Pulled my 351c today
Pulled my 351c today and am putting in a Thumpr cam and maybe rebuild the heads. I have many upgrades planned before summer!

Attached Files Image(s)

It's a good time to get started to be ready for summer!

Way to include the next generation as well.

Keep us posted on the progress.
Good work! Please keep us updated on your progress and thank you for sharing for a picture.

Now that the engine is out, what are your plans for the freshening up the engine compartment?
I was considering por15 in a couple spots, and other then that black engine compartment paint. Some new wiring where needed new radiator and washer fluid resivor

POR-15 makes a prep spray that makes the product adheare better.
Be sure to get at least two quarts of the product and it should do the whole underside of the car and then some. That stuff is really tough.SSig_goodjob
Cam swaps are fun projects!

I am definitely not trying to rain on your parade, although it sounds like I am. Do some research and select the cam that is best for your needs. My 2 cents on Thumpr cams. The primary goal of Thumpr cams are a lopey idle. I like the sound. But to accomplish that, close lobe separation angles and a lot of valve overlap is required. This creates low engine vacuum primarily at idle. Your power brakes and vacuum operated heater controls will likely not work well because of this low engine vacuum at idle. Plus, I am fairly certain another cam choice, maybe in their Magnum series or Xtreme series, if Comp is your preference, will make more power and provide more engine vacuum at idle. Also, your power brakes and vacuum operated heater controls will operate better than with a Thumpr. The trade off is maybe a less lopey idle.

Another bit of info. The Xtreme series has a more aggressive lobe shape than say, the Magnum series, and is therefore harder on valve train components.

Lastly, there is a good chance cylinder head work will be required to fit the correct valve springs for whichever cam you select.

Have fun, but be certain to research your cam selection as best you can!

Best Regards,
Thanks for posting Sandman. I am planning to pull my 351c out of the 73 in the next 2-3 weeks. Just about got it prepped and this will be my first time ever pulling a motor. Any tricky spots or tips I should know?

Pretty easy to pull a motor, plan on spilling some fluid even after you drain everything. I kept as much on the engine as possible and remove as much from the top before getting underneath the car. Take your hood off first so you can see better, shock tower supports, radiator, battery, disconnect all your wiring and put masking tape with notes where each wire goes if you are not familiar. Disconnect your fuel lines and block off I use a line clamp, remove your bell housing bolts the top ones at least, wires connected to the valve covers. Take a good look from the top all around the engine and make sure everything is clear and out of the way, tape stuff back if needed so it does not get tore up when you pull the engine. Raise the car and use jacks stands to be safe, remove your starter, fly wheel plate to access the torque converter bolts and remove those, unbolt the motor mounts from the engine block, transmission kick down lever, exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. I left my manifolds on until the engine is out. I might have missed something be sure to look closely with a flashlight. After that I lowered the car you can place some wood blocks under the transmission to support it after the engine is removed. Remove your carburetor and linkages etc and install a lift plate. I don't suggest using the stock carb flange bolts they look a little whimpy to me so I used beefed bolts to attach the lift plate to the intake. Take another look at everything to make sure all has been disconnected and attach to your engine crane. You might want to make sure your crane arm is extended far enough so you can raise the engine high enough to clear the front grill. Give the engine a wiggle to see if you are separating from you transmission and continue to raise it slowly. It is not very difficult to remove the engine you just need to be careful as it can be dangerous. I have pulled a dozen engines and you can get it done I just a few hours, getting them rebuilt and installed is what takes a whole lot longer. I have an air powered engine crane and it makes removing the engine very smooth and easy. It's funny because my kid, who is 13 tells me that the other kids at school don't want to get their hands dirty so I am glad his interest is growing. Wow I rambled on quite a bit, I am not a mechanic but like doing everything myself and have been doing so for the past 20 years. Hope this helps you.
Thanks for the play by play action Sandman. That will be a great help for anyone looking for help or tips.

An air powered engine crane!

Keep us posted on your progress.
Yes thanks a bunch Sandman. I think the part that makes me the most nervous is breaking loose those rusted bolts on the motor mounts and the manifolds. They look very stuck and there isn't much room to get in there. I'll probably try finishing all of the top stuff this weekend so we'll see how that goes. I will get under the car the following weekend to conclude the prep.

Thank you for the tips--I didn't realize the carburetor needed to come out. I'll share if I hit a snag.

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