StangDrummer's Grabber Blue '71
#21
(11-06-2012, 12:06 AM)StangDrummer Wrote: Long, long time since my last visit here. I had a building project, but now I have a proper garage with four pillar lift and other goodies 23_30_106

Also, I had another project... My Stang's engine broke. It was quite recently built, but it lasted only 4000 miles, and then BANG!BANG!BANG!.... Hell, I was really scared what happened! When I got my poor baby back to my garage, I drained oil and found lots of bearing material in it. That's it! I was so pissed off that first time I thought about quitting this damn struggling...

At february I gathered myself back together. Reading this forum and getting some answers led to the decision that the engine comes alive again, and this time I would play the role of Dr. Frankenstein happy.gif

So I started to disassemble the engine. When oil pan and windage tray was removed, this was what I found:





For some reason, some of the con rod bolts were not bottomed, and when time was right they did and nuts came loose. Con rod #5 in pics was worst, but there was four more rods which nuts weren't tight. I didn't wonder that terrible banging sound anymore. #5 con rod bearings were stacked and piston hit to head, BANG!

After I had completed the tear down and all the parts were checked at the machining shop (and found to be fine!!), I decided to do some modifications to oiling system. I contacted to Denny Wydendorf to get lifter bushings and tools to get the job done. For cam I choosed Tim Meyer's grooved bearings with one oil passage plug. Bore bushings installation was easy DIY job, thanks to proper tools, but cam bearings and oil passage plug I left for machinist.







Block deck surfaces got milled by 0.01", it was enough to make them clean and straight for aluminium heads. Cylinder bores, crank, pistons and rods were all ok, so only cleaning and polishing was needed.

So here's the old stuff for this build:

'71 Cleveland block, .030 over
stock crank, .010/.010 under
Cloyes double roller timing
stock rods, cleaned, ARP
Speed Pro forged flat tops, 1.5cc valve reliefs
Moroso windage tray
PP PowerForce harmonic balancer
Mallory E-Fire dist
Hooker Comp headers, 2.5" exhaust, Dynomax mufflers, no H/X

And then to new parts:

Schneider hydraulic roller cam, 282/282 adv., 232/232 .50", .588"/.588", 110
Howards retrofit roller lifters
Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum roller rockers, 1.7 ratio
Trick Flow pushrods
Melling standard oil pump
TFS-51610004-M62 Power Port 190 Cylinder Heads, 62cc chambers, 1.530 dual springs
MSD Atomic EFI
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap
Mallory Hyfire 6AL box
Flow Kooler 1648 water pump
Robert Shaw 333/192 thermostat
Fel Pro FS8347PT
ARP bolts and nuts all the way
CVF pulleys and brackets









Old AOD tranny was real troublemaker, and I changed it to 4R70W from 2003 3.8 l Mustang. My friend S. Maalismaa overhauled it and did necessary modifications, and finally I equipped it with 10" 3200 stall speed converter and Quick 1 controller.

Few ago I was very excited to turn the key first time, and oh boy I was pleased Awesome From the first second, throttle response was amazing, and everything felt and sounded right. I have driven this combo now approximately 800-900 miles, and it feels better and better, mile by mile Big Grin

One thing I'm sure of... My Mach needs wider rear tires! Those 255/60-15" tires act like super fast fuses, they just can't hold! Which is nice, haha Biggrin

[my-youtube width=480 height=360]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfECdYRglZM[/my-youtube]
Glad you got it all straightened out, at what r.p.m. does she pull hardest? Just curious as a fellow 351c owner.
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#22
(05-19-2013, 08:57 AM)Steven Harris Wrote: WOW!

Now that is pure beauty.

What a beauty, it's hard to beat grabber blue!
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