Posts: 32
Threads: 4
Joined: Oct 2014
Well that gives me hope knowing that someone other than me thinks the car can be saved ;) I was pulling pieces out the trunk and got a set of gauges in there honeycomb tail lights and two dashboards and some Nasty seats. One door handle is plastic cover with mustang under on the metal other a basic one. Was the mustang a add on an original piece, cause I like it. Appears to be few cracks in frame so looks like I get to start by cutting and patching
Posts: 379
Threads: 2
Joined: Feb 2011
The steering column is not Mustang
Mustang door handles were plain - no Mustang logo on them
Posts: 4,181
Threads: 46
Joined: Jan 2011
A little bit (okay quite a bit) of determination and perspiration will make all the difference in the world.
As Don mentioned the steering column in not a Mustang piece but it makes me wonder what it is out of as it seems to "fit". An old LTD I would imagine.
Don is a great contact to have for just such builds - he knows his 71-73 Mach 1 stuff!
Tackle one item at a time. Bag and tag everything as it comes off. Take plenty of digital pictures for reference latter. I would recommend getting the car down to your basic shell and give it a good complete clean which will help you determine where you are.
With a solid foundation for the build - enjoy.
Posts: 32
Threads: 4
Joined: Oct 2014
Yeah someone really changed it up. It has a automatic in it but I found a clutch pedal hookup. Just makes u wonder lol
Posts: 32
Threads: 4
Joined: Oct 2014
Ok I'm about to get on deep about to but out a local mechanic if I get the money for another 73 mach and a 71 mustang mach clone both run with 351 Cleveland's and a extra 351 CJ with a full interior in a box for 3000 is it worth it the CJ need ran through and both cars need floor pans
Posts: 3,119
Threads: 92
Joined: Jan 2010
Sounds like it could be, as getting a complete new interior and 3 engines that run. Sounds quite doable for $3000.00. How complete are they? You said they need floors which aren't to terrible to install. The real problem spots are the cowls, shock tower areas, torque boxes, and frame rails themselves. if these are in fair to good condition. Then I would definitely say yes. Check them out thoroughly, but it sounds like you may be headed down the right path. JTS 71 Mach1
Posts: 2,305
Threads: 44
Joined: May 2012
Hey Hoss,
I am glad to see you were able to get some pictures of your car loaded. Although, I can't get a full assessment of the rust from pictures, let's just say I have seen a lot worst.
If I had to give any advice it would be to first establish a budget to restore this car. If the car is within your budget then start pricing out the parts you will need and stay on track with your budget. In other words, don't spend good money chasing bad which is very easy to do.
Second don't get overwhelmed by the project. To do this set small attainable goals. In my restoration project, I focused on small sections of the car at one time. It sounds like common sense but I see a lot of uncompleted restoration projects on Craigslist and e-Bay. So don't let your loss be someone else's gain! You will loose money every time!
If that car was sitting in my yard, the first thing I would do is get it sandblasted inside and out, get it up on a body cart. This is a very attainable short term goal and will allow you to get a good assessment of the metal work before you. After this, keep setting small attainable goals until the metal work is done. Before you know it you will be making forward progress little steps at a time.
Your car can be restored! I walked away from my 66 fastback because it was in such bad shape I thought I would not be able to restore the car. But I turned around and decided to buy it. It was the best thing I ever did!
Good luck and let is know if you need any advice.
Posts: 105
Threads: 15
Joined: Jan 2014
Hey Okie!
I saw it said you were in central Oklahoma. Not sure if you have gone down to Obsolete and classic auto parts in OKC yet, but I recommend going in there they have catalogs they will give you for free if you ask. I have found that Don Witt, who is a regular on the site and very helpful, has better prices but their catalog can give you an idea of prices and help build your parts list. The place is right off of 35 on the west side of the interstate.
Keep us informed on if you pick up that parts car/s or not there is a guy here with either a 72 or 73 for sale. Its in much better shape then what you are working with. I would grudgingly call it a driver, but it needs work. He has been trying to sell it for 6k for months so it may be buyable for less by now. Its a 302 car from what I was told, but I haven't seen it more than just pulling up and reading the for sale sign and walking around it.
T
Posts: 32
Threads: 4
Joined: Oct 2014
Thanks everyone. The cars I'm really hoping I can get the mechanic said they ran and he has a set of tires rims to throw in he bought to restore with his grandfather but they got side tracked on classic pickups. Said quarter panels were bad as well as needing new floor but talked him down 2500 throwing in extra interior and gauges lol if i can manage and they decent will hopefully be driving 1 by spring and working on the next ;)
Mustang mike: I agree it's what I'm trying to strip and blast just focussing on frame first.
Thx Todd I'll check.
I'm feeling much more comfortable working on the car knowing all you nice people are here to help bail me out if I get lost and the forums are good reading. Even if i don't manage the parts cars I feel I can get this done.. Now if I can just quit eyeing evey scrap yard lol.
Side note I located a rusted 67 convertible GTO for 4500 if someone feels like a challenge I can give u location/ number to the guy he also has 2 72 mach 1's that are near complete not sure on price
Posts: 3,119
Threads: 92
Joined: Jan 2010
Geezz, Hoss it sounds like Central Oklahoma has all the good stuff. I may have to take a road trip one weekend. I'm in Arkansas, Any thoughts where I should start? JTS 71 Mach1