Resurrecting a 30 year old 460.
#1
Ok Guys, I'm asking for opinions, on breathing life into an engine, that hasn't run in 30 years. I have turned the crank with a breaker bar to be sure it's not stuck. The Man told me he drove the car to the spot shut it off, and never started it again. I had to clean 30 years of rat crap, nests, weeds, even a small tree growing from under the car to find, that there is actually an engine in it. Now I know what has worked for me in the past, but I'm curious if anyone else has any "brilliant" ideas I might like better. So here goes. Tell me how you'd resurrect a 30 year old "Dead Engine"! JTS 71 Mach1
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#2
I'd call Steven Harris and ask him to come down and give you a hand (since he travels more than most people change shirts). :)

Thanks for the invite, I'd love to come but since I am occupied (or is it preoccupied) currently I'll give you my suggestions.

1 - visual inspection
2 - turn over by hand - possibly oil cylinders
3 - inspect oil condition & possibly change
4 - pull distributor and prime oil system
5 - add gasoline to carburetor via air horns to "reseal" gaskets
6 - inspect plugs, wires, points, rotor, cap
7 - connect to new gas in a gas can
8- connect to battery
9 - make sure transmission is in park or neutral
10 - give it a go
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#3
Well Steven that's a pretty good response. Made me laugh. And yes you're invited anytime. We'd love to have you. Yeah pretty much what you said about firing it up I was curious as to what others thought about oils lubes etc. I have always used Marvel Mystery oil or ATF. to lube the cylinders I just thought there might be something else, that somebody found that works better? JTS 71 Mach1
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#4
I think I'd add one item before #10 on Steven's list. With fresh oil and oil filter in the motor remove the distributor and thoroughly prime the oil pump. Rotate the crank several revolutions while doing so. This way you know there won't be a dry start.

Regards,
Mike
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#5
(03-02-2016, 03:47 PM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: I think I'd add one item before #10 on Steven's list. With fresh oil and oil filter in the motor remove the distributor and thoroughly prime the oil pump. Rotate the crank several revolutions while doing so. This way you know there won't be a dry start.

Regards,
Mike

PS see number 3 and number 4 of Steven's post. JTS 71 Mach1
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#6
(03-02-2016, 02:18 PM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote: I have always used Marvel Mystery oil or ATF. to lube the cylinders I just thought there might be something else, that somebody found that works better? JTS 71 Mach1

I knew that my advice was not going to be anything new for you. I have never used the Marvel Mystery oil but I have used quite a few of the alternative oil remedies. Cheap and on hand is what usually works.

I recently purchased a Jeep J 20 that had sat in the Mohave Dessert for the last fifteen years and the motor would not turn over by ratchet on the crank bolt method. (Enter price negotiations) I pulled the plugs and sprayed some diesel on the pistons. After a couple of weeks when I got back to it I discovered that the water pump was rusted tight and the belt was glued to the pulley. The motor was actually free - wonderful stuff that diesel. :)
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#7
(03-02-2016, 11:58 PM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote:
(03-02-2016, 03:47 PM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: I think I'd add one item before #10 on Steven's list. With fresh oil and oil filter in the motor remove the distributor and thoroughly prime the oil pump. Rotate the crank several revolutions while doing so. This way you know there won't be a dry start.

Regards,
Mike

PS see number 3 and number 4 of Steven's post. JTS 71 Mach1

I can't believe I missed that! Oh well.

Regards,
Mike
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#8
Ok here's the complete routine for you:

(1st): pull all plugs and get each cylinder squirted with your choice of
A) motor oil or
B) diesel or
C) marvels mystery oil

(2nd): put on new belts
(3rd): drain antifreeze and replace the thermostat and both radiated hoses then refill antifreeze. ( we're hoping that old radiator is good at this time unless you can visually see the clogged radiator vanes then I'd replace the radiator.
(4th): now comes the messy part: remove the oil pan now and scrape out the sludge and put on a new oil pump after you prime the oil pump in a small pan full of oil.( use a drill to prime it in the pan). Put on new pan gasket and install new oil pump. Put oil pan on and tighten very gently cross cross pattern to specs.
(5th): fill engine with fresh oil now but only fill with (4 Quarts because that last quart we will drown the rockets with up top.)
(6th): now clean the old plugs with fine sandpaper. ( we will use them for initial startup only).
(7th): I would either rebuild the carb with a new gasket set and clean the jets....OR....replace it with a brand new one ( fresh gaskets of course).
(8th): install new fuel pump then run the intake line (8ft of new fuel hose) straight into a large 5 gallon gas can of fresh gas.
If not and you trust the gas tank then you will have to rig up a large diaphragm plug to plug up the gas tank fill orifice so that you can use your air compressor to blow out the gas lines. Since the other end of the fuel lines near the fuel pump.
Use a large volume air tank and pressurize the fuel tank by holding the filler tube covered while filling with air. A friend or family member can tell you when it blows air and old fuel sludge out the engine compartment end of the fuel line ( before the fuel pump).
Then you can hook up the fuel line now to the fuel pump fill with (a gallon) and use air pressure to blast it into the fuel line to prime the lines.
Note: either method you will eventually have to clear tank and lines any how, so using a 5 gallon gas can to simply check the running of the engine works but still must clean tank and blast out the lines eventually.
(9th): remove distributer cap and replace with new one with rotor.
(10th): Mark the spot the rotor is pointing onto the manifold: pull the distributer and use the special oil pump priming tool (Rod), and attach the drill to the rod (special tool) end and spin the drill in the same direction as the rotor turns during operation which is counter clockwise. Eventually while operating the drill you will hear the oil squirt up high into the valve covers. Now your done priming the oil system. Now re stab the distributer so that the rotor and distributer body are aligned to that same spot they were originally.
(11th): remove both valve covers and drown the rockers with that last quart of oil then put on valve covers and a cheap see through fuel filter.
(12th): now with a new battery now connected put some old wrap towels over the spark plug holes as we are now going to crank over the engine and blow out that oil in the cylinders. It will lube up the cylinders.
(13th): Now crank over the engine for about 30 seconds blowing out the cylinders.
(14th): Now install those old cleaned spark plugs and attach the plug wires.
(15th): Prime the carb with a half cup of fuel directly into the top of the carb.
(16th): crank it up?. The engine will start and smoke like hell for about 20 min but afterwards will clear up.
Let the engine cool down now
(17th): change spark plugs now with new ones.
(18th): restart and adjust carb
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#9
(03-04-2016, 03:10 PM)Masterblaster7212 Wrote: Ok here's the complete routine for you:

(1st): pull all plugs and get each cylinder squirted with your choice of
A) motor oil or
B) diesel or
C) marvels mystery oil

(2nd): put on new belts
(3rd): drain antifreeze and replace the thermostat and both radiated hoses then refill antifreeze. ( we're hoping that old radiator is good at this time unless you can visually see the clogged radiator vanes then I'd replace the radiator.
(4th): now comes the messy part: remove the oil pan now and scrape out the sludge and put on a new oil pump after you prime the oil pump in a small pan full of oil.( use a drill to prime it in the pan). Put on new pan gasket and install new oil pump. Put oil pan on and tighten very gently cross cross pattern to specs.
(5th): fill engine with fresh oil now but only fill with (4 Quarts because that last quart we will drown the rockets with up top.)
(6th): now clean the old plugs with fine sandpaper. ( we will use them for initial startup only).
(7th): I would either rebuild the carb with a new gasket set and clean the jets....OR....replace it with a brand new one ( fresh gaskets of course).
(8th): install new fuel pump then run the intake line (8ft of new fuel hose) straight into a large 5 gallon gas can of fresh gas.
If not and you trust the gas tank then you will have to rig up a large diaphragm plug to plug up the gas tank fill orifice so that you can use your air compressor to blow out the gas lines. Since the other end of the fuel lines near the fuel pump.
Use a large volume air tank and pressurize the fuel tank by holding the filler tube covered while filling with air. A friend or family member can tell you when it blows air and old fuel sludge out the engine compartment end of the fuel line ( before the fuel pump).
Then you can hook up the fuel line now to the fuel pump fill with (a gallon) and use air pressure to blast it into the fuel line to prime the lines.
Note: either method you will eventually have to clear tank and lines any how, so using a 5 gallon gas can to simply check the running of the engine works but still must clean tank and blast out the lines eventually.
(9th): remove distributer cap and replace with new one with rotor.
(10th): Mark the spot the rotor is pointing onto the manifold: pull the distributer and use the special oil pump priming tool (Rod), and attach the drill to the rod (special tool) end and spin the drill in the same direction as the rotor turns during operation which is counter clockwise. Eventually while operating the drill you will hear the oil squirt up high into the valve covers. Now your done priming the oil system. Now re stab the distributer so that the rotor and distributer body are aligned to that same spot they were originally.
(11th): remove both valve covers and drown the rockers with that last quart of oil then put on valve covers and a cheap see through fuel filter.
(12th): now with a new battery now connected put some old wrap towels over the spark plug holes as we are now going to crank over the engine and blow out that oil in the cylinders. It will lube up the cylinders.
(13th): Now crank over the engine for about 30 seconds blowing out the cylinders.
(14th): Now install those old cleaned spark plugs and attach the plug wires.
(15th): Prime the carb with a half cup of fuel directly into the top of the carb.
(16th): crank it up?. The engine will start and smoke like hell for about 20 min but afterwards will clear up.
Let the engine cool down now
(17th): change spark plugs now with new ones.
(18th): restart and adjust carb

Damn You are thorough! LOL! JTS 71 Mach1
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#10
(03-05-2016, 03:55 AM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote:
(03-04-2016, 03:10 PM)Masterblaster7212 Wrote: Ok here's the complete routine for you:

(1st): pull all plugs and get each cylinder squirted with your choice of
A) motor oil or
B) diesel or
C) marvels mystery oil

(2nd): put on new belts
(3rd): drain antifreeze and replace the thermostat and both radiated hoses then refill antifreeze. ( we're hoping that old radiator is good at this time unless you can visually see the clogged radiator vanes then I'd replace the radiator.
(4th): now comes the messy part: remove the oil pan now and scrape out the sludge and put on a new oil pump after you prime the oil pump in a small pan full of oil.( use a drill to prime it in the pan). Put on new pan gasket and install new oil pump. Put oil pan on and tighten very gently cross cross pattern to specs.
(5th): fill engine with fresh oil now but only fill with (4 Quarts because that last quart we will drown the rockets with up top.)
(6th): now clean the old plugs with fine sandpaper. ( we will use them for initial startup only).
(7th): I would either rebuild the carb with a new gasket set and clean the jets....OR....replace it with a brand new one ( fresh gaskets of course).
(8th): install new fuel pump then run the intake line (8ft of new fuel hose) straight into a large 5 gallon gas can of fresh gas.
If not and you trust the gas tank then you will have to rig up a large diaphragm plug to plug up the gas tank fill orifice so that you can use your air compressor to blow out the gas lines. Since the other end of the fuel lines near the fuel pump.
Use a large volume air tank and pressurize the fuel tank by holding the filler tube covered while filling with air. A friend or family member can tell you when it blows air and old fuel sludge out the engine compartment end of the fuel line ( before the fuel pump).
Then you can hook up the fuel line now to the fuel pump fill with (a gallon) and use air pressure to blast it into the fuel line to prime the lines.
Note: either method you will eventually have to clear tank and lines any how, so using a 5 gallon gas can to simply check the running of the engine works but still must clean tank and blast out the lines eventually.
(9th): remove distributer cap and replace with new one with rotor.
(10th): Mark the spot the rotor is pointing onto the manifold: pull the distributer and use the special oil pump priming tool (Rod), and attach the drill to the rod (special tool) end and spin the drill in the same direction as the rotor turns during operation which is counter clockwise. Eventually while operating the drill you will hear the oil squirt up high into the valve covers. Now your done priming the oil system. Now re stab the distributer so that the rotor and distributer body are aligned to that same spot they were originally.
(11th): remove both valve covers and drown the rockers with that last quart of oil then put on valve covers and a cheap see through fuel filter.
(12th): now with a new battery now connected put some old wrap towels over the spark plug holes as we are now going to crank over the engine and blow out that oil in the cylinders. It will lube up the cylinders.
(13th): Now crank over the engine for about 30 seconds blowing out the cylinders.
(14th): Now install those old cleaned spark plugs and attach the plug wires.
(15th): Prime the carb with a half cup of fuel directly into the top of the carb.
(16th): crank it up?. The engine will start and smoke like hell for about 20 min but afterwards will clear up.
Let the engine cool down now
(17th): change spark plugs now with new ones.
(18th): restart and adjust carb

Damn You are thorough! LOL! JTS 71 Mach1

What car/truck is the 460 in? You have all steps you need to get that thing going. I can tell you. I had to do the same thing to a 1973 Tbird I bought for 300.dollars. I used transmission fluid. but all the fluids listed will work. After we did all of that, when we were done and the car was running good. THAT THING SMOKED a lot. There was always a couple of quarts of oil in the trunk. WE used the car a couple of years killed all of the insects in the neighborhood then sold it for 500.00. good times. good luck, Regards John
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