Hey JTS, I am glad to hear your back on your Jacobra project. I can't wait to see that engine the car! I will keep an eye open for those exhaust manifold numbers you're looking for. Just to be sure I am looking for the correct manifolds, are these the ones that would work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-429-460-Po...2663189230
After a brief search on the internet it seems $550 to $600 for a set of those exhaust manifolds seems to be the going rate.
Maybe headers from Ford Powertrain Applications would fit. Great products but very pricey. Too pricey for me. The exhaust manifolds would be less expensive.
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/stage_2_460_revised.htm
Yeah, those are the ones, and yes as 69 Mach 1 mentioned there are some variations on the numbers / years, but they all look pretty much like the ones in your link. And yes $500.00 to $600.00 is way to rich for my blood. So unless I get lucky??? I'm not quite sure how I'm gonna solve that problem. If I have to run the stockers I'll have to port them, as they are pretty tight in the upper neck, where the bolts for the heads are. And if you can't get it out there isn't a lot of sense in building 650 Hp and then trying to shove it through a straw! Details Details. The link 69 Mach1 listed shows a set somewhat similar to the shorty's I have now they come down about the 3rd runner back, which puts them right where the steering shaft needs to go. It's damn hard to look at a picture, and try to figure out what will, and what won't fit. And I sure don't have the extra money to waste.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Big-Block-...2807498665?
JTS
I hope the link works. These are the headers I bought.
Is this a possible avenue to persue? How good of a welder are you? You already have short headers that don't fit. Can you possible buy some bends and straight sections from Summit Racing or Jegs, then start cutting and building the header puzzle? If it works, it would be your least expensive route and you'll have something better than the stock exhaust manifolds.
(07-15-2018, 05:46 PM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: [ -> ]Is this a possible avenue to persue? How good of a welder are you? You already have short headers that don't fit. Can you possible buy some bends and straight sections from Summit Racing or Jegs, then start cutting and building the header puzzle? If it works, it would be your least expensive route and you'll have something better than the stock exhaust manifolds.
Yes I was just about to ask pretty much the same thing. Can you make your own?
Yes, I also thought about that, but I'm looking at that as a last resort. they do make header flanges for the 460, ya know the ones with the short little tubes to weld to. unfortunately I'm a make it stay together welder, not a pretty welder.
I can weld them if I have to? I tried welding on a set of these "Stainless Steel" headers like the ones I got from "China".
They melt almost instantly. Kind of like welding aluminum, it starts to get hot, then falls away. I also don't have the right equipment to weld stainless, which may have been the problem? So I gave up the idea of cutting, and reshaping the ones I have. So you can see the dilemma, as I have tried several approaches, and so far haven't found the right one yet. But I'll get it.
JTS
Don't feel bad about not being able to weld the China stainless steel. I worked for a food eqpt. mfg. for 10 years. WE designed and built eqpt. for canning and bottling industries. Everything was type 340, 304L , 316, and 316L stainless steel. Occasionally our supplier had great deals on stainless from China. The fabricators always complained.
-The material was always thinner than US materials.
-The material would usually crack when cold forming when the same size US material would not.
-The material was difficult to weld. It would melt quicker.
Regarding pretty welds. I get a kick out of those that strive for that "stack of dimes" look. From time to time we also did some steel structural work that required weld inspectors, weld testing and certifications of the fabricators. That "stack of dimes" look creates stress risers in the weld. The peaks and valleys are sharp corners creating high stress locations where failures begin. The American Welding Society actually has maximum allowable dimensions for those peaks and valleys. A smooth weld is preferred. Weld inspectors would make the fabricators grind off a "stack of dimes" looking weld bead and start over.
Stainless headers last longer but the stainless conducts heat much faster than steel. The engine compartment will be hotter and the exhaust gasses will be cooler. I think I'd use steel and have it ceramic coated. Unless you plan on driving the car often in bad weather. For ceramic coating, I learned the hard way that the aluminum stuff has the lowest melting temperature and some will often burn off during the initial break-in of a new engine. Plus, to weld thin stainless steel you should TIG weld it, use a filler rod with less carbon and more chromium, I.E. 316L or 304L, and use Argon gas for the flux. Not many of us have that eqpt. available in our garage.
You are exactly right. I don't have much experience with stainless, in fact almost none. I do know the basics, but as you mentioned, funds or lack of, I'm lucky to have a Mig welder. The next thing I want is a plasma cutter. I can't believe how they are able to cut as clean, and sharp as they do. You'd have to be extremely good with a torch, to even get close to what a plasma cutter can do. Most of my welding experience has come from repairs on cars, trucks, farm equipment, etc so it was more large heavy stuff, mostly 1/4 inch and up, we used AC & DC Arc welders. I never had a mig welder until a few years ago, and I'm still learning all the things I can do with it. I also want a Aluminum spool gun for it, Someday.
I'm hatching a new idea to make a tube manifold, that is shaped similar to the cast ones? It might just work and it will allow for much larger tubes (equals flow), then the cast ones??? HMMMMM.
JTS
That's actually a pretty good idea. Buy the header flanges and some tubing. Then mimic the shape of the cast iron manifolds.
As far as welding, I only have Oxy-Acetylene torches and an old AC Arc welder. I want to get either a MIG welder or one of those power supplies that can be used for TIG welding. My problem is I keep looking at the $900-$1000 Lincoln or Miller MIG welders and those are too expensive for me. My fear is a cheap one just won't work as good as they should.
If you have a descent AC/DC arc welder, even one of those small Lincoln units, you can purchase an air cooled TIG torch and use the arc welder in DC mode for TIG welding. You'd still need a gas and regulator for the flux. But an arc welder in DC mode can be used as the power supply for TIG welding.
Wow I never thought of that but it makes sense. Do you need to regulate the amperage with a foot pedal or??? The torch, and gas wouldn't be to hard to come by. Man, that's a great idea. Unfortunately my Lincoln 225 is only an AC unit. Have a look on Craigslist as I have seen Mig welders on there go for some really good prices, even the ones at Harbor Freight, have some excellent revues, and run about $600.00. I don't mind spending money on good tools, I don't care what the name on the side is. Sometimes I just don't have enough to get them, at all.
Shop Tools List
2 Post Lift, to damn old to be laying on my back. I'll be 60 on the 27th. $1845.00 Delivered, Greg Smith equipment Indianapolis In. "School Bonus"
Coats 20/20 Tire machine, old but works very good. $400.00 off Craigslist
Oxy Acetelyne torch, had since I was 18 Bought it brand new, 1st paycheck at factory job, $125.00
Lincoln 225 AC welder, was my Dad's from the early 70's. Priceless Freebie.
Miller Mig welder, was thrown out, when we tore down the old Bus Shop, and built my new shop at the school. Freebie
80 gal Air compressor 220v. $400.00 from Home Depot.
4 ton Cherry picker, Yeah right the wheels won't hold 4 ton, they struggle with 1500 pounds, been replace once already. $125.00 Tool Central 30 Years ago.
harbor Freight Sand Blast cabinet, Fathers Day present. I paid for it, in more ways then one. LOL!
8 Ft Pool Table, Steve Mizerack / Sears SlateTron. $200.00 From salvage/ resale dealer. Had to assemble myself. Every Shop has to have a Pool Table!
2 Complete sets of tools, My good stuff at school, Snap On, Mac, Craftsman, etc. Then what I have at home, is a little bit of everything. $$$$$$$$???
Plus 30 to 40 years of little stuff, that meant something, and was put on a shelf. Now you know why I built a 24x32 Shop and added 24x24 to it. Less then
$20,000.00 in it. Concrete and all. Borrowed money from 401K, paid back.
I've got some stuff to work with, but I've been diligent, and only spent money on what I had to, and even then, I tried to get a Bargain. It's also taken 30+ years to accumulate all this stuff. And I still need ? want more.
JTS