that waist your time. well here's a perfect example:
before
after
the hinge springs for the ram air hood were "square" :-)
painted wiper arms and speaker grill
abudi
this could be interesting for some. i wanted to keep the original gas tank and since it was busted anyway eddie and i tried saving it.
but before we started that i finished the dash
before
after paint
with gauges and clusters
now to the fuel tank: DON'T try this if you haven't done this before. the fumes in the tank can blow up in your face!!
we welded big nails onto the dent and then pulled it out.
after...looks like new :-)
lets carry on with the rear axle
after the axle was media blasted i painted it with POR15
out goes the old fishy smelling oil
i painted the diff in primer red
seal area nice and clean
sealer before the paper seal goes on
felpro seal
that diff is soo heavy!
new bearing seals
i knocked them in with a big nut
installed
the new oil. if you have a locked axle don't forget the additive!!!
reassembly of the rear brakes
all new springs
new SS brake lines and parking brake cable
last but not least the original tag
up next will be the welding work
abudi
before starting up with the actual welding work on the wheel housing we took out the front window.
we fiddled a wire between the fame and the window and cut it out by moving the wire back and forth
simply push the window forward and out goes the windschield
easy does it
up next was the center console. it's amazing how many parts you have to refurbish when you restore a car.
center console before:
clock before
cleaned and lubed
reassembly of the center console
new paint job
after that i put the boss balancer back onto the engine
rebuilt the air cleaner
original filter
ready for the engine....
tattttaaa
finding that heat shield and heater riser tube was really hard.
up next was the toploader
hurst shifter beautiful
just hat to clean the linkage
the hurt shifter handle
the top loader before
more to come soon
abudi
now to the top loader
cleaning took around 4 hours what a pain in the ass
original seal kit
the tail housing had a leak and this is why
grinding the bad welding work down
this is liquid metal that is heat and pressure resistant
from the outside
and inside
let it dry for 30 minutes
and on goes the sanding
almost done
resurfaced
and painted in iron cast
the bell housing should have been blue i know. i liked it better in cast iron
no i didn't forget that :-)
the 40 year old paper seal :-)
this seal was rock hard
in goes the new one
the front paper seal with silicone
back in place
tail housing
new paper seal with silicone to be on the safe side
tail housing with the new real seal
one last look into the tranny
before paint
done
with hurst shifter "bone" and the dust boot. btw you can use the dust boot from the 70 top loaders as well
the boss linkage is gold from what i have researched :-)
pre lubed gears
detailing the engine
i hope that's enough for now :-D
abudi
let the welding begin
i'll let the pictures speak for themselves
this is the most tedious work i can image
it's a dirty job but someone's got to do it
bye bye rust :-)
as you can see we had some fun too :-)
let the tinning begin
tinning ingredients
looks good huh
et voilà ....
abudi
here are a few more pictures of the welding and tinning work.
before tinning
after
don't be greedy with the tin
after
the side panel tinning
sanding with 80 paper
now the car can go and get sand blasted
more pics to come
abudi
this is going to be a lot of work because i have a restoration thread of my 351B in german so i have to translate evrything in english. i'll be posting A LOT of pictures so i hope you're ok with that.
to my boss. this car was made for export to switzerland in 1970. according to my research around 9 cars were exported to CH but i haven't had the chance to contact kevin marti to be 100% sure. i know for a fact that this is the only one in austria.
-) 3,91:1 rear axle
-) staggered shocks
-) 351 cleveland 4 bolt high output engine 11,7:1 = 330PS
-) 4 gang toaploader
-) fold down group
-) rear defrost
-) center console
-) power steering
p.s. this is how the car will look like when it's done:
here a picture of my vert:
here are a few impressions of the car when i bought it.
beautiful :-)
deluxe interior
the soda blasted bolt on parts
a few pictures of the problem areas
the front part is all solid!
here we have a few images when i picked the car up from CH. since it was disassembled i had to stuff a lot of things into my VW bus.
all the bolt on things were soda blasted and to tell you the truth I#ve never seen such perfect doors herein europe!
i started to disassemble the engine and was positvely surprised on which state it was in. the block was bored to 0.030 and everything was basically NEW. so all i had to do is reseal it and paint the engine :-).
that's it for now. more to come.
abudi
i check the main bearings on the engine and as you can see everything is perfect. the crankshaft is in spotless condition. i guess i was very lucky.
even the engine mounts are ford NOS.
on we go with the emminger invoice
on we go with the restoration. my neighbor eddie is the one helping me with the welding work.
since this boss never had a radio the antenna hole has to go
grinding the welding work down
tinning paste
heating it up
applying the tinn
let it cool off
i don't know what this is called in english SORRY.
closing a few little holes on the doors
this is a puller in case you can't access the dent from the other side.
you weld a spot onto the dent and then you pull it out.
the rest is done with a hammer and tinn
there were a few dents in the oil pan that had to be removed :-)
on we go with a few more welding pichtures.
here are a few pictures before and after.
before
after the media blasting work
hi guys,
here i have a few impressions while i was getting the engine ready..
i painted the engine with por15 engine enamel
the soda blasted valve covers
NOS oil pan seal :-D
new timing chain
almost done
the original 4300D autolite carb
original boss intake
original ram air plenum painted
more to come
i started closing up the engine and here are a few pictures.
timing chain is A-Ok so on goes the seal
looking good
on goes the intake
getting the torque right 3/8 = 28-32 ft/lb
i found the correct distributor for my boss engine. cost a fortune though.
NOS base plate
more to come
abudi
we moved on to the door etc. all bare metal parts were epoxy primed
after the primer was dry
here a few close ups of the 4300D carb and of the "almost" finished engine:
more to come
hallo folks,
the original crankshaft wasn't in the engine but i was told that the 4MA cranks are the same.
one we go with the pre lubrication of the engine :-)
oil pan bolted onto the engine block
out goes the distributor and in goes the bit that drives the oil pump
counter clock wise and away we went as long as the battery lasted
distributor back into the engine and we were ready for the fire up
abudi
here i have a few close ups of the distibutor
as you can see i am using the pertronix ignition solution. i've been doing that with all my mustangs and never had any trouble.
as you can see not much rust is in this boss.
this area was a little rusty bit nothing really serious.
the seats are in great condition which means they don't need to be recovered
the P/O gave me 4 door panels, so luckily i was able to refabricate 2 good ones out of the 4.
lots of parts that i still have to go thru
took the rear window out only to find "almost" no rust :-)
the headliner will be replaced
abudi
here's how i restored the 2 door panels.
the 73er deluxe panel
the old beat up ones
before cleaning
after a good wash
after cleaning the carpet area
new glue
original molding after using never dull :-)
the original handel
the original cup moldings
put in the wood applications and carefully bend the catches back...try not to break them
i used vaseline to preserve the panels. vaseline make the plastic softer.
here are a few pictures of the rear seat. as you can see the rear seat was used from 69-73
here the seat tag from 1970
my boss was built in 24 november 1970
abudi
yes LOTs of work!!
while disassembling the car i was amazed how good this car was. i took a lot of pictures not only to know where what goes but also to show how assembly was done back then...rather fast and sloppy.
here are a few impressions
before
kick panel area driver side
behind the dash...
behind the steering wheel
vent area driver side....not even surface rust
here without the box
original as if it came off the assembly line yesterday
all original stamping
rust area
abudi
i moved on by removing the toploader, fuel tank, headliner, chrome molding, brake lines, fuel line, shock absorbers and so on. none of the bolts ore screws broke or were damaged. i was so amazed how good this 71 mustang was! a few rust problems did show up but nothing really serious. the rear panel and the wheel moldings needed some attention, but that was about it.
rust problem: the wheel area
the original rear bumper
brakes A-OK
the toploader...only thing missing was the tag...found that thru the german forum :-)
here's a picture of the torque box
the front suspension area
a few more pictures of the under carriage
the rear axle that was on the car wasn't the original 3,91:1 axle but i found the original in switzerland
these are the parts that need to be restored
New rear panel
a few more pictures of the interior
this is really alot of work!!
abudi
rust issues:
both rear wheel houses and the rear panel...that it :-)
here a few more impressions of the disassembled boss.
getting the right color for the under carriage
chocolate brown
out goes the front suspension
i've never seen this before on any of my mustangs. this spring was hooked onto the floor and was used to keep the parking brke cable straight. :-)
this is the 3L25 (3,25:1) rear axle. the original 3L91 (3,91:1) is in stock now :-)
untouched under carriage. never welded or molested :-)
federal law in switzerland states that the entire VIN number hat to be visible within the engine bay.
the swiss vin was located right next to the original ford VIN number under the right fender
the naked boss
abudi
I've been working on the boss for around 1 year now and the stuff i posted was the work of 2 months....so there's more to come.
stay tuned
abudi
i work on my project using the chaos theory.
up next were smaller repairs because the weather was too cold to work in the garage.
the original collapsible tire repainted
the drive shaft repainted...the correct marking are to fellow
dash before
sanded down
repainted in matt black
since the weather was so cold i started on smaller things that i could take home.
here's a step by step thread on how to overhaul a power steering pump
reassembled and back on the engine
abudi
a friend and i put the boss on a moveable rack
we used an engine crane to lift the rear of the car
using a 4x4 works fine :-) as you can see
coo huh
the boss on mini wheels :-D
abudi
my original flywheel was missing so i called up perogie and randy had one on his shelf :-)
up next is the recovering of the fold down elements
it took me around 4 hours with a few beer breaks :-)
new carpets, the refurbished chrome molding and the painted fold down parts
glue and the electric screw driver
double sided tape works pretty good too
finished
abudi
i'm always looking for 71-73 parts.
as a matter of fact, i have a 75 dipstick in my boss and i'd love to have a 71 number in it. i mean it works perfectly fine but i'm trying to staying as original as possible.
up next were smaller parts like the hinges and latches. they were media blasted and painted in iron cast...that's a little darker than the original.
the collapsible tire is nothing really new for you guys in the US, but here in austria NO ONE knows this. here i'm posting a few pictures of the tire inflation...had to know if it works or not.
without air
half full here you can see how the tire wanders up :-)
fully inflated
didn't forget the warning decal
last but not least the inflator
abudi
it's always the little things that waist your time. well here's a perfect example:
before
after
the hinge springs for the ram air hood were "square" :-)
painted wiper arms and speaker grill
abudi
this could be interesting for some. i wanted to keep the original gas tank and since it was busted anyway eddie and i tried saving it.
but before we started that i finished the dash
before
after paint
with gauges and clusters
now to the fuel tank: DON'T try this if you haven't done this before. the fumes in the tank can blow up in your face!!
we welded big nails onto the dent and then pulled it out.
after...looks like new :-)
lets carry on with the rear axle
after the axle was media blasted i painted it with POR15
out goes the old fishy smelling oil
i painted the diff in primer red
seal area nice and clean
sealer before the paper seal goes on
felpro seal
that diff is soo heavy!
new bearing seals
i knocked them in with a big nut
installed
the new oil. if you have a locked axle don't forget the additive!!!
reassembly of the rear brakes
all new springs
new SS brake lines and parking brake cable
last but not least the original tag
up next will be the welding work
abudi
before starting up with the actual welding work on the wheel housing we took out the front window.
we fiddled a wire between the fame and the window and cut it out by moving the wire back and forth
simply push the window forward and out goes the windschield
easy does it
up next was the center console. it's amazing how many parts you have to refurbish when you restore a car.
center console before:
clock before
cleaned and lubed
reassembly of the center console
new paint job
after that i put the boss balancer back onto the engine
rebuilt the air cleaner
original filter
ready for the engine....
tattttaaa
finding that heat shield and heater riser tube was really hard.
up next was the toploader
hurst shifter beautiful
just hat to clean the linkage
the hurt shifter handle
the top loader before
more to come soon
abudi
now to the top loader
cleaning took around 4 hours what a pain in the ass
original seal kit
the tail housing had a leak and this is why
grinding the bad welding work down
this is liquid metal that is heat and pressure resistant
from the outside
and inside
let it dry for 30 minutes
and on goes the sanding
almost done
resurfaced
and painted in iron cast
the bell housing should have been blue i know. i liked it better in cast iron
no i didn't forget that :-)
the 40 year old paper seal :-)
this seal was rock hard
in goes the new one
the front paper seal with silicone
back in place
tail housing
new paper seal with silicone to be on the safe side
tail housing with the new real seal
one last look into the tranny
before paint
done
with hurst shifter "bone" and the dust boot. btw you can use the dust boot from the 70 top loaders as well
the boss linkage is gold from what i have researched :-)
pre lubed gears
detailing the engine
i hope that's enough for now :-D
abudi
let the welding begin
i'll let the pictures speak for themselves
this is the most tedious work i can image
it's a dirty job but someone's got to do it
bye bye rust :-)
as you can see we had some fun too :-)
let the tinning begin
tinning ingredients
looks good huh
et voilà ....
abudi
here are a few more pictures of the welding and tinning work.
before tinning
after
don't be greedy with the tin
after
the side panel tinning
sanding with 80 paper
now the car can go and get sand blasted
more pics to come
abudi