Some Backyard Wrenching with the Kiddos
#11
One of the biggest challenges I face is the VIN is a 351 2V Mach1 and the sticker in the door is med bright yellow exterior and ginger deluxe interior. Most of me wants to keep that. My grandfather's '70 Boss 302 was yellow with a brown interior. That was part of the attraction to this car for me. Part of me wants to rebuild to a 4 barrel with ram air and go blue exterior with a black/gray interior or a green exterior with the ginger or black interior. I wrestle with this several times a day in my head. I know the value is in rebuilding to the sticker. I also know I plan to keep this till I die. So... What is everyone else's opinion? Keep it pure or do what I want to MY car. I've also thought about rebuilding my block as a 400.
Eric Nonamaker
Weirton, West Virginia
1973 Mustang Mach 1
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#12
Sure the value of even the lowly 351 2V will increase but never to the degree of a 4V or Boss model.

If you never plan to get rid of it then you have answered your question. Build it to your specifications. My Mach 1 is originally Bright Yellow but is currently white. I plan to go with the Medium Yellow Gold pictured in my signature.

I like the Ginger interior as my high school Torino GT had the same color interior. I have seen several with the Medium Yellow Gold with the black interior and I do like those as well. If they made a reproduction of the Boss 351 checkered brown cloth I would probably jump to that just because it is so unusual and so 70's.

Since it is a "typical" Mach 1 make it to order - for you.
[Image: Arizona_flag_32w.gif]
Southern Arizona
Current Mustangs:
1973 Mach 1

1971 Mustang Grande
1965 Mustang
[Image: stevenharris.jpg]
http://www.mexicomissionariesofcbt.blogspot.com/
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#13
Took some more trim out. The backseat area is gutted. Still need to get the front. Got the dash pad, dashboard side panels, windshield pillar trim, and all the headliner trim out. Looks like I'll be able to salvage everything so far except the windshield pillar trim. They were shattered around the dash. Word to those who want to take these off. Take your dash's side panels and dash pad off first to avoid damage. I think this is why mine where broken to pieces before removing what was left. Looks like I'm definitely going to need some floor pans. Knew that was coming.


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Eric Nonamaker
Weirton, West Virginia
1973 Mustang Mach 1
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#14
Missed a floor pan picture from the backseat.


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Eric Nonamaker
Weirton, West Virginia
1973 Mustang Mach 1
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#15
The package tray looks a little bit worse for the wear but the rest looks surprisingly well.

The A pillar trim are normally fragile. A bit hard to find in good order. The coupe and the fastback (Mach) are different as well.
[Image: Arizona_flag_32w.gif]
Southern Arizona
Current Mustangs:
1973 Mach 1

1971 Mustang Grande
1965 Mustang
[Image: stevenharris.jpg]
http://www.mexicomissionariesofcbt.blogspot.com/
Reply

#16
(09-17-2015, 02:22 PM)Steven Harris Wrote: The package tray looks a little bit worse for the wear but the rest looks surprisingly well.

The A pillar trim are normally fragile. A bit hard to find in good order. The coupe and the fastback (Mach) are different as well.


I was surprisingly shocked at the condition of the package tray too. I was thinking other than the fiberboard portion being a hot mess this metal was going to look great when I lifted the insulation. I'm pleased with the rest. The trim isn't all perfect but it's minor wear or small cracks. Still usable enough for me. The driver side floor pans are an even hotter mess. Can't want to get the front seats out tomorrow. I think I'm going to need a whole new seat base too.

That package tray though... Still looking for replacement options or just fabricating something on my own.
Eric Nonamaker
Weirton, West Virginia
1973 Mustang Mach 1
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#17
You would think the package tray area would be an area that would not have rusted based on its location. This only confirms that these cars really do rust from the inside out.

Please keep us updated on your progress.
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#18
(09-17-2015, 08:56 PM)Mustangmike Wrote: You would think the package tray area would be an area that would not have rusted based on its location. This only confirms that these cars really do rust from the inside out.

Please keep us updated on your progress.


You aren't kidding. I figured the package tray is probably the most inside, unexposed piece thats even elevated. Which leads me to believe the trunk was either left open for years or the weather stripping/seal of the rear window and/or trunk was horrible at one time. I think it was the later based on the condition of the glass in the car.

The exterior looks like a million bucksbucks compared to the things I'm finding under interior panels. Even despite the fact someone decided to spray over the original paint with a very thin layer of primer. I'm guessing this is because the whole car is yellow except the front passenger fender and a few rear trim caps. Suppose they wanted it to all match? The underside of my hood is filled with surface rust too and not a bit on the topside.

My plan once I get the pieces replaced that are beyond repair and the surface rust off the others is to lay down a coat of rust inhibitor and then a coat of spray in insulation. Then put in a new standard insulation kit. Anyone else ever done this? Results and happiness down the road?

There's some debate on that. What if there is a small area water can get under, then it can't go anywhere but rust away where it's at. There are lots of what if's in just about everything we do. I want to try to be more proactive in preventing future rust than reactive. All in all I'm not to troubled with the condition of the car that has spent it's entire life in the southeast. First shipped to Jacksonville from Dearborn and then sold to me from Chapel Hills, SC.
Eric Nonamaker
Weirton, West Virginia
1973 Mustang Mach 1
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#19
Friday we got the carpet and seats out in the front of the car. Today we sweep the big chunks out and them vacuumed the entire interior and the trunk.

Just look at those floor pans! Still debating how I want to go about this. Part of me actually wants to strip the whole body and put it on a stand. Then get to work. The lazy part of me says to just cut out the floor pans, weld in some news ones, and hope for the best.

The bottom frame for the drivers seat is all rusted. I don't even think there's enough left to weld a couple of brackets in. The good news is the rails are in fair shape. Just need brushed down to the metal and repainted. The passenger seat and back seat are in great shape. The vynil on the front has a couple of holes. The vynil on the back seat is perfect for 42 years old.


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Eric Nonamaker
Weirton, West Virginia
1973 Mustang Mach 1
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#20
On a side note...

My 7 year old daughter, Madison, asked me why some parts were yellow and the others all rusty. I told her that all of this was painted yellow at one time. Before I had a chance to explain the rusting process and old age of a car left to pasture she came back with, "I guess the guy who paints the floor didn't do a good job."

Love that kiddo.
Eric Nonamaker
Weirton, West Virginia
1973 Mustang Mach 1
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