Mach 1 Club

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Well for the last several days I have been painting my 72 mach 1. I didn't go with the original color ( green metallic ) but did of course go with a ford & mustang color. I used 1969-1971 yellow/competition yellow/bright yellow , it goes by several names. Shooting it in base clear and will be shooting matte clear over the black. I am using Diamont base which is very very user friendly and Transtart euro kwick clear again very user friendly. I shot Valspar epoxy primer and blocked it then re-primed and sanded to get ready for paint first 360 then 400 followed by 600 all wet/dry and by hand. Then sealed with the same epoxy material just mixed as sealer. I have the car all in pieces IE fenders,doors,hood,trunk,wing,ect and have painted it all in pieces for a better job since I changed the color. Everything is IN color except the hood which will be by Monday. Then my next time home, I work a 2 week on 2 week off schedule, I will mask all the yellow off and finish scuffing the black areas and shoot the matte clear ( which has to be mixed and shot all in one day ) to match correctly. I had to replace the passenger floor pan , heater core leak at some point and no one pulled carpet back to dry, I also replaced trunk floor and taillight panel and had to fabricate and replace the passenger side cowl vent area since there is no aftermarket piece for the 71-73 mustangs sadly. I used the cowl piece out of a 72 torino and made it fit with some work. Any way I can see light at the end of my 2 year tunnel !! YLWHRSE P.S. If I can ever figure out how to add pictures I have a ton of them I took throughout the whole processs.
I would love to see your car. Try this to load your pictures:

In your posting click edit or just hit reply.

On the bottom of your post click the browse button next to add attachment.

Locate your folder where your pictures reside in on your computer.

Click on the picture you want to insert into your post then select add attachment. Then repeat to add additional pictures.

Once you have uploaded all your pictures, select insert attachments.

I hope this was helpful.

Mike








Definitely hope you get the picture adding option figured out.

I would love to see your work.
I love the color combo you chose. It's a classic mustang, Mach1 color scheme. I would be very interested in seeing some pic's. Just curious, what color int. does your car have? I have a 1969 cougar that was an extremely light shade of green from the factory. The previous owner painted the exterior white. It also came with a very GREEN gold ivy interior. I pulled the interior and used spray on vinyl dye & changed it to black. I prepped it carefully and it has held up well for 10 years. Even though it is rarely garaged. It's my daily driver and needs a little touch up on the drivers seat, right now where the ivy shows through gives the overall look of worn leather, so I'm in no big hurry. Anyway I'd love to see pic's of your car, I know how exciting it can be to near the end of a long project.
Good Luck,
Keith
P.S. 2 weeks on 2 weeks off is an unusual schedule, you aren't a fire fighter are you?

Thmbsup
No Keith I am not a fire fighter, although I was a volunteer fireman in my hometown of Powell, Wyoming for almost 15 years. So I am very familiar with the service & brotherhood. No currently I operate a hot oil truck in Prudhoe bay Alaska. I guess having been a fireman I am truly a pyro at heart. Hahahaha, Anyway I am lucky my interior is black and was black originally so I got lucky. I have seen my cars original green outside color with green interior. It may be fine for some, but not my choice or pick for sure. I didn't think it would matter much as this car was bought as a toy for me ( I have a 66 galaxie 7 Litre convertible all original except carb and intake, 73 mustang grande currently undergoing body work getting ready for paint , I wasn't looking for another project but the guy wouldn't sell the 429 SCJ motor he had without the car so I got a twofer, anyway I totally rebuilt drive train and suspension when I got it and it is a 4 speed car and had the 351 Cleveland. I stroked the Cleveland to 408 CID and it is making almost 750 horse at the flywheel. What a blast! I grew up in Denver Colorado and drag raced clevelands and various mustangs at Bandimere speedway for years and learned what makes the clevelands tick. Anyways I am rambling on. I leave for work this coming Tuesday, but if weather permits will get some pics of the body in the sunlight and try to post them.
YLWHRSE
Okay - you have us interested!

Share a little of what you have done to your Cleveland.
Wow 750 out of a Cleveland is awsome! I had one in the early 80's that was a solid 500HP. Which was an absolute blast, I can only imagine 750!!! Gears JTS 71 Mach1
I will post some more info on my Cleveland build after I get to work I unfortunately leave in the morning to go back for 2 weeks. However I am very happy to say I finished getting my last panel ( the hood) in paint today !! WOOHOO finally !! So all I have left to do paint wise when I get home is to scuff the clear over the black & mask off all the yellow, then run everything through my temporary redneck paint booth ( more on that in a bit) to shoot the matted clear over the black to get the factory effect. Should be able to get everything prepped my 1st full day home then starting early the next day get all the matte clear sprayed. Then on to assembly!! As far as the booth goes. . I was in a bind time wise. I lucked out and bought a 50 x110' shop and finished off most of it in time to start the project. Thinking I would have plenty of time throughout the process to also build and get my paint booth done. Silly me that wasn't happening, so now it's time to prime and block. So I built a 20x25' booth using 2" PVC pipe and a large roll of heavy plastic sheating and now with repairs and upkeep 14 rolls of duct tape!! HAHAHA But seriously it has worked very well, better even than I imagined. I wet the whole floor down with water in the booth and all the way around the booth out from the edge 2'. I couldn't use real booth filters as the walls are not rigid enough to support the negative PSI inside the booth ( being it is a cross flow type ) so I used furnace filters and believe it or not tack rags. I know furnace filters are not very good by themselves so I tried wetting them down when shooting the primer and they dried out to quickly, however tack rags over the outside of the filters work amazingly well. I was pleasantly surprised. The true booth filters have a sticky membrane in the middle and that's where I came up with the idea, granted I had to swap them out fairly routinely but my paint supplier gave me a hell of a deal ( at cost ) because he was so intrigued by my idea and how well it was working. I promise also I will get the picture thing figured out and get some posted even if I have to get ahold of someone for help. The bad news is it will have to wait until next time home. It has been just crazy here in northwest Wyoming for weather as it has been raining fairly steady off and on since I started painting a few days ago. I want to get pictures in the sunlight as my shop lighting (vapor style) does not do the color justice. So bear with me for a couple weeks until I get home and by then I know the weather will be more conducive for pictures. Thanks for all the comments and I will be back soon.
YLWHRSE
Great idea on your temporary paint booth. I have heard of others who have built these using PVC as well, but you take home the Grammy on your filtration idea. Good Job!!
(05-20-2013, 03:05 PM)Steven Harris Wrote: [ -> ]Okay - you have us interested!

Share a little of what you have done to your Cleveland.

Well I got done a little early with work today so here goes. I started the engine build knowing one of the clevelands downsides is bottom end and a second one is velocity of air flow through the huge intake ports. So knowing that I went with a stroker build as the foundation. 4" stroke using a 6" rod which uses standard Cleveland main brgs but the big end on the rod is a chevey(SORRY) rod brg size of 2.10". I am kind of anal retentive when it comes to engine building and do some of the same block prep on all builds regardless of a stock build or high performance. So I squared the block, line honed and made sure the deck was flat, also zero decked the engine and had the cam bores cut for roller cam bearings and bronze bushed the lifter bores, and the standard oiling mods( if you are unsure of those /or they are not on the mach 1 site somewhere just ask and I will share them) one for sure everyone with a Cleveland should do is run a line from the oil port just to the right of the oil filter(there is a threaded plug in the block there) to a tee put in where the oil pressure sender in the back of the block goes. This force feeds the main brgs and greatly improves bottom end oiling. Next the bottom end is all forged and the rods are H-beam good for 1200 horsepower ( I built this one to the extreme knowing I would beat on it- you know drive it like you stole it) The crank came with pretty standard improvements such as lightened throws, knife edged counterweights, tuffrided for durability, and chamfered oil holes, cross drilled and I spent the extra money and got the lightened crank ( ~ 10-15# lighter) than the standard forged crank. The rods had the good ARP bolts and the bottom end and head mounting was done with studs. Also the bottom end treatment was given a main stud girdle & a (MPG heads out of Englewood Colorado) black max windage tray. Lastly because of the longer stroke and rod/bolt combo I had to notch( just a slight radius) the bottom of the bore slightly on one edge with a die grinder so the rod bolt would clear. I also before having the block bored and honed 1/2 filled the block with hard block to help with strength and to help keep the bores round under load. The boring operation was done while a torque plate was mounted & torqued on the engine ( I bought my own because no machine shop in my area had one for any fords) Next I used Probe forged flat top pistons that have 1 valve relief in them ( with my iron closed chamber 4bbl heads and the decking work and head surfacing ect I wound up close to 12 to 1 compression ) for rings I used Total seal's zero gap top ring -low tension oil ring, ring set and I ground the rings end gap and hand fitted each one to its own cylinder. Next up was the cam- I cant recommend Highly enough Scott Main who owns and operates both MPG heads and Cam research in Englewood Colorado! He races fords, he builds fords, Cam research only makes ford camshafts!! Give him and his products a try, I promise you wont be disappointed in the return you get. My cam is a very healthy .750+ lift & 300+ duration solid roller set up that pulls incredibly hard all the way to 8000 RPM's ( although on the street I short shift it at 7200) I used 3/8 hardened pushrods and appropriate guide plates. Next I believe is where the real magic comes from is head work and valve jobs. I used titanium valves (for lighter weight) and had the new competition 5 angle valve job done ( on a flow bench you would be surprised of the increase of flow just via the valve job) research it if you are serious about max performance. And of course hardened valve seats. I then spent numerous hours ( about 40-50 but again even just a couple hours blending bowls and cleaning up int & exhaust ports & gasket matching will help immensely) porting and polishing the Int. & Exh bowls and port work on the exhaust ports. Not much done to the intake ports except a small epoxy job on the floor of the port in the head and my intake then smoothed up and gasket matched both int & exhaust ports. The epoxy deal basically helps to increase velocity through the port which help fill the cylinder both with more air fuel mixture & also more efficiently. again research this- It works amazingly. if I was going to do a street engine only terror or one for performance but not high RPM's (over 6500) I would strongly recommend getting a set of aussie closed chamber heads as they have the closed chamber which helps with detonation & for better compression and burn characteristics because they work simply AMAZINGLY on the street. I have built several with those heads. The aussies got the best of both worlds for a street motor closed chambers and 2 bbl intake ports ( you know the velocity through a smaller port & cylinder fill deal) I also when bolting up my hooker super comp headers used again MPG heads port plates in the exhaust. They help stop reversion. Check out there web site mpgheads.com They have since built a new style called exhaust port tongues ( I had a couple of sets of the old style port plates laying around ) that are supposed to be even better than the port plates. I used good valve springs & titanium retainers and spring locating cups and positive valve seals . The intake choice is really very simple but they are not made anymore ( I have 5 ) and that is the Holley strip dominator intake. It is simply superb for horsepower and higher RPM's. The holley street dominator works very well for the street even tho it has 2 bbl size ports but works well with 4 bbl ports even tho its somewhat mismatched, and also matches up perfectly with the aussie heads by the way. The carb is a barry grant mighty demon mechanical secondary 850 cfm with annular boosters. I used a pertronix mechanical advance igniter 3 billet distributor & their e-coil. Then it was just a matter of tuning the carb and adjusting timing ect. My horsepower runs on the dyno were with torco race fuel and the hooker supercomp open headers. I can get away with premium pump gas 91 octane and add enough torco accelerator to make 105 octane. This octane booster really works !! Trust me, its not cheap but it works. The crap in auto parts stores is JUNK. Anyway hope this helps. I would be happy to answer any more questions on what I did to mine or help anyone wanting to beef up their Cleveland. Another guy I learned a lot from as far as the Cleveland engine goes is Dan Jones. Google it he IS the Cleveland guy. What he says is straight up true I promise. I was lucky growing up in Denver Co. I had a friend and his dad had a race shop with a dyno and flow bench. I spent many many hours trying different cams and carbs and intake combinations on actual dyno pulls and also porting/polishing and flowing heads on the flow bench and then trying them on the dyno. Anyway I have rambled on, hope I have not bored everyone to death.
YLWHRSE
Sorry I left out that I also run stainless roller rockers and use a stud girdle. It got late and I overlooked it.
YLWHRSE
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