69 mach 351w engine rebuild question
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Posts: 372
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Joined: Jan 2011
You can do it that way, but be advised that you'll have to remove the crankshaft as well ,since you didn't mention removing the cyl. head - which means you'll be changing the main bearings and connecting rod bearings. (You might as well since you have to disassemble the rotating assembly) You also may have scoring in those cyls. which would require boring or a good honing at a minimum. You'll also be removing the water pump, front cover and timing chain and gears. Make sure you remove the fan BEFORE jacking up the engine off the mounts if you have a plastic or fiberglass fan shroud, or you'll be buying one of those too. In the time it takes to do all this stuff you would be better off just pulling the engine out and bolt it to an engine stand. That will make the job so much easier than trying to work overhead fumbling around in the dark. Your work can be more organized, cleaner, and a lot less wear and tear on your back and neck. You'll also be able to inspect the removed parts a lot easier. Being a car guy involves sweat equity, there's no way around it. Just my 8 cents worth (I know it's worth more than 2 cents) GXR
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Well not sure if its the same but we changed a damaged piston in a jeep with the motor still in but pulled of the cylinder head as well put it back together and ran into no problems.
I assume you want to loosen the motor mounts to lift the motor high enough get the oil pan out of the way. If you don't get the clearance just drop the cross member and remove the steering linkage at the idler arm out of the way you should have a clear shot at the bottom end of your motor.
Just a reminder, if you have the top end of your motor together, make sure you turn the crank several times before lying underneath the car or you will end up taking an oil bath when the oil pump starts turning (from experience).
I would also recommend inspecting your cylinder walls and possibly honing them before you reinstall the piston(s) which is may require removing the cylinder head.
Please keep us posted...
Posts: 85
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Not knowing to expertise of your help i am assuming that he knows how to hone a cylinder and remove the ridge at the top of the cylinder. To safely remove the pistons and rings without damage. You will NOT get the piston out with out removing the head. There are many books and info on how to rebuild/repair an engine. You will have a good time learning and doing. Hope this helps. If you need any more help don't hesitate to ask its cold here and there is no way i am going to the garage. Good luck keep us posted. John
Posts: 147
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Ok so it seams the nature of your goals has come to light. You want to keep everything stock and correct ( original ) So that being said you can do it the way you are describing however I would wager a lot of money that at sometime down the road you will have to do it again on another cylinder. I hate doing things twice so that being said my advice is to pull your motor out and tear it down and inspect all the internal parts. Sounds like with it burning oil in 2 cylinders that it's time. Have a reputable machine shop mic everything and let you know. You may be able to get buy with a light hone on cylinders and crank , who knows. I'm betting nor as that is rare today but deffinately a possibility. At worst you would have to turn the crank and bore the block where you coukd use stock type replacement pistons, have a valve job done on your head and then pick a factory or slightly warmer cam, assemble it and go on. Sounds like trying to keep things original is your goal so I woukd work in that direction. However I think a total rebuild is in order instead of trying to put a bandaid on it. Just my opinion.
YLWHRSE
Posts: 236
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Great advise so far on this thread. So let me ask, if I pull the engine, what parts would you recommend I replace keeping in mind I want to keep as original as possible and the job simple. I don't mind adding a few ponies and rebuilding to last. I could throw some money at it since I would be doing it myself. e.g. can i fix whats bad and port the heads only to add a few more HP?
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A trusted engine machine shop is what you need to find.
They will honestly tell you what needs to be done to your motor as a basis for your build. Minimum bore/honing, crank specification, rod condition, .. etc.
Once the motor is examined it's needs will explain themselves.
BUT a trusted engine shop will be the essential part of the equation.
Posts: 147
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(02-17-2015, 01:32 AM)Steven Harris Wrote: A trusted engine machine shop is what you need to find.
They will honestly tell you what needs to be done to your motor as a basis for your build. Minimum bore/honing, crank specification, rod condition, .. etc.
Once the motor is examined it's needs will explain themselves.
BUT a trusted engine shop will be the essential part of the equation.
Agree 100%. You will need a good machine shop as I'm sure you will need work done that you just don't have the equipment and knowledge to do -IE boring and honing tge block, vlv job, surfacing the heads and decking tge block ect. Find a good machine shop.
YLWHRSE
Posts: 3,119
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One tidbit of advice, I didn't see mentioned. I would not recommend simply honing the block, as Ford used a high nickel content in their blocks, and it makes it very hard to get new rings to seat after just honing. And it will burn more oil then before. I wouldn't waste the time and effort doing the job, with out boring the cylinders. Just my opinion. JTS 71 Mach1
Posts: 85
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Joined: Jan 2015
Super M is correct. Ford at one time did offer slightly over sized 0.003 pistons and rings as a factory repair/ factory over bore. you would have to check for parts availability . Definitely find a good machine shop and tell them you want to keep the cylinders small as possible for future rebuilds. While you have the engine out, do a good street cam, carburetor, headers. The three easiest and cheapest performance you can do. Then shift kit and 351 gear set. Will wake that thing up pretty good.
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Some interesting info in this thread. Two points I would make:
1) When carbs were the go at Bathurst (read Indi) all the cars used Rochester Quadrajets. They are very tuneable but really need a dyno.
2) Out here we have a company called Yella Terra who do nothing but head work. I have used their product in my 308 Holden. Excelent results. Maybe they would export for you?
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