08-20-2009, 07:10 PM
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED!
TORQUE WRENCH, AIR SPOT GRINDER AND PADS, SOCKETS, GASKET SCRAPPER OR RAZOR BLADES
THINNER,CAN OF FORD BLUE SPRAY PAINT(OPTIONAL) ,FL-1A OIL FILTER, GALLON OF ANTIFREEZE, FEL-PRO INTAKE GASKET KIT,
CAN OF THE RIGHT STUFF GASKET MAKER OR FORD ULTRA SILICONE SEALANT(F7TZ-19554-AA), CAN OF PERMATEX HIGH TAC SEALANT.
STEPS TO FOLLOW
1. Let car sit overnight.
2. Remove breather from vehicle.
3. Remove spark plug wires from the spark plugs and ignition coil, but leave wires connected to distributor cap.
4. Remove distributor cap from distributor. NOTE:Where #1 on cap is pointing for replacing later.
5. Loosen drain cock on bottom section of radiator and let antifreeze drain into a pan and depose of properly.
6. Next remove the ignition coil from intake manifold, place to the side.
7. Disconnect all vacuum lines from carburetor and intake. Mark lines with tape if needed for reassembly.
8. Disconnect kick down rod , accelerator cable and fuel line at carburetor, move out of way.
9. Loosen and remove the four nuts holding the carburetor to the intake manifold. Put nuts into a ziplock bag for safe keeping. Remove carburetor from intake.
10. Loosen and remove the twelve intake bolts from intake and place in order as which they came out. I always put them back into the same holes.(If bolts are not damaged)
11. Next because the cast iron intake is heavy, grab intake with both hands and pull up. It should come off, if not take a screw driver and pry up on the front. P.S don't do this with and aluminum intake can cause damage.
12. Next remove the valley pan and place a piece of newspaper down in the valley to stop dirt and old pieces of gasket from dropping into the valley and getting into your engine. Take a razor blade or gasket scrapper and remove all old gasket material from the intake as well as from around the ports on both heads.
13. After scrapping the gaskets off, take your air grinder(on low pressure about 70 psi) and stripper pads and clean all mating surfaces on heads and the bottom of intake manifold for a better result.Once finished wipe down with thinner.
14. (Optional) While intake is off clean it up and repaint it with engine high temperature paint.(Ford Blue)
15. Apply a thin coat of High Tac gasket sealant on the cylinder heads around the bolt holes and ports. Align the side rail gaskets as needed.
16. Next install the end seals, use the nibs to locate seals. Install these seals dry without any chemical adhesives.
17. After gaskets are in place take silicone sealer( The Right Stuff) and apply a 1/8" bead of silicone around each port and also a small dab of silicone to the four corners where the ends of the block meets with the cylinder heads.
18. Place the new valley pan using the two dowel pins to hold it into place.
19. Take intake manifold and lower back onto the block and align using the bolts. Snug bolts down using the bolt torque sequence found in a repair manual.Torque bolts to 25-28 foot pounds.
20. Put carb back to intake,replace carb gasket if needed. Reconnect fuel line, vacuum lines, kickdown rod and accelerator cable.
21. Put distributor cap back on distributor. Put ignition coil back. Run ignition wires back to plugs and the coil. 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 is the firing order for the 351C counter clock wise. Always keep the # 5 and #6 wires separted to prevent induction misfiring of #5 plug.
22. After everything is back together and triple checked, Top off radiator with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.
23. Now it is time for the green light and ignition, FIRE IT UP !!!. Let it run long enough to get warm.( This helps in the drying process) Turn off and check for leaks, If no leaks are found let car sit over night.
24. The next day drive the car for a little while and recheck the torque on the intake bolts to make sure they are still torqued to the correct specs.
25. YOU DID IT !!!!
TORQUE WRENCH, AIR SPOT GRINDER AND PADS, SOCKETS, GASKET SCRAPPER OR RAZOR BLADES
THINNER,CAN OF FORD BLUE SPRAY PAINT(OPTIONAL) ,FL-1A OIL FILTER, GALLON OF ANTIFREEZE, FEL-PRO INTAKE GASKET KIT,
CAN OF THE RIGHT STUFF GASKET MAKER OR FORD ULTRA SILICONE SEALANT(F7TZ-19554-AA), CAN OF PERMATEX HIGH TAC SEALANT.
STEPS TO FOLLOW
1. Let car sit overnight.
2. Remove breather from vehicle.
3. Remove spark plug wires from the spark plugs and ignition coil, but leave wires connected to distributor cap.
4. Remove distributor cap from distributor. NOTE:Where #1 on cap is pointing for replacing later.
5. Loosen drain cock on bottom section of radiator and let antifreeze drain into a pan and depose of properly.
6. Next remove the ignition coil from intake manifold, place to the side.
7. Disconnect all vacuum lines from carburetor and intake. Mark lines with tape if needed for reassembly.
8. Disconnect kick down rod , accelerator cable and fuel line at carburetor, move out of way.
9. Loosen and remove the four nuts holding the carburetor to the intake manifold. Put nuts into a ziplock bag for safe keeping. Remove carburetor from intake.
10. Loosen and remove the twelve intake bolts from intake and place in order as which they came out. I always put them back into the same holes.(If bolts are not damaged)
11. Next because the cast iron intake is heavy, grab intake with both hands and pull up. It should come off, if not take a screw driver and pry up on the front. P.S don't do this with and aluminum intake can cause damage.
12. Next remove the valley pan and place a piece of newspaper down in the valley to stop dirt and old pieces of gasket from dropping into the valley and getting into your engine. Take a razor blade or gasket scrapper and remove all old gasket material from the intake as well as from around the ports on both heads.
13. After scrapping the gaskets off, take your air grinder(on low pressure about 70 psi) and stripper pads and clean all mating surfaces on heads and the bottom of intake manifold for a better result.Once finished wipe down with thinner.
14. (Optional) While intake is off clean it up and repaint it with engine high temperature paint.(Ford Blue)
15. Apply a thin coat of High Tac gasket sealant on the cylinder heads around the bolt holes and ports. Align the side rail gaskets as needed.
16. Next install the end seals, use the nibs to locate seals. Install these seals dry without any chemical adhesives.
17. After gaskets are in place take silicone sealer( The Right Stuff) and apply a 1/8" bead of silicone around each port and also a small dab of silicone to the four corners where the ends of the block meets with the cylinder heads.
18. Place the new valley pan using the two dowel pins to hold it into place.
19. Take intake manifold and lower back onto the block and align using the bolts. Snug bolts down using the bolt torque sequence found in a repair manual.Torque bolts to 25-28 foot pounds.
20. Put carb back to intake,replace carb gasket if needed. Reconnect fuel line, vacuum lines, kickdown rod and accelerator cable.
21. Put distributor cap back on distributor. Put ignition coil back. Run ignition wires back to plugs and the coil. 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 is the firing order for the 351C counter clock wise. Always keep the # 5 and #6 wires separted to prevent induction misfiring of #5 plug.
22. After everything is back together and triple checked, Top off radiator with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.
23. Now it is time for the green light and ignition, FIRE IT UP !!!. Let it run long enough to get warm.( This helps in the drying process) Turn off and check for leaks, If no leaks are found let car sit over night.
24. The next day drive the car for a little while and recheck the torque on the intake bolts to make sure they are still torqued to the correct specs.
25. YOU DID IT !!!!
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