Just had rear window gasket installed on 69 mustang
Hey guys,

I just found a guy that was willing to install the new rear window gasket i bought at cjponyparts. Wasn't easy to find someone since all the auto glass people didnt want to touch a car that old. Anyway, the guy finished the job but told me he couldnt snap the chrome trim molding down because the rubber was too thick and he didnt want to bend the chrome trim. This is the section along the vertical towards the top on both left and right side. He said bring it back on a hot day and he'd try again. The trim didnt appear to be snapped in before replacing the gasket so i can understand why it was harder with the new gasket. Do you guys know of any better way to snap that in?
First off, I couldn't find anybody in my area that would install the rear glass in my 69 Mach 1. So you're fortunate in that respect. The rear glass is actually easy to install, but difficult to stop from leaking. Especially with an aftermarket gasket. I had to use a 3M liquid sealant for windows and a syringe to apply sealant between the gasket and car body after it was installed. I wasn't too happy but it doesn't leak.

As far as the trim, my trim fit without any issues, but I purchased my gasket from NPD. What brand gasket does CJ Pony Parts sell? I would see if NPD offers a different brand than what CJ Pony Parts sells. My experience has been when there are different mfg's for restoration parts NPD seems to sell the higher end item.

Another thought, can you simply trim the gasket enough with a sharp razor blade so the trim will fit?


On a side note, from your other thread, did the driveline or U-joints fix the vibration?
The gasket is scott drake. I heard from another post of someone doing the same as you meantioned by trimming the gasket. Problem is i paid someone to install it and its already glued in.

I still need to check the driveline. Plan to do that in a couple of weeks. Just today as I was driving the car for about 45 minutes on the highway i felt that vibration at my seat and feet with a low rumble. It pulsates every second or so. I have to slow the car to 50mph so it doesnt vibrate as much. will update when finished.
I don't know what brand NPD currently sells. I do know when I purchased mine from NPD it wasn't branded as Scott Drake. Is the gasket too wide or too tall?

If its too late to trim, I hope you watched the installer so you can replace the gasket yourself if needed.

I didnt have a chance to watch him. Had to drop it off since he only works M-F and normally on the road doing auto glass replacements in people garage. I was trying to find a picture of the clips and how the molding clips in. Not a lot of info on that.
The trim and retainer clips attach the same as on the front windshield. In fact, the retainer clips are the same. If you decide pop a front windshield trim piece off for reference make certain you have the special tool to remove the trim. Without it you can crack the glass.

Too bad you didn't see the installation. You would have wondered why you were paying somebody to do that.

(10-28-2015, 01:52 PM)1969_Mach1 Wrote: The trim and retainer clips attach the same as on the front windshield. In fact, the retainer clips are the same. If you decide pop a front windshield trim piece off for reference make certain you have the special tool to remove the trim. Without it you can crack the glass.

Too bad you didn't see the installation. You would have wondered why you were paying somebody to do that.


Trim clips are different for 71-3's
I have an AMK set for front and rear clips
Gasket can be Scott Drake or Daniel Carpenter [ brand I carry]
Scott Drake may be a Daniel carpenter with a Drake sticker on the label
If the car has the wrong clips they might be too short
I just tested the seal and it still leaks on the bottom window corners. If I had known a new gasket and installation by a professional would result in the same leak then I would of left it alone. I'll have to call the guy next week.
When I replaced my rear glass, I used a black silicone sealant where the new seal contacts the glass as well as where the gasket meets the body. It was a little more frustrating, but no leaks. My son and I did the job in about 2 hrs. We first installed the seal to the glass, and then, starting at the top, fit it into the opening using some twine which we wrapped around the circumference of the seal - and slowly and methodically pulled the twine out of the window channel from the inside of the car, while simultaneously applying downward pressure to the outside of the glass, thus allowing the inside lip of the seal to envelope the window opening. It was a little messy, but we took our time and didn't try to force anything. The headliner's rear edge was then trimmed and tucked under the seal (about 1/2 inch). Headliner should be removed before installing rear glass. GXR
The lower corners and the top edge are a very common area for thee windows to leak. At least with todays aftermarket gaskets. I don't recall leaking issues back in the 1980's when these cars still had original gaskets.

When I installed mine, twice, I learned the gasket has to be glued to the window. I used a 3M Urethane that is commonly used on front glass that glues in place. Then, after installed I had to use a liquid 3M Resealant window sealant. I used a syringe to force it between the gasket and the car body (pinch weld).

ohiomustang, I think his car is a 1969. At least on mine the front glass and rear glass retainer clips looked the same. Out of curiosity, do you know who makes the gaskets for Scott Drake or Daniel Carpenter? For repro stuff, I use to like Scott Drake. But it seems his quality has dropped of the past few years. Just my 2 cents.

FYI: If you're thinking of replacing the head liner, the best time to do it when the front and rear glass are removed. Mainly because the headliner glues to the pinch weld then the gasket covers it.


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