new member needing help on 351C intake gasket
#1
Hi All

I'm Dan and I'm just exploring this web site for information on 351 Cleveland 4BBl intake gasket replacement. I'm having trouble with Fel-Pro 1228 gaskets slipping out after about a year. I've replaced this gasket 3 times already. I'm now going to try using the original turkey pan intake gasket. I'm looking for a installation procedure for the turkey pan. Any help is welcomed. I have a Edelbrock 4 Bbl aluminum intake with 351 4 bbl quench chamber heads.

Thanks
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#2
Welcome Dan,

We have some engine guru's that should be along shortly to explain the correct procedure to replace the intake gaskets so that they will stay put.

In the meantime, jump on in and enjoy the site.

Is your 351C in a Mach 1? Not that it has to be as we like all type of 351C powered machines.
[Image: Arizona_flag_32w.gif]
Southern Arizona
Current Mustangs:
1973 Mach 1

1971 Mustang Grande
1965 Mustang
[Image: stevenharris.jpg]
http://www.mexicomissionariesofcbt.blogspot.com/
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#3
I don't know about slipping out. But on 351W I've had problems with Fel Pro Performance intake gaskets wicking coolant over time and constantly having to retorque the intake manifold. Plus they don't seem to hold a torque for long periods of time. When I remove them, they are squished all over the place. Fel Pro's tech told me the performance series of gaskets are not intended for long term use. They are intended for motors that will be tore down frequently, every month or two.

I switched to an Edelbrock intake gasket. They look like Fel Pro's performance gaskets but made from a different material for longer term use. They also seem to better hold a torque. Most people also use Edelbrock's Gaskacinch or similar around each intake port on the the cylinder head side and a thin film of silicone around each coolant passage on both sides. Don't forget, use a bead of silicone for the end seals and not the cork or rubber end seal gaskets.

I don't know if an aftermarket aluminum intake will fit well enough to use the original "turkey pan". Maybe somebody else has experience with that.

Best Regards,
Mike
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#4
That steel shim or "turkey pan" gasket was designed to be used with a heavy, cast iron intake, although they were also used on the Boss 351 (aluminum intake). They work well when installed correctly acting as a heat shield for a cooler air/fuel mixture. They weren't designed to seal coolant passages as there aren't any on a Cleveland. Just take your time installing it using Permatex Copper seal (spray sealant) around the port openings on both sides. Let it dry before you try installing it. As mentioned, use a thin bead of high-temp sealer on the front and rear sealing surfaces of the block being sure to coat the corners well, but be careful not to go crazy with the stuff or you'll end up with squeezed-out gobs of it making it's way into your oiling system. Also, as you're using an aluminum intake, check the manifold's mating surfaces for pitting or distortion as these can cause poor idle characteristics because of vacuum leaks. Clean those corners and front/rear surfaces with carb. or brake cleaner well, as sealant doesn't stick to oil.
'71 mach, M-code 4SPD
'03 P-71 interceptor
'04 P-71 interceptor
02 superduty V-10

"They all run away when the Clevelands come out to play"
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#5
OEM gaskets of any type often don't work with aftermarket intake manifolds because the aftermarket manifolds simply do not fit well enough. I would try Edelbrock's intake gaskets and use their Gaskacinch or equivalent around each intake port on the cylinder head side. If you've ever read instructions for a Weiand intake manifold, they basically tell you to glue the intake gaskets to the cylinder heads. Big block Mopars also use a metal valley pan gasket and for performance applications with aftermarket aluminum intakes it is sandwiched between composite gaskets.

Best Regards,
Mike
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#6
On the end rails use just a nice bead of silicone sealer not the rubber ones that come in most gasket kits. . Use some spray tack or light coating of silicone around the ports. I don't use the turkey pan cause its usually a pain in the arse. Another trick to help get the gasket on evenly is to get a couple pieces of all thread and thread them into a couple holes on the head. Then the gaskets will stay in place and they will also help guide the intake on. Once you get a couple bolts in, unthread the studs and put the rest of the bolts in.
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