08-11-2010, 06:23 AM
How it works:
The nitrous is forced through a solenoid valve and nozzle into the intake manifold or directly into the cylinder. Once the nitrous exits the nozzle it becomes mostly a gas, 36% of this gas is oxygen. This process of converting from liquid to gas also cools the air, which helps the air carry more oxygen. When the nitrous heats up and combusts, more oxygen is released and this then burns more fuel (more oxygen + more fuel = more power) - the combination of which will increase the power of your engine from as little as 1hp to many hundreds, depending on the application.
Note: more fuel must be provided at the time of nitrous release to avoid running lean (they must be in the right ratios - The chemically correct nitrous to petrol ratio is 9.649:1).
Limits:
Most cars will get a way with small doses of up to 50bhp (depending on engine condition), any more than this then you will have to be looking at stronger mechanical components and possibly new pistons, con rods, cylinder heads, gaskets, bolts etc for the larger increases.
Various Nitrous Systems:
There are many manufacturers of nitrous oxide, the most well known is NOS Nitrous Oxide Systems, many people actually use the term NOS when they talk about nitrous.
Wet Single Point:
The nitrous is mixed with the fuel in the intake manifold, through a plate above the intake manifold on carburetor cars and between the manifold and throttle body on fuel injected cars. The amounts of nitrous and fuel are metered for correct ratios.
Wet Direct Port - Fogger:
This system mixes the fuel and nitrous and sprays it straight into the cylinders. This allows each cylinder to accept a separate amount of mixture for optimal setups and also allows for several stages of nitrous. Using stages allows you to have a smaller amount of nitrous as you pull away (reducing wheel spin) then a larger amount as you speed up. A progressive version that slowly increases is also available.
Dry:
Additional fuel is introduced through the original fuel injectors (fuel injected cars) and not the intake, when the nitrous in activated. Only nitrous goes through the intake.
2003 Ford Cobra nitrous purge
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXV6PTjfIXA
What to watch for:
* Weak components, that will not take the extra tress and strains
* Using nitrous on a car that can't handle the power increase (see my guides on suspension and tyres).
* Any unusual noises, switch off immediately
* Don’t run the nitrous to the redline rev limiter – the rev limiter on most cars will back off the fuel and possibly cut the ignition, this will cause a very lean mixture and so likely damage your engine
* It may be advicable to start with small jets and work your way up as you and your car get used to it
* Best to go for a switchable button system in combination with a full throttle system. That way you can decide to have it on or off and when on, only activate when full throttle is applied.
Advantages/Disadvantages Of Nitrous Oxide:
Advantages of Nitrous Oxide:
1. Cost – bang for buck
2. Easy installation
3. Car can be used as per normal (fuel economy etc) when switched off. However, if you are using lots of nitrous and consequently have modified your car to allow for this (different spark plugs etc) you will now be driving a car setup for nitrous and running standard tune
Disadvantages Of Nitrous Oxide:
1. Excessive/over use can cause possible damage to engine, gearbox and clutch
2. Takes up space in the boot
3. Carrying compressed bottles can be dangerous
4. Doesn’t last long – advantage for engine life and the fact that you can have good power for daily driving then additional power when you want/need it. However that bottle will run out.
SOURCE