Know about this motor?
#11
(07-08-2014, 08:52 AM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote: Lets face it the only thing we can change on an engine is the Top End, all the pistons do is go up and down, so were kinda stuck with that. (unless you want to go all the way?) JTS 71 Mach1

Oh, but there IS a lot that you can do with the pistons - they become part of the combustion chamber too... For example should you run big, open chamber heads with pop-up pistons or small, closed chamber heads with flat-tops (and still end up with the same compression ratio)? That depends. :) Hint: there's not much quench area in a big open chamber head. If you don't want to run high-octane gas then you're kinda stuck. LEARN AS MUCH AS YOU CAN. It usually doesn't cost much to learn. Biggrin

I would caution against putting a fresh set of heads on a tired bottom end. Unless the rings and bearings are (known to be) good, you're asking for trouble. Swapping different sets of heads on a fresh motor is OK, but not the other way around. The top end is where most of the power comes from but there is some power to be gained from things in the bottom. Some of it is almost "free". Like adding a windage tray. A REAL good balance job is another good thing to do. It can give you a little bit of a power increase AND it helps make things last longer. The factory balance is a "production-level compromise" at best. A carefully balanced motor is a different animal.

Pull the 289, take it apart carefully and start fixing it. 289's run strong if they're set up correctly. Try to find someone in your local area who knows and loves Fords. They're NOT the same as a Chevy or a Mopar. Learn from someone else's experience - it will save you some money. If you can do most of the work yourself you'll have a greater appreciation of the car when it's done AND you'll know exactly what went into it. Pay the machine shop to do the things that they do best: bore and hone cylinders, deck the block, install and size cam bearings, etc. Do as much of the time-consuming detail work like chasing the threads in the block, painting, etc. as you can at home.



JRP

1971 Mach 1, 1973 Opel GT, 2013 Mercedes C300, 2012 FLHRC, 1982 FXRS, 1972 XLH
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#12
(07-09-2014, 06:38 AM)jrpav Wrote:
(07-08-2014, 08:52 AM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote: Lets face it the only thing we can change on an engine is the Top End, all the pistons do is go up and down, so were kinda stuck with that. (unless you want to go all the way?) JTS 71 Mach1

Oh, but there IS a lot that you can do with the pistons - they become part of the combustion chamber too... For example should you run big, open chamber heads with pop-up pistons or small, closed chamber heads with flat-tops (and still end up with the same compression ratio)? That depends. :) Hint: there's not much quench area in a big open chamber head. If you don't want to run high-octane gas then you're kinda stuck. LEARN AS MUCH AS YOU CAN. It usually doesn't cost much to learn. Biggrin

I would caution against putting a fresh set of heads on a tired bottom end. Unless the rings and bearings are (known to be) good, you're asking for trouble. Swapping different sets of heads on a fresh motor is OK, but not the other way around. The top end is where most of the power comes from but there is some power to be gained from things in the bottom. Some of it is almost "free". Like adding a windage tray. A REAL good balance job is another good thing to do. It can give you a little bit of a power increase AND it helps make things last longer. The factory balance is a "production-level compromise" at best. A carefully balanced motor is a different animal.

Pull the 289, take it apart carefully and start fixing it. 289's run strong if they're set up correctly. Try to find someone in your local area who knows and loves Fords. They're NOT the same as a Chevy or a Mopar. Learn from someone else's experience - it will save you some money. If you can do most of the work yourself you'll have a greater appreciation of the car when it's done AND you'll know exactly what went into it. Pay the machine shop to do the things that they do best: bore and hone cylinders, deck the block, install and size cam bearings, etc. Do as much of the time-consuming detail work like chasing the threads in the block, painting, etc. as you can at home.
Everything you said is true. If you had read the last part of the line you quoted. It plainly says "unless you want to go all the way". Then as you stated there are all kinds of options. Reading Mach1 club's first post he was looking for something that wouldn't break the bank and still be reliable with some HP. I was just stating one option. Edelbrock matches the components to what you already have and takes the guess work out of the equation for the average Joe. No pun intended. JTS 71 Mach1
"We built these cars to drive the "HELL" out of them, not to be museum pieces!"  Carroll Shelby

2008 Mustang V6 5 speed "Diablo Sport Predator" tuner, 87 octane tune. WOW!
1994 Ford F150 Shortbed
1986 Honda 450 Rebel
1995 Honda Pacific Coast
1989 Jacobra / Jag xjs
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#13
Yup I read that part. Sorry, I always go all the way! 578254

Yeah the Edelbrock setups look good. Without knowing the true condition of the bottom end though I'd still be cautious on recommending just a top end. Sometimes you just have to spend some money. My first car was a '67 coupe with a 289. The engine was tired and we didn't want to go too deep inside so I just did a valve-job and decked the heads. It ran better after doing the work but it started to smoke (rings) after a few months so guess what I ended up doing after all was said and done? Yup - a complete rebuild.

I'm getting ready to build a '71 351C now. Does anyone have any experience with "new" after-market parts - good or bad? I'd love to hear it. Back in the day (I'm getting old) if you bought TRW pistons you got good stuff. Is that still true? Is there a lot of Chinese junk around now?
JRP

1971 Mach 1, 1973 Opel GT, 2013 Mercedes C300, 2012 FLHRC, 1982 FXRS, 1972 XLH
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#14
(07-09-2014, 12:55 PM)jrpav Wrote: Yup I read that part. Sorry, I always go all the way! 578254

Yeah the Edelbrock setups look good. Without knowing the true condition of the bottom end though I'd still be cautious on recommending just a top end. Sometimes you just have to spend some money. My first car was a '67 coupe with a 289. The engine was tired and we didn't want to go too deep inside so I just did a valve-job and decked the heads. It ran better after doing the work but it started to smoke (rings) after a few months so guess what I ended up doing after all was said and done? Yup - a complete rebuild.

I'm getting ready to build a '71 351C now. Does anyone have any experience with "new" after-market parts - good or bad? I'd love to hear it. Back in the day (I'm getting old) if you bought TRW pistons you got good stuff. Is that still true? Is there a lot of Chinese junk around now?

Hi again.
Just abit on the last part on parts, as far a internals go. Ive always had good experience with crane cams and lifters, seems everything is comp cams this comp cams that, nothing against them I run their rockers and their good.
I rember when there were no such thing as a roller cams , to us nomal folk, and I have never had problems with their equipment failing even when using old school cam systems.
The other things like pistons brgs, valves ect, TRW and ACL are still adequate for the job Though Ive switched over to mahle parts recently and all seems good so far.
Just my experience, there are many who have a wealth of knowlwdge here.Undecided

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#15
Yes you have to be careful about parts these day as there are lots of Chinese Junk, stuff out there. Most of the big names TRW, Moog, Weisco, Crane, Lunati, etc. still produce excellent parts for the general Rebuilds And you can go high dollar with most of them also. So it's what your pocket book can stand. That determines how Fast you can go! 578254 Always do your homework like a good boy. JTS 71 Mach1
"We built these cars to drive the "HELL" out of them, not to be museum pieces!"  Carroll Shelby

2008 Mustang V6 5 speed "Diablo Sport Predator" tuner, 87 octane tune. WOW!
1994 Ford F150 Shortbed
1986 Honda 450 Rebel
1995 Honda Pacific Coast
1989 Jacobra / Jag xjs
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#16
Joe, I think you mentioned the key
GEARS to wake it up Biggrin
What's in it now / 2.75 or 3.00
3.50 is a nice street gear
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#17
I agree Don...if the car has the 2.78 gears in it now then 3.50 will definitely wake it up. It won't fix a tired motor but it is an excellent and affordable suggestion.
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