Lot's Of Things...
Well, I know to avoid KYB.
They are probably good on a track though.

I have so much to learn when it comes to cars.
When it comes to Jeeps, it seems the shocks are mostly valved the same.
Yeah, the lengths and mounts may differ, but the valving for a Jeep is the same valving for an F250 that weighs over twice as much.
Rancho shocks ride great on a pickup, install them on a lightweight Jeep? 
Keep the chiropractor number handy.

For Jeeps, Skyjacker Hydro 7000 shocks seem to be the softest (if anyone wondered)
They aren't gas charged, just regular oil filled. They allow an inch or two almost undampened. Then they slowly firm. They're valved about right for a 3000 lb vehicle.

Didn't get any Mustang work done today.
Woke up and the wife had a list going and was a bit cranky today so I just went with the program. Wasn't feeling like a rebel.  Laughing

I'm off tomorrow and she'll be at work.
So the prospects for tomorrow look pretty good.
If you guys are looking for 6x9's, the JL Audio C2-690TX is probably one of the most powerful, best sounding 6x9 I have ever heard. No lie!
Installed in the rear deck of the Mach, powered by a 230 watt RMS amp, I'm blown away.
Almost sounds like there's a sub in the trunk. The highs are crisp without being too bright or harsh.
Where did those powerful lows come from? Sure doesn't sound like a 6x9. 

It's all hidden in the trunk and controlled completely by my phone bluetooth.
The nasty 1970's original radio is still in the dash!

All I needed was a 12 volt power (10 gauge) wire from the battery run under the car to the trunk, avoiding anything hot or spinning. 

I used an Audiopipe APBTM1200 bluetooth receiver that mounted right on the amp itself with double sided 3M tape. It's small, light and easy to hook up.  
I forgot, I'll post pictures later. From now on, it's my new go to sound system.
I'm not using CD's anymore and can find almost any radio station in the country on my phone.

The Audiopipe receiver automatically turns on the amp when you connect your phone to it's bluetooth.
I love it when things exceed my expectations.   Wink
(04-30-2018, 12:42 PM)MachnVegas Wrote: Well, I know to avoid KYB.
They are probably good on a track though.

Track cars still using the original type suspension generally get serious high end shocks, or something from Bilstein, or if they want or need something period correct, KONI.

If you don't want the ride to be altered at all, again look at stock replacements from brands like Monroe, Gabriel, and those KONI STR.T shocks.  I've seen a few Motorcraft brand shocks in National Parts Depot's catalog.  Mostly, avoid something that is a high pressure gas shock.  You'd have to do some research to see if Bilstein offers a shock for your car that isn't a high pressure gas type, they might.  FYI, the Scott Drake brand shocks are KYB Gas-A-Just high pressure gas shocks made for Scott Drake.
(04-30-2018, 10:35 AM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: I did read the guys post.  That's why I mentioned KYB Gas-A-Just shocks will make the suspension stiffer.  Then continued with possible options that are stock replacements and will not make the suspension stiffer.

Wow - not sure what you're talking about.  I went with KYBs on mine (stock replacements), and it rides just fine... not overly stiff at all.  Of course, I have no basis of comparison, since my car was a non-functional mess when I got it and I pretty much threw out everything that was old.

I'd recommend the KYBs for a cheap, stock-feel solution.  Mine's just a cruiser as well - it won't be seeing any track time, either.
I'm not certain what KYB shocks you installed.  They do offer a low pressure shock which is comparable to a Monroe Matic shock.

The school of thought is kind of like this:

-  If the car has stock soft springs and you want a firmer ride without changing springs, the a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Just will acomplish that.  A lot of people are fine with that combination.  Although I have heard the high pressure gas KYB Gas-A-Justs tend to have a shorter life span.

-  If you have stronger aftermarket springs then you want to avoid a high pressure gas shock as it can often cause a bone jarring ride.

-  If the car has soft stock springs and you want to maintain that ride, then don't use a high pressure gas shock.

Most that want to improve handling (and ride firmness tends to go along with that) use stronger higher rate springs.  Then use something like a Bilstein or KONI shock (not high pressure) to control it.
These KYBs (found at NPD) came with the Super Suspension Kit I ordered from Laurel Mountain Mustangs probably 6 or 7 years ago.



Like I said, I have no comparison to a stock ride (since mine was technically 'dead' when I bought it), but it rides just fine and pretty much what I was expecting.

I'm wanting to swap out the front springs and shocks for this, mostly just to lower the front about an inch or so and not have to replace the rest of the stock components (control arms, etc.):

TCP Vari-shock coil-overs:
I appreciate the shock discussion.
It's helping me decide which replacements to go with.

Looking at vendors, about every shock claims to "improve ride and handling" but there's no specifications.
There's no way to compare shocks by the numbers that I know of.
Spring have ratings, tires have ratings, ect.
Shocks it seems have... claims. Really vague claims.

So how are we supposed to pick shocks that will work for us? Buy and cross our fingers?

Man, I hate shopping like that!
Yeah that's really about it. You shoot for a good general description. Which in my experience has usually worked fairly well. The other thing is price, a low dollar shocks will usually be more toward the stock feel. Where as when you start increasing the price, you also start adding components to the shock, which costs more, and can change the way it behaves very quickly. Usually middle of the road is where the best value is. Unfortunately that still leaves you with the vague description. Back in the 70's there were several tunable shocks, which could be set to different levels. I believe they still make them or something similar. Might be worth a look, and give you a couple options in the same shock for one price. Hope it helps. 

If you are concerned that the ride quality might get stiffer, then stick with a Monroe Matic or KONI STR.T, or something from Gabriel that is a stock replacement.  These are twin tube old school oil shocks and only have a very low gas pressure in them merely to help prevent the oil from aerating.  Anything that is a Monotube design will be a high pressure gas shock and might very well make the ride quality a stiffer.  If you are partial to KYB, then use their GR2 series shocks which are also a twin tube oil shock with a very low gas pressure like the Monro Matic etc.  One thing I noticed when installing my KONI STR.T shocks is they are physically much more robust and come with better hardware then the Monro Matics, KYB GR2, or Gabriel shocks.

Basically from what I've seen, twin tube shocks are old school oil type with low gas pressure (if any) to reduce oil aerating.  Monotube shocks are high pressure gas shocks.

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