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I have a 70 Mach 1 428scj and the only oil I can find locally is Valvoline VR1 10w-30w Racing Oil and it states it's recommended for street motors with flat tappet cams and good for 3,000 miles. I have an appointment to get all the fluids changed out this Friday and I want to make sure this is good enough oil with the proper additives required?????? Any thoughts on this oil and does anybody here use it????
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In my opinion, racing oil is not very good in classic cars. My reasoning is racing oil usually doesn't have any detergents in it to help clean the engine. Racing oil is made for racers who probably rebuild their engines at least once a year. If used in street cars that aren't rebuilt often, it could lead to sludge build up. Plus, just because it's racing oil doesn't always mean it is high zinc. Oil companies are changing their blends all the time.
If it were my car, I'd either go with a modern "Hot Rod" oil made for classic cars like those made by Edelbrock, Comp Cams, Joe Gibbs, etc. These oils also have rust inhibitors since many classic cars sit through the winter in many states and aren't driven many miles per year. Or, others use regular oil like 10w30 Castrol GTX and add a bottle of zinc additive like ZDDP. Not as much rust inhibitor when you do this though.
That's my 2 cents.
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I would definitely think that you would want to contact your camshaft manufacturer and get their recommendations.
I don't know.
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Thanks guys...I contacted Valvoline MFG and the VR1 is designed for street motors with flat tappet cams....Not for Racing.......They also recommended the 10w-30w via the 50w to keep the cam properly lubricated.....and oil changes at 3,000 miles.
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(06-12-2013, 04:44 AM)Shippy428scj Wrote: Thanks guys...I contacted Valvoline MFG and the VR1 is designed for street motors with flat tappet cams....Not for Racing.......They also recommended the 10w-30w via the 50w to keep the cam properly lubricated.....and oil changes at 3,000 miles.
Just curious. Did they say anything about detergents and rust inhibitors?
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(06-13-2013, 01:40 AM)jholmes217 Wrote: (06-12-2013, 04:44 AM)Shippy428scj Wrote: Thanks guys...I contacted Valvoline MFG and the VR1 is designed for street motors with flat tappet cams....Not for Racing.......They also recommended the 10w-30w via the 50w to keep the cam properly lubricated.....and oil changes at 3,000 miles.
Just curious. Did they say anything about detergents and rust inhibitors?
Yes they did and it does has those additives in it.....
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In my opinion I would go for a 20w 50 oil racing or otherwise. With an older engine and larger oil clearences. I like a thicker and more high temp protection then a 10w30. Through the summer I always run this in my older stuff. Late model cars have much tighter tolerences. and there for I tend to run what Ford recommends. Just a few thoughts. JTS 71 Mach1
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(06-13-2013, 12:25 PM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote: In my opinion I would go for a 20w 50 oil racing or otherwise. With an older engine and larger oil clearences. I like a thicker and more high temp protection then a 10w30. Through the summer I always run this in my older stuff. Late model cars have much tighter tolerences. and there for I tend to run what Ford recommends. Just a few thoughts. JTS 71 Mach1
Thanks.....I appreciate everybody's input on this..Kelly
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The Valvoline "racing oil" does have the additives and it has a high content of zinc or ZDDP as it is called. My cam manufacturer cam research in Colorado highly recommends their oil for those reasons and it is a good high quality oil and is found most anywhere including the marts. I run anymore mostly roller cams because of all the benefits that come with them and the ease of break in, and lack problems in that regard. Most of my more aggressive solid roller cams in use they recommended the 20w50 Valvoline racing oil and I currently have an engine with very close to 90,000 miles that I have changed the oil & filter every 2500 miles, with no problems whatsoever. Just my experience FYI. That being said I do also really like the advantages of synthetic oils, but you have to be very careful if you use them since most do not have enough ZDDP. That being said there are several specific types in many brands that due. Some are made by Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil ect. Just do the research, check out there web sites and make a few phone calls as they are very helpful and glad to offer some assistance. If you don't want to phone most company's will correspond via e-mail. I run both lucas and Royal purples high ZDDP synthetics in a couple of my cars but I still change the oil & filter at the normal intervals. I just cant let myself let the oil go as long as they say it should. Yes synthetics are expensive, but so are the engines you either have now or are rebuilding or may need rebuilt, compared to those costs in my opinion even the synthetics higher cost is a very small investment in the life of your motor. Just my two cents worth.
YLWHRSE
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I run Castrol GTX 20w-50 year round in all except my newest BMW and the MINIs (yes I have a lot of cars). Never a problem. Temps here 5-37C