Headers for 1969 mach 1 351w 4brrl?
#31
Well let me start by saying sorry you are having issues with a part that I recommended, I assure you the 6116 super comps that I installed in my Mach fit fine and that's why I recommended them. From your posts I'm assuming the driver side fit ok with no rubbing, and the issue is only with the pass side. As for the bracket that is causing the interference on the tower, I just went out and checked, on my car it is flush with the tower and your's sticks out. Why the difference ? I'm not sure, has your car ever been involved in an accident ? When the engine was out did you throughly inspect the towers for cracks/damage ? Maybe 1969_Mach1 can chime in on how his looks.

At any rate lets look at your options.

1. Clearance the header, If you got the stainless this might be an option, if you got the ceramic coated I wouldn't do this as it will damage the coating and will cause it to rust prematurely.

2. Try bending back the bracket on the tower, personally I wouldn't attempt this because of possible damage/cracking to the tower.

3. Call it a day with the 6116's and return them letting whom ever you purchased them from know they didn't fit, and exchanging them for a more "universal" fit header. Unless you have the stainless and feel comfortable denting them to fit I think returning them is your best option.

Once again sorry you had an issue, unfortunately when dealing with old cars things like this can happen. Randy.


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#32
Actually on my Mach 1 that plate is flush with the shock tower. Plus it was continuously welded to the shock tower as part of the reinforcement kit I installed. I have seen some stick out like Rindel's.

Rsmach1 makes a good point that the shock tower might be sagging inward from normal wear or cracks which are common for these cars as they age. If the OP installs a one piece factory shock tower export brace on the car that would provide a clue as to if the shock tower is sagging inward. Another indicator is to whether or not the front wheels will align correctly.

Also, like Rsmach 1 mentioned, exchange these headers for something else before modifying them. You will damage the coating by modifying them.

Regards,
Mike
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#33
Rindel, not to change topic, but I thought in one of your posts in another thread you mentioned you were installing a Professional Products aluminum intake manifold. I see a stock intake in the photo's or am I mistaken?

Regards,
Mike
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#34
Glad you guys mentioned the ceramic coating, as I hadn't even given that a thought? In my day we didn't even know about ceramics. Sometimes it takes all of us to get things right. SSig_goodjob JTS 71 Mach1
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#35
In my earlier posts I was thinking of porting the heads but didn't want to change intake manifold because I am trying to keep the car original although I did change the headers to performance ones.

I was able to cut enough of the metal plate part of shock tower that was sticking out give myself 1/4 inch of space. I put everything under the hood back together and started it up without issues. Engine was running smooth and quickly started right up.

Next i Am going to work on connecting exhaust pipes to header reducers (2 1/4 pipe). Then change trans oil, brake pads, put hood back on and test drive it.

I'll upload dome pics of final outcome of grinding work and header space later.
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#36
It must have been another members thread where I saw the intake manifold discussed.

I'm glad the headers fit. For a stock motor, short headers, or mid length headers like JBA offers, would work as well as a long tube header. I will admit, they don't have the cool factor that a long tube header has, and on a performance motor you would give up some upper RPM power. The advantage of a short header is fewer fitment issues, no need for any drop brackets for the power steering ram on the bottom side of the car (from what I have seen), and good ground clearance.

Anyway, these fit and I will confess I wasn't certain they would, and they will work well with any future engine modifications if you decide to do so. If you are building new exhaust, I would suggest 2-1/2 inch diameter tubing to compliment the headers and support any future engine modifications. The 2-1/2 inch fits fine from front to back of the car. Also, at least an H-pipe, although an X-pipe is supposed to work better. I don't know what today's standard is for X-pipe sizing. When they first became popular for street applications the next size larger tubing was normally used in the X-section. For example, an exhaust with 2-1/2 inch tubing would have an X-section with 3 inch tubing.

Best Regards,
Mike
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#37
Do they make a 2.5 inch dual tail pipe like the original?
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#38
Glad to hear you got the headers worked out. As for the exhaust I would go with 2 1/2 also as suggested, I don't believe there is a 2.5" kit That mimic's the stock setup. MagnaFlow and Flowmaster make good kits depending on which sounds better to you. But whatever kit you go with there will be some work to install it as will take at least some minor tweeking to get installed.
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#39
I have seen some dual outlet tips for 2-1/2 inch tubing. They are the same basic concept as the originals but still they don't look like or try to mimic the originals. I definitely would not let the factory exhaust tip determine the size of the exhaust system. Worst case scenario is have a muffler shop rework the stock tips to fit a 2-1/2 inch tubing. Any muffler shop should be capable of doing that.

Regards,
Mike
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