Blow by / Exhaust smoke
(04-10-2014, 10:30 PM)noroz Wrote:
(04-08-2014, 10:24 AM)piper62j Wrote: In your post, you mentioned driving 500 miles since the last owner.. Is that since the engine was rebuilt? If that is the case, the rings have or were not seated properly and it will have blow by. Perform a compression test on all cylinders after making the fuel issue repairs..
Hope this helps..

This has been on my mind a bit too, though I dont recall it blowing smoke before storage, I will run a compression test as soon as ive finished with this other stuff.

Back again,
On a lighter note I found a good web site folk can check out for motor related stuff, with good prices, very specialized but worth a look

Well Ive done what I can so far, compression tests at 165 to 170 on all cylinders, new pcv, fuel pump, holley pain in the butt 670, reset float levels vac tested over 15 hg when tuning air/fuel this being with a
lumpy comp cam. I could keep mucking around with this, but Im seeing alot of stupid oversites from the guy who built this engine wrong length valves for the comp cams magnum valve tips causing wear on the retainers, which I am just using valve lash caps to stop further damage.
The weather is less humid now and the smoke can now be seen to be more of a light blue/ grey , which gets worse as the car gets to operating temp. Begining to look a bit more like poor ring seating or fuel wash in the bores? I might have to pull her down.SSig_help

Yep I think you might be right. Sucks the first guy didn't do a good job. One thing I will tell you from my own experience with Ford motors. Ford uses a very high content of nickel in their blocks. So depending on the bore size. (if possible) It is better to cut the block to an oversize piston and rings then it is to simply hone the cylinders and get new rings to seat. The nickel makes the block so hard the new rings won't want to seat after just honing. Hairpull
The only "Other Way" I know how to seat the rings, is to drain the coolant, then run the engine till hot (15-20 minutes)and shut it off and let it sit for several hours / days then refill with coolant and see what happens. "I never said it was a good way" But it does work. Pray Good Luck JTS 71 Mach1
Thanks for the heads up,
I was kinda hoping to get away with a hone, and just go for cast rings, I will give your suggestion a try, the only thing Im worried about is if the block is say at 40 thou now that this would be also risky taking it out to 60, Ive heard these blocks arent that forgiving, and the car is a full maching no vehicle. Im not that keen on the thought of liners either, cost wise that is.
You are correct about the blocks being a risk at .060 the only way to know is to have it sonic checked. Some can and some can't be bored to .060 Sleeves are the only other way to preserve a numbers matching engine. Yeah it sucks. Sad JTS71 Mach1
I thought you can easily go 60 on a Windsor block ?

Clevelands are the thinner castings
I was never a big fan of 60 over blocks...but, yeah there are plenty of blocks out there that are. A reputable machine shop should know, if anything by experience.
(04-16-2014, 08:20 AM)ohiomustang Wrote: I thought you can easily go 60 on a Windsor block ?

Clevelands are the thinner castings

You are correct Don as The Cleveland's are the thinner of the 2 and most Windsors will go .060 with out much danger but there are some that won't make .060 without being to thin thus creating a hot spot and eventual failure. I know several machinists and they definetly recommend sonic checking "any" Ford block somebody wants pushed to .060 JTS 71 Mach1
If theres ever a new owner for this car he might just find his matching block in the trunkUndecided
I can relate to the frustration. What's your plan now?
(04-23-2014, 06:07 AM)Mustangmike Wrote: I can relate to the frustration. What's your plan now?

I decided since I need to put screw in studs on these heads, I might as well turn a negative to a positive and do that and since Im already in the neighbourhood I might look at a rebuild if needed on the bottom end.
I suspect maybe an oil control ring is at fault.

On another note can anybody tell me in regards to screw in rocker studs 3/8 on the rocker side which is the same size the original fulcrum sits on,
and using magnum roller tip rockers. Why I would need guide plates if the configuration would be identical as If I had kept the old press in studs, with the 5/16 on the rocker retaining side.
I have been trauling around on this subject can anybody shed some light on this.

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