Floor Pans and Body Removal
#1
Okay. Here we go...

I've taken all my interior out but the dash and steering column for now. I need to replace the floor pans and package tray. Here's my first question. The package tray I don't have too much to question. Cut the old one out. Weld the new one in.

The floor pans... The front and rear driver sides are done. The front driver side is gone especially next to the rocker panel. The front passenger side has surface rust but still has good thickness and strenth. The rear passenger side is done in the center. Both seat platforms are in good shape. The right rear bolt hole on the passenger side was rusted out and came out with the seat. It left about a 3 inch opening. The plan is to remove the bolt hole from the seat and weld it to a piece of metal to patch the platform. The floor pans under the platforms are good. A few bits of surface rust but nothing major.

I'm trying to figure out my best approach to this and the order to do it in. I could just cut out the three section that are bad. Perhaps even the fourth area (passenger front) just because and replace with new floor pans. For about the same price of those four pieces though I can get two full length floors pans. Then my mind wonders to the support rails and torque boxes.

If I go with the four pieces I simply plan to spray the inside of the platform area with a rust inhibitor. Overall I plan to brush and sand the entire interior down to the metal. The exterior is straight and a only a few surface rust spots. Those will just a be sand, fill, sand, and paint.

If I cut out and grind on just the sections that are bad I'm guessing I won't have much work to do at all underneath. Those pieces that are solid still should still be in place and I'm just welding on top of them. If I cut out the full length of the floor pan I know I'll have to cut off my seat platforms and install them on the new ones. What about underneath? Will I have to cut off rails and boxes and weld them back on too or will they stay in place if I cut the full length out correctly?

My third train of thought runs the idea of lifting the body off the subframe. Then send the body, doors, front fenders, and hood off to paint. This leaves me the subframe, engine, transmission, and rear end just sitting there. Then I can go through it easily. Clean it all up. Replace what needs fixing. Then put it all back together with a new exhaust and suspension.

I've taken helicopters apart all the way to the skids and built them back up to airworthiness so I'm not too afraid to strip this car down either. It's just other than the floor pans and package tray I have a solid car that runs. So I even debate if I should just drive it to the paint shop. Strip the driveshaft, readend, and suspension there, leave it on & paint around it, or have I lost my mind wanting to take it all apart? My biggest question would be how much work am I getting in to with removing my dash panel and accessories off the firewall. Worth it just have to a fun weekend driver?
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#2
Whoa! there killer! I'm confused on one thing, there is no removeable subframe on a Mach 1? They are Unibody cars, all one piece. All the rest of your thinking seems sound, as to whether you should replace or patch, The quality of your work, only comes into play as far as safety, and resale value. When I do the work on mine it will be with safety, and extra strength as I intend to have 600+ HP. So it will need all the help it can get. So if you just want a solid driver, I might buy new panels and just weld in the bad areas, if your looking for strength. The more you replace the stronger it will be and you can control the quality of the repairs. Just some thoughts. JTS 71 Mach1
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#3
Thanks. I would like as much support as possible so I'm thinking because the cost is the same going with the full length panels. I understand that I'm working with a unibody. The correct term escapes me as to what to call leaving the power train on the ground and removing the body. When I done with this I'd like this car to last. I do plan on upgrading the engine. Nothing like yours but likely in the 300-400hp range. I think in reading your post I won't be happy unless I know it's all solid and right. If I don't do it now I'm always going to see different areas and wish I didn't go the short route.
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#4
Personally, I would opt for the full pans as the end result is a cleaner look. Too many patches tend to look messy from underneath unless you butt weld them. But without pictures it is tough to assess what you are confronted with. Is it possible to upload a few pictures of the floor?
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#5
(09-30-2015, 09:06 AM)Mustangmike Wrote: Personally, I would opt for the full pans as the end result is a cleaner look. Too many patches tend to look messy from underneath unless you butt weld them. But without pictures it is tough to assess what you are confronted with. Is it possible to upload a few pictures of the floor?

I've got pictures over in the what have you done today section. My threads the Backyard Wrenching with the Kiddos. Here's a link. That's my thoughts too. Much cleaner look with two full floor pans. I'm also trying to see if there's less work envolved one way vs the other.


http://mach1club.com/showthread.php?tid=6316&page=2
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#6
(09-30-2015, 07:45 AM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote: Whoa! there killer! I'm confused on one thing, there is no removeable subframe on a Mach 1? They are Unibody cars, all one piece. All the rest of your thinking seems sound, as to whether you should replace or patch, The quality of your work, only comes into play as far as safety, and resale value. When I do the work on mine it will be with safety, and extra strength as I intend to have 600+ HP. So it will need all the help it can get. So if you just want a solid driver, I might buy new panels and just weld in the bad areas, if your looking for strength. The more you replace the stronger it will be and you can control the quality of the repairs. Just some thoughts. JTS 71 Mach1

I guess this is what I was referring to when I said take the body off the sub-frame. I was referring to when I cut the floor pans out going ahead a lifting the body off the torque bars (?) underneath. Perhaps based on the response best to leave all this attached.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#7
Nice work...the rotisserie makes the job much easier I bet! I like the installation work on your sub-frame connectors, very clean looking. Is there any modification needed to the seat risers because of them?
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#8
(09-30-2015, 02:12 PM)ejnonamaker Wrote:
(09-30-2015, 07:45 AM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote: Whoa! there killer! I'm confused on one thing, there is no removeable subframe on a Mach 1? They are Unibody cars, all one piece. All the rest of your thinking seems sound, as to whether you should replace or patch, The quality of your work, only comes into play as far as safety, and resale value. When I do the work on mine it will be with safety, and extra strength as I intend to have 600+ HP. So it will need all the help it can get. So if you just want a solid driver, I might buy new panels and just weld in the bad areas, if your looking for strength. The more you replace the stronger it will be and you can control the quality of the repairs. Just some thoughts. JTS 71 Mach1

I guess this is what I was referring to when I said take the body off the sub-frame. I was referring to when I cut the floor pans out going ahead a lifting the body off the torque bars (?) underneath. Perhaps based on the response best to leave all this attached.

Yeah, definitely best to leave that all attached. JTS 71 Mach1
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#9
Thanks. I know when I was in the Army I helped a guy restore/rebuild several Mustangs. He always took the body off of these. He also normally replaced the subframe altogether with some "super" tubing. He was putting 600-800hp engines back in. I guess I just recalled this as standard practice. That was a long, long time ago so my memory escapes me sometimes.
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#10
The picture in post #6 is of some nice custom uni-body extension work.

To drop your drivetrain and yet have a moveable body you will need a rotisserie or a body dolly. Either of which can be built or bought.

Full floor pans will be more preparation work with less welding (although still a lot), less seems and should yield a better outcome. Sectional pans would allow you to tackle one area at a time.
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