Electrical weak points
#21
GXR and others, absolutely no offense taken at all, although I did have to tell Fluffykins you didn't mean it the way if sounded. Duh BTW we have red-necks here but we call them 'bogans' (bo-gans).

This site site far more 'rounded' than the BMW site I am also on. You guys are far more open to discussions on other classic cars and makes. You all seem like blokes who go to car shows and understand how much work has gone into a project even if you would not want the end product as a gift.

The sort of blokes you want at your BBQ.

Have to run now as it is time for my manicure.

PS (and you are going to love this) My Mach1 owning daughter has a French Bulldog called Moe. I will post pictures of him and me at the car show mentioned elsewhere on this site.
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#22
Hey I like BBQ! And yes I go to car shows. Lots of them just ask my wife,( she goes where I go.) I guess that makes me a "Bloke", Enjoy JTS 71 Mach1
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#23
And I work 12hr shifts days and nights including weekends (why are car shows and runs on my working times?). Ms M1FF has become a car freak/petrol head. The daughter always was.
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#24
(02-25-2015, 09:11 AM)Mach1FatherFigure Wrote: Ms M1FF has become a car freak/petrol head.

Now that is good news!

M1FF I appreciate your sense of humor throughout your threads. Thank you.
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#25
On a practical note in relation to the OP question - If you check out a wire from an old loom you usually find the cooper has a black oxide coating on it. That pevents a good contact and looses volts. On the main battery feeds and earth cables that oxide will heat the joints when under load and slow the starter.
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#26
(02-26-2015, 09:51 AM)Mach1FatherFigure Wrote: On a practical note in relation to the OP question - If you check out a wire from an old loom you usually find the cooper has a black oxide coating on it. That pevents a good contact and looses volts. On the main battery feeds and earth cables that oxide will heat the joints when under load and slow the starter.

Ok great! That's good info. Is there a good way to clean up the oxide or is replacement usually required?
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#27
The black oxide can be removed with vinegar. Once a joint/crimp is complete and the oxide gets in there is no way to get it out. Current will flow in an oxidised wire no problem; its the joints.
I would suggest when replacing cables of ALL sizes that after the crimp is complete then solder it to maximise contact area and seal from the air. Some years the factory did it to starter/ battery cables, some years they did not. Now it is rare for any factory battery cable to be sealed as I would like. Some factory crimps are more a weld so air is excluded and although the wire is oxided the joint is 100%.
Terminals can be vinegar dipped to clean then but you do need to rinse clean and then dry.
Older Lucar terminals can be tightened with pliers but be careful as you can just crush them. I tend to use self locking grips and gradually tighten down the locking point to avoid that problem.
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#28
Ah vinegar. It's a friend in removing oxide (rust) in various forms.
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