(03-07-2015, 09:27 AM)Mustang-David Wrote: I think the part that makes me the most nervous is breaking loose those rusted bolts on the motor mounts and the manifolds.
While waiting for the opportunity to get back to work on your Mach 1, take the time to soak those rusted bolts with some penetrating oil. Give then a shot a couple of times a day.
You might be surprised by how easy the manifolds come off once you have the engine out of the car. Use a long extension and a 5/8 socket to remove the motor mount bolts from the block, there are two on each side looking up from under the car. I would leave the mounts attached to the car until after you remove the engine. I was cleaning my engine today and removed alll the freeze plugs and found two extra freeze plugs in the water jacket, what a bonus! I am sure they contributed to my overheating issues as there was a ton of crud behind them limiting flow to the back two cylinders. Here is a photo of the air powered hydraulic ram I have on my cherry picker, I picked it up at Harbor Freight 5-6 years ago on close out for $50. It works great.
If you get a broken bolt or pipe thread fitting due to rust or just stubbornness that won't loosen, I use heat from an acetylene torch, and paraffin wax (MAP Gas propane torch might work, never tried). Heat the rusty fastener near the base where it enters the threaded hole, not to glowing red, but slightly before, you don't want to soften the bolt or fitting, then immediately, as quick as you can, remove the heat, hit it with paraffin wax near the base and try to loosen it. It may take a couple tries. It works better than spraying the hot bolt or fitting with a penetrating oil because it doesn't flash off. Instead the wax melts and if all goes well, flows into the threads. I learned that method when GM was sending me to school. I've removed a lot of bolts and smog pump tube fittings with this method.
Obviously, it only works if you can grip the bolt or fitting with something, vice grips, easy out, etc.