Mach 1 Club

Full Version: FMX to T5 swap, no clutch bar hole
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Hi All,

I have nearly all my parts to put a T5 into my project 1970 Mach 1 and I noticed that I do not already have the hole for the clutch bar to go through. I have read online someone saying it is as easy as drilling a hole. I have also seen it write that a good whack with a mallet will pop out the piece I need removed. Which is it?

Down the line I may splurge for the Modern Driveline hydro kit, but for now the budget says stock linkage. I see a dimple in the firewall, centered where pictures show the hole should be. The firewall has been primered inside and out so if there is a piece that can pop out I cannot see it. I don't mind scraping if you guys say it's there. Otherwise, can anyone tell me what the outer diameter of the hole should be so i can drill it out?

Thanks,
Zac
I wish I could help you out or had advice. I know a lot about T-5s and have rebuilt about 12-15 over the past two years, but I haven't touched an old mustang. I am curious about the swap for sure though. Even though the T-5 won't handle some of the hp numbers some of these 351c are putting out I feel for a stock one a T-5 seems like a good fit. I will keep searching for an article on this subject. Good luck on the search!
(11-02-2012, 06:22 AM)armyfox Wrote: [ -> ]I wish I could help you out or had advice. I know a lot about T-5s and have rebuilt about 12-15 over the past two years, but I haven't touched an old mustang. I am curious about the swap for sure though. Even though the T-5 won't handle some of the hp numbers some of these 351c are putting out I feel for a stock one a T-5 seems like a good fit. I will keep searching for an article on this subject. Good luck on the search!

I did find more info and it appears that I will either have a dimple where the center of the hole is or I will be able to knock out the "plug" with a mallet. Mine has a dimple for sure, so now I'm going to measure the rubber boot that goes into this hole and make the hole to fit it.

You are right about most T5's not being able to handle the 351C in all its glory. I'm hoping it lasts long enough to save up for something stronger.
If the Clevelands stock and you have a World Class t5 you should be ok. If it isn't stock? Good Luck. Remember most all transmissions will exceed there torque rating as long as it is applied gradually. It's the snap/whip effect of dumping the clutch, that causes torque overload and breakage. Thats why we have squishy rubber motor mounts, trans mounts etc. To soak up some of the snap, and prevent breakage. JTS 71 Mach1
Yea I know the 93 cobra WC T-5s and the aftermarket ones were rated at 330 for torque. The early 90's WC ones only 300 ft lbs. The first WC ones I believe 270 ft lbs (my notes are home, but that is from memory).
(11-03-2012, 03:18 AM)armyfox Wrote: [ -> ]Yea I know the 93 cobra WC T-5s and the aftermarket ones were rated at 330 for torque. The early 90's WC ones only 300 ft lbs. The first WC ones I believe 270 ft lbs (my notes are home, but that is from memory).

Mine supposedly came from a Cobra but I will need to double-check the tag now that I'm curious again. I've decided to splurge on the Edelbrock RPM heads, air gap intake, and cam/lifters. What's that, around 400hp? No burnouts until I get a new tranny.
Horse power will depend largley on your compression ratio and the cam specs. All that being said 400hp is quite possible with what your suggesting. Have fun JTS 71 Mach1