First few runs after engine rebuild and she over heats
I tried a Flex-A-Lite flex fan and got tired of cutting my hands and arms every time I worked on the front of the engine. I've been happy with Derale's flex fan. It's well made, moves a fair amount of air and is actually quite.

How is this radiator for my 351w without ac?
I wished I had input on that radiator but I don't. I haven't heard any feedback on a radiator that looks like that or know anybody that has used one. The price is good but don't know about the quality, fitment with the stock mounts, or even the manufacturer. Who makes it? The bottom and top tank don't mimic the originals. But the bottom tank looks like its made to fit the original saddle mounts. I cannot determine if the top tank is made to fit the original saddle mounts.

The core on most aluminum radiators are made with two wide rows of tubes, normally 1" or 1-1/4" wide rows. Not three narrow rows like that one advertises. Unless it is a newer design. I haven't looked at aluminum radiators in a while. Copper/brass radiators have more rows of smaller tubes.

I'd say ask CJ pony parts about it but I'm sure they will say its a great item. Sometimes imported parts are the only option. I am just not a supporter of imported parts.

Hopefully somebody else here has used one of those and will have feedback.

My fan is 18 inch diameter and the radiator is 20". I dont know how many rows it is. When I check the 24" radiators, they say wont fit non ac cars which is what I have. Should i go for a 20" 3 row without ac?
You may not like this one, But could there be a possibility of the head gaskets being wrongly placed, looking back on my rebuild I remember that the top on the left bank was up and the gasket reversed on the other side, (something to that effect).

I cant exacly remember how it was something like the water galleries being blocked on the left bank front and right being blocked on rear. Any how I remember that you must see the gasket tabs between the block and head poking out on the front of the motor. There are some links of this online. Many people make this error and it is easily overlooked as most think if its not bown shes good.
A quick check can eliminate this from the equasion.

I remember when I had a simular problem and it turned out I needed a new cylinder sleeve. A gas dectection can also point you in the right direction, and eliminate the possibilty of an internal hot gas leak from the block or cylinder head into the cooling system.
Good Luck
I wondered about the head gaskets being installed correctly myself and asked in a previous post. I assumed they were okay because there was no response to it. The water passages will not be correct if a head gasket is incorrectly installed.

(08-16-2015, 03:24 AM)rindel Wrote: My fan is 18 inch diameter and the radiator is 20". I dont know how many rows it is. When I check the 24" radiators, they say wont fit non ac cars which is what I have. Should i go for a 20" 3 row without ac?

Your asking a tough question. I select the largest my budget can afford. If yours is only a 2-row then the 3-row 20 inch wide will be better. Enough...I don't know. Will a 24" wide radiator be a lot better than a 20 inch wide radiator? I don't know.

I haven't seen all possible combinations but the 4-blade fan is odd. My Ford service manual doesn't list a 4-blade fan for 69 Mustangs with a 351W. I'm not saying it wasn't a possible combination, but I have only seen 4-blade fans on 302 and earlier 289 Mustangs. I am still a bit confused at the combination of parts you have. Is the 5th character on the vin an M?

I do know the 69 and 70 Mustangs with factory 4-barrel 351W's tend to be difficult to keep running cool. I can recall back in the early 1980's my older brother had a 69 Mach 1, 351W 4-barrel car. At that time it had the largest radiator available which was a 2-row 24" wide radiator with the stock 5-blade flex fan. The summer month daily routine was to open the hood when he parked it at home and run water over the radiator to help cool down the engine.

When you look at radiators, they will specify a 20 inch for non A/C cars. The 24" radiators are listed for A/C and/or heavy duty cooling. I don't see why a 24" radiator will not fit. Like I mentioned earlier, you will need the upper and two lower saddle mounts, the rubber saddle mount inserts, and a fan shroud.

Can you upload a picture showing your radiator and radiator support area just to be certain there are no differences in the radiator support? I am not aware of any differences but it wouldn't hurt to verify.

I'm willing to spend about 300ish but want to make sure it fits and is much better than what i have. I would buy a 24inch if it fits but most say for ac cars. I cant figure out what the difference is other than capacity but some of the fine print on cjponyparts says "This kit will fit 1968-1969 cars with A/C and is designed for use with the radiator outlet on the passenger side".

Honestly I'm not sure how many rows my radiator is. Is there a way to tell? I attached three pics. Basically the radiator is mounted by two bolts on each side. I dont know what the saddle mounts are or look like..

Attached Files Image(s)
Nice work! Engine compartment looks original and clean. There is an oddball blue/grey color paint for the power steering pump if you want to go that far.

That fan is not the original flex fan style. I had to look twice, but there are only 4-blades. That's an odd looking fan. Are there Ford markings on it? That's probably worth upgrading to a 6 blade flex fan (preferably Derale brand) of the same diameter.

In your pictures the radiator support looks the same as mine with a 24" wide radiator.

As far as the saddle mounts, here is a link to a few pictures of my Mach 1. You can easily see the upper saddle mount in the radiator cap area. You cannot see the 2 lower saddle mounts

You can easily count the number of tube rows by removing the radiator cap and looking inside the radiator. You may have to drain some fluid to see the tubes.

I don't think you can get a new 24" wide radiator and fan shroud setup for that budget. Also, your engine compartment looks nice an original. I don't know If I'd want to put an aluminum radiator in there. How about trying this idea. If your radiator is already a three row radiator, have you thought of taking it to a radiator shop and have it rodded out? In addition to cleaning they remove the tanks and push a rod through each tube to be certain they are not plugged. You will then know for certain if it is too small or was simply plugged too much. Having a radiator rodded out or replaced is good practice with a new engine.

If yours is a two row radiator, then I'd go back to looking for a larger radiator. Then you'll have to decide 20" or 24" and the new saddle mounts and fan shroud that go along with a 24 inch.

I see that anti-freeze container in there. Is it still blowing coolant out of the radiator? FYI, on these older downflow radiators without a recovery system the coolant level should be about 1" below the top of the upper tank so there is still some expansion room.

I couldn't find any marking on the fan. I think I have a 2 row radiator. Attached a pic so you can see it. I finally realized how to check for 2 rows. It may need a cleaning. I keep seeing some brown stuff floating on the top of the coolant. I don't think its a gasket leak because I tested for that with the blue liquid kit.

She is still spilling. I took it for about half a dozen rides so far. Not long enough for needle to peg the hot line but close to it (about 80% across the way). She then starts spilling coolant into that temporary bottle i mounted. I even tried water wetter but didn't really help.

So I'm down to two theories on why its overheating. Theory 1) somehow we put the gasket on backwards or blocked a water hole. I would be shocked if we did as I vaguely remember they were clear but you never know. We didn't machine the blocks so it is possible that we may have a gasket leak but the test results didn't show that and I am not getting any white smoke out of tail pipes.

Theory 2) Radiator is too small. Prior to the rebuild the needle use to hit about 70% the way to hot. Since engines run hotter after rebuilds and I replaced exhaust manifolds with headers then i might of pushed the radiator to its limits.

Since you already have a 24 inch radiator then that is probably the way to go but I would have to by the saddle mounts. I only saw your top one in the pic (nice mach btw). So you don't have side mounts?

Attached Files Image(s)

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