Ride height?
#1
Can anyone tell me the correct rear ride height for my 70' Mach 1 ?
I'm looking to replace my leaf springs ( suggestions would be good) and my ride height is 15" drivers and 16" passenger Wheel c/line to wheel arch lip.
I've got 245/60/15's with plenty of clearance and just want a slightly firmer ride, I assume the springs are original and shot so even standard would be a big improvement.


Thanks
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#2
(07-17-2021, 03:38 PM)Limeyboy Wrote: Can anyone tell me the correct rear ride height for my 70' Mach 1 ?
I'm looking to replace my leaf springs ( suggestions would be good) and my ride height is 15" drivers and 16" passenger Wheel c/line to wheel arch lip.
I've got 245/60/15's with plenty of clearance and just want a slightly firmer ride, I assume the springs are original and shot so even standard would be a big improvement.


Thanks
I have a 69 Mach..    so not sure if this applies exactly......   Ride height is a preference.  Personally I don't really go for the lowered look.  That being said, I was having issues with the rear floating too much.  But my leaf springs were new when the car was restored 12 years ago (previous owner)..  still had paper stickers showing on them.   BUT, they were 4 leaf, so more appropriate for a coup.  I ended up installing the stock height 5 leaf from CJs.  They call them LS9 in their catalog..  Actually a Scott Drake part. (c5zz-5560-hd)  Night and day difference in handling!!! Firm but not harsh     I'm running 245/45/17 .    It did lift the rear about 3/4"   which is fine for my taste..    Now the measurement from wheel center to lip is 15 3/4.    Hope this helps.       Bill (Just FYI My photo is with the old springs )
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#3
It's going to be very difficult finding the stock ride height.  Tinkering with these Mustangs since the late 1970's I can say it was fairly tall.  Like the other member mentioned, a 5 leaf spring will help a lot.  The original and replacement 4 leaf springs are a little soft and will sag a fair amount over time.

I went with a 5 leaf Mid-Eye spring.  As long as you use a conventional oil type shock and not a high pressure gas shock the ride will be firm but not too harsh with a 5-leaf spring.  Also, do not run a low profile tire on large diameter wheels like many younger people like these days.  That by itself will create a harsh ride.

Try this place for suspension parts, Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance - Opentracker Racing Products
It's a small family own place and they are very helpful.
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#4
Thanks guys, I will see what 5 leaf springs are available over here and what oil / gas shocks there are.
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#5
        Well I've taken off the air shocks ad fitted Koni's, the ride height is still about the same and I cant get leaf springs at the moment, next container due the end of August.
I've been trying to fit an export brace and my shock towers are only about 1/4" out so I've jacked the front up and hope the towers will fall out a bit if not it looks like a two person job with big pry bars will do it  Confused
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#6
Here is how I was able to install my one piece shock tower brace:

1) Loosen the top row of bolts attaching the fender to the inner fender.  Leave the front most and rear most bolts tight to maintain fender alignment.  I also loosened the two thru-bolt motor mount bolts (I don't know if that was needed bit I thought it would help).
2) Using two jacks, one under each frame location where the lower control arms attach to the frame, lift the front of the car.  Doing this easily moves the upper portion of the shock towers outward.
3) After installing the export brace tighten the fender bolts that were loosened (and motor mount bolts if you loosened those).  Let the car down.

Don't be surprised if the hood to fender gap increases a little.  I guess you can readjust the fender if that bothers you.
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#7
[attachment=13323 Wrote:1969_Mach1 pid='40874' dateline='1627592721']Here is how I was able to install my one piece shock tower brace:

1) Loosen the top row of bolts attaching the fender to the inner fender.  Leave the front most and rear most bolts tight to maintain fender alignment.  I also loosened the two thru-bolt motor mount bolts (I don't know if that was needed bit I thought it would help).
2) Using two jacks, one under each frame location where the lower control arms attach to the frame, lift the front of the car.  Doing this easily moves the upper portion of the shock towers outward.
3) After installing the export brace tighten the fender bolts that were loosened (and motor mount bolts if you loosened those).  Let the car down.

Don't be surprised if the hood to fender gap increases a little.  I guess you can readjust the fender if that bothers you.
Well 24 hrs in the air and a pry bar for the bulkhead bolts did it Thumbup
If it stops raining here I will try it tomorrow, I'm expecting a decent change with the Koni's on the back s well .
The only downside is the bonnet is now high on one side and low on the other at the cowl end so after I've done a few miles and it's settled I will have a go at adjusting it.
I might look for longer shock tower bolts as well.


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#8
When I installed my one piece shock tower brace I originally tried your method.  It was a beating.  Next time I had to reinstall it I used the method I previously posted and it worked easily with no prying needed.
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#9
(08-01-2021, 04:48 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: When I installed my one piece shock tower brace I originally tried your method.  It was a beating.  Next time I had to reinstall it I used the method I previously posted and it worked easily with no prying needed.
Thats what I'm wondering, when I have to take it off again will it be hard to fit again or will it have settled into the right frame shape?
I tried it out yesterday and with the Koni shocks on the back it was like a new car, a lot of the clonks over pot holes ( lots in our local roads here!) have gone and the whole car feels "rigid" I've got to put Koni's on the front and new leaf's on the back then I can get the camber / toe-in set properly as the good handling is just showing up how vague the steering is ( all new apart from the steering box which isn't too bad) I don't mind the 60's steering (if I want a car that steers perfectly I will drive my Honda) I just want it to be as good as it should be.
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#10
Yeah, that one piece shock tower brace will be difficult to remove and reinstall.  Try the other method next time.  If you're fortunate it will work out well like it did for me.

Original power steering is vague on these cars, even when new.  Your steering box likely needs rebuilding.  They are simple.  But only bearings and seals are available new.  You have to adjust for worn gears and such best possible.  Don't let somebody fool you telling you it can be completely rebuilt, they can't because of lack of new parts.

I converted mine to a Borgeson power steering box.  It has nice power assist and eliminates all the under car components.  But, like all aftermarket stuff it comes with issues and I would never do it again.  If needed, I'd rather go back old school, stock steering box and remove the troubling original power steering components.
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