What Am I Looking AT?
#11
you know to get the exact dimensions on it you would have to pull it and get it verified by a machine shop that turns crankshafts and cams, as for brand there are only a few companys making the billets anymore, so they look similar
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#12
Pull the cam out and look for the grind number and possible part number either the front or back of cam, then you can look up cam and see what you have
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#13
(10-01-2011, 01:08 PM)thundertc64 Wrote: Pull the cam out and look for the grind number and possible part number either the front or back of cam, then you can look up cam and see what you have

I figured that I could do that but I was not sure if and or where the numbers would be. Thanks.
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#14
Your welcome Steven, i have to do the same with mine when i decide to tear it down PO installed cam and i have no clue as to what it is. When i had my valve covers off cleaning them i noticed doubled valve springs on this thing and it has me wondering.
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#15
UPDATE:

So, I was able to remove the block and bring it down to where I live to go through all of it. Of course I will now be able to clean and paint the doghouse while I am at it.

Here is what I have found - or not found. No visible name on the camshaft. Part of the foundry marks are CWC and 1208 on the front part of the cam. Towards the rear are some more foundry numbers: 01 and 16.

Also on the rear of the cam are some stamped numbers: 965720 and 667.

Anyone have any queses?


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#16

I am not sure except that you already have it apart, so Id change out that camshaft anyhow.
It looks like there is small pitting on the lobes. Either way it would need polishing in the least.

Id also take the 1970 heads off your other motor and have the machine shop rebuild them with good stainless steel valves and use them on that engine since the pistons are fairly new.
It might be beneficial to check the main bearings just for good measure.

If it was me Id dissassemble the whole engine and clean and inspect the whole thing because you did alot of dissassembly in that dirty open dusty lot out in the open, so the whole internals of the engine are dirty and needing cleaning anyhow.Naughty

Do it all inside! Biggrin


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#17
Thanks Masterblaster,

The whole motor is now inside and disassembled. All the parts including the cam are brand new. My other motor is another story and in another state so I will be working with what I have at this time. The goal is to get the car together and running and then tackle higher goals at another time. Right now the thought is to have an idea of what I have for a good base idea for the future.

From what I can tell I have 8 1/2 or 9:1 compression pistons and a stock grind cam. It looks like it was a stock rebuild with .30 over. I am cleaning it all up and will reassemble it for now. Add an aftermarket intake and a Holley, maybe a set of headers and enjoy.
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#18
hey steve,
thought this might help the CWC on your cam is the foundry markings For more information about CWC camshafts call (231) 739-2610 they can tell everything about that cam.
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#19
Thanks Robert.
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#20
(10-01-2011, 06:10 AM)JTS71 Mach1 Wrote: Hey Steven I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those are not flat tops. They are unadoribly known as swimming pools! So claimed by the lowered section in the middle, there by reducing the compression ratio to about 8.5 to 1. Ford did this to keep from changing the heads to larger combustion chambers. They simply dished the pistons. Cheaper to make new pistons, then heads. JTS 71 Mach1

I noticed that too. Ford used 8cc & 15cc dished pistons. Together w/ open chamber heads fr '72 on compression could be as low as 8:1. The '73 & '74 Cleves had the lowest compression of them all; Ford could've supplied a hand crank w/ the car. Yeah, those are dished & 15cc isn't very much until it affects compression. I like the term "swimming pools" LOL.
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