Rear Brake locking up????
#1
I changed the Power Steering lines on the 73 Mach. To facilitate this I unbolted the Master Cylinder and moved it to the side. Never opened the system. It sat for about a week before the correct lines arrived. once everything was put back into place the brake pedal felt soft so I bled and bled and bled no air. A soon as the pedal is depressed the rears lock up more so the right side. almost as though the front calipers are not functioning. I recently swapped out the master cylinder and the issue did not improve. Any thought or suggestion would be helpful.
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#2
Did you check the booster? What you are describing sounds a lot like how mine sounded a few months ago, which resulted in a new MC, booster and lines.
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#3
If you bleed the front, is there a good stream coming out of the bleeder?
when you moved the master and bent the lines over, could a flake of rust from inside the line have got into the prop valve?
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#4
(01-18-2011, 11:11 AM)dlaub1811 Wrote: Did you check the booster? What you are describing sounds a lot like how mine sounded a few months ago, which resulted in a new MC, booster and lines.

Booster was replaced about a month ago

(01-18-2011, 01:14 PM)don29163 Wrote: If you bleed the front, is there a good stream coming out of the bleeder?
when you moved the master and bent the lines over, could a flake of rust from inside the line have got into the prop valve?


I have pondered the same thing however the flow does not seem to be restricted when I bleed the system out.

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#5
Dang, it has to be in the Master Cyl or the Proportion valve. I think the booster would cause all 4 wheels to do the same thing.
This may help
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticl...index.html
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#6
(01-19-2011, 12:10 PM)don29163 Wrote: Dang, it has to be in the Master Cyl or the Proportion valve. I think the booster would cause all 4 wheels to do the same thing.
This may help
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticl...index.html

Master is new booster is new, found the right rear wheel cylinder damp, going to reach both of them and swap out the shoes, chamffered the leading edges of the shoes. I am thinking the prop valve also, going to pull it of this weekend and take it apart
Thanks for the link
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#7
So, what did you find?
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#8
(01-23-2011, 01:35 PM)don29163 Wrote: So, what did you find?

I found my but at work all day...lol going out in the morning to tackle it
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#9
The brakes are fixed!! Jam Rockxtreme Awesome I used this time to educate my son on doing his first rear brake job. I replaced both wheel cylinders and shoes. Beveled the leading edge of the shoes. The right wheel cylinder was leaking. Once everything was reinstalled I adjusted the shoes up to the drums for a little drag. Then we started the Bleeding process. It took a great deal of time for the left rear to bleed all the air out of it in comparison to the others. Managed to eventually get a good clean stream into the bottle. and my son mentioned that the pedal seemed to feel better. Post repair test drive revealed a good firm brake application. Let me mention that I did not change the proportioning valve.
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#10
SSig_goodjob

I have seen a lot of goofy stuff cause this problem even an out of round drum.But good job you found it.
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