How to Remove Headlight Switch? -1972 Mach 1
#1
I've had a problem with my 1972 Mach 1 with the headlights kind of blinking or rather fast flickering like there is a loose connection somewhere.

I checked the back of both headlights and as much of the wiring harness as I could get to but didn't find anything loose. Anyone have any ideas?

Maybe it's the headlight switch? As is, the dimmer works poorly, so I just picked up a replacement switch from the Mustang Project (along with some cool blue LEDs for the instrument cluster).

The headlight switch was only $19.95 (part #D3ZZ-11654-A 71-72) so I figured, "what the heck". Plus I'll have instrument cluster out to replace the bulbs so I might as well do a new switch while I'm there...

Does anyone know how to get the old switch out? Does it screw in, clip in? What's the trick?

Any suggestions as to what else may be making the lights flicker? I already took out and cleaned the high beam floor switch and its connector without any improvement.

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#2
Hey Wayne,

Another Wednesday has come around and it sounds like you get to work on the Mach 1 again.

I am going to quote from my book as I have not done the headlight switch removal on the Mustang.

"To remove control knob and shaft assembly, place knob in full ON position, then press knob release button on switch and pull out knob and shaft out of switch.

Remove switch bezel (1 nut), then lower switch assembly. Disconnect wire junction block from switch."


The knob release button mentioned above is on the switch opposite side of the wire junction block and will be a button with a little spring.
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#3
It's been quite a few years since I replaced mine, but Steven's directions sound correct. You do NOT have to remove the instrument panel, just work from underneath. If I recall correctly, once you can locate and push the spring loaded button to remove the shaft, it's pretty easy.
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#4
I agree with the other 2 you may have to twist and pul while pushing in on the spring button on the switch.Reach under the dash and find the magic button.Might be easier to wait for the new one to see what we are talking about.
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#5
Thanks guys. Each of you gave me another piece of the puzzle!!

I got the new one today and was able to figure out where the magic button was by looking at the new one. Once I knew where to push behind the dash on the old one, it was a snap. The whole job took about 10 minutes.

I also swapped the instrument cluster bulbs for the new blue LEDs... but that took me a looooong time! I had taken out the cluster last week, so that part was easy, but the LEDs have polarity, so they only work ONE WAY. If it doesn't come on, you have to rotate the LED 180 degrees in the socket. My problem was many of my sockets have corrosion on them so the contacts had to be cleaned with a jewels file. Plus the wires leads coming out of the new LED bulbs are too close to the center and had to be moved to the outside edges in order to lign up with the socket contacts. There was a lot of trial and error!!!

I took the whole cluster to my basement work bench and got it all running - eventually - and checked it with a 12 volt battery. So I get out to the car, connect the electrical connector and - BAM - nothing works because every bulb had been inserted on the bench in exactly the same, unfortunately WRONG orientation so I had to remove and re-insert every bulb rotated 180 degrees. http://www.mach1club.com/images/smilies/.../crazy.gif

Works great and looks good too. And the turn indicators and high beam lights are really bright.

Somewhere in the online instructions, the manufacturer said you can replace all the bulbs except one- leaving a regular incandescent bulb in one socket if you want the dimmer to work. That's what I did and the dimmer works great too!!

Thanks again guys!!
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#6
Great news, glad it all worked out!
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#7
Not sure if this article will help but it cant hurt to give it a read.
See Article Here
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#8
Sounds great Wayne.

Did the new switch take care of you light flickering problems?
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