1 Inch Drop w/ Wedge Question
#1
Okay... it's time to seek out help. There maybe a simple solution to this but it is really bugging me out. I dropped the suspension 1 inch on my 66 fastback. Everything is good, except I want to use the wedge that came with the kit that goes between the upper ball and control arm. Most of the research I've done indicates you do not need to use the wedge if you are dropping 1 inch or less.

Here is the problem, when I install the wedge, the grease fitting or zerk on the ball joint is positioned lower in upper control arm opening where you would fit your grease gun to grease the upper ball joint. To make matters worse, the bolts that come with the kit to secure the upper ball joint interfere with the upper control arm opening as well.

So, has anyone out there ever used the wedge when relocating the upper control arms and if so, did you have the same problem with the zerk??

Thanks all!





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#2
CAN YOU PUT A 90 DEGREE ZERK IN IT? SO IT POINTS OUT TO BE ABLE TO GREASE IT....MY 69 HAD THE HOLES THAT SOME MECHANIC BACK IN THE DAY CUT INTO THE SHOCK TOWERS TO BE ABLE TO GREASE IT. WE WELDED THE HOLES SHUT AND WHEN I PUT THE NEW A-ARMS ON I PUT THE 90 DEGREE ZERKS IN....I HAVE EVEN SEEN WHERE PEOPLE CUT A HOLE IN THE TOWER WITH A HOLE SAW JUST BIG ENOUGH TO FIT THE GREASE GUN THROUGH AND THEN USE A BLACK PLASTIC PLUG TO HIDE IT. GOOD LUCK TO YA
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#3
Thank you for the feedback...it was actually the upper control arm ball joint zerk not the control arm shaft zerk fitting.

What worked was a 45 degree fitting, not any 45 degree fitting, but one that did not interfere with the control arm opening which would prevent the wedge holes from aligning with the ball joint holes.

Needless to say, I was very disappointed with the 1 inch relocation kit I purchased. But at the end of the day, and completely deviating from the installation instructions, the end result was probably much better than following the instructions that came with the kit.

Thanks again, mission accomplished, and happy holidays!
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#4
Good to hear that the final outcome was better than the sum of the problems!

Got any pictures to share? You know "One picture is worth a thousand words".
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#5
               

Here is the progress on the front suspension. A few pictures I took were a little too blurry to see the modifications but basically what we ended up doing was:

1. Welded the lowering template directly into shock tower to eliminate the need to use the upper bolts provided in the kit. Welding the template directly to the shock tower should strengthen that area. The bolts that came with the kit not only interfered with the up and down movement of the UCA, the washers included in the kit interfered with the mounting nuts on the UCA. Did I read the directions backwards?? Big disappointment!

2. Used a 45 degree zerk fitting to be able to grease the upper ball joint. The wedge lowered the ball joint in the UCA about a 1/4 inch leaving the original location for the zerk fitting inaccessible. Directions did not mention anything about this?? Am I happy with the 45 degree fitting...not perfect but will work.

Basically, if I had to do it again, I would have not spent all the money on the lowering kit with the wedge. As I mentioned above and after the fact, I read the wedge is unnecessary with drops of 1 inch or less. But at least the wedge is in. I hope it is worth the frustrtion.

Things that are going right are the heavy duty front springs, roller perches, Granada spindles, competition crossmember that ties the frame rails into the shock tower where the LCA mounts, and and the 1 and 1/8 " sway bar. Hooray!

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone!!




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