73 Grande Restoration

[taby448]

Sounds like a good plan.  If you are going to re-use your sending unit you should probably consider replacing the sock based on all the rust in the tank.  Also, be sure to pick up a new rubber seal.  Here are a few links.

http://restorationpartssource.com/store/...bNEALw_wcB

https://www.cjponyparts.com/california-p...K7EALw_wcB

You can probably get these parts at one place to save on shipping.

Thanks for the tip! I'll replace it if the filter is discolored/dirty! most likely will anyways cause its 5 bucks 

[taby448]

Just got more photos of the concerning parts of the engine bay.
       
Seriously, what is this thing? I think its the idle stop thingy that brings up the idle when the ac is on
Then this is scary. This weekend I should be working on the car again, so im gonna find out if its the block or not. I hope not!!
           

[taby448]

JTS is right... for the amount of time you spend and product you buy to do the job right you could have one delivered and installed by the weekend.

While we're are on the subject, I picked up one of these inspection cameras from Harbor Freight to peek into my gas tank. The Fairlane tanks are about triple the price of a Mustang tank so it makes sense for me use the original one.  With this camera you can really see what's going on inside the tank.   It is a great tool to have laying around the garage.  I used it to see where the linkage on my door handles connect.  It is also great to have for cowl inspections.  Bring it with you when you go to look at an old car and then you can really drive the price down!

https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-in...61839.html

As you know Harbor Freight offers 20% coupon so I paid $60 bucks for it.

I had an inspection camera laying around. put new gas in the tank, drained it again. gas came out clean. Stuck the camera in there thru the gas cap spot, and it looks alot better than i thought. Perhaps it was just rust that fell off the bottom of the tank when I was dicking around with the car.
UPDATE: car starts right away, idles funny though.

[1969_Mach1]

Looks like the radiator hose and/or thermostat housing have been leaking for a long time.  More new parts are probably in order.  As far as idles funny, that could be a lot of things, i.e. one or more cylinders misfiring because a major tune up is in order, vacuum leak, carburetor needing to be rebuilt, a lifter sticking.  Hopefully it's nothing major.  Have you done a compression test to get an idea of the integrity of the motor?

To the best of my knowledge, that solenoid attached to the side of the carburetor increases the idle speed when the A/C is turned on.

[taby448]

Looks like the radiator hose and/or thermostat housing have been leaking for a long time.  More new parts are probably in order.  As far as idles funny, that could be a lot of things, i.e. one or more cylinders misfiring because a major tune up is in order, vacuum leak, carburetor needing to be rebuilt, a lifter sticking.  Hopefully it's nothing major.  Have you done a compression test to get an idea of the integrity of the motor?

To the best of my knowledge, that solenoid attached to the side of the carburetor increases the idle speed when the A/C is turned on.

I have the replacement hoses and thermo housing, the engine sounds good, but the rpm bounces up and down. Carb was previously rebuilt. Haven't done a compression check yet

[Mustangmike]

Is it an inconsistent idle?  If so, it can be a number of issues with the carburetor or vacuum.  How long ago was the carburetor rebuilt?

[taby448]

Is it an inconsistent idle?  If so, it can be a number of issues with the carburetor or vacuum.  How long ago was the carburetor rebuilt?

Yes the idle goes up and down. The carb was rebuilt 4 years ago, but the inside is Really clean, and all the parts seem to still move freely.

[1969_Mach1]

First look for vacuum leaks, cracked hoses, loose intake manifold and carb mounting bolts.  The power brake booster is also a common source for vacuum leaks on older cars.  If the issue still persists I wouldn't hesitate to rebuild the carb.  It's a simple Autolite 2 barrel carb.  Replace the float when rebuilding the carb and also check and replace as needed any vacuum operated dashpots attached to the carb (if it has any)

Have you tried simply adjusting the carburetor idle air fuel mixture screws?  If that helps, If it were mine, I would still rebuild the carb, install a new float, and also check and replace as needed any vacuum operated dashpots attached to the carb (if it has any).

[Mustangmike]

Mike (1969 Mach 1) just about covers everything.  I pulled my shop manual and it mentions checking for a restricted PCV.   Other things might be a sticking fuel inlet needle, incorrectly installed throttle plates, improperly adjusted or defective dashpot (like Mike mentioned) to name a few.

It also mentions excessive looseness of the throttle shaft in bores of the throttle body.  I know this can cause a vacuum leak and often overlooked or not corrected during a rebuild.

Like Mike mention, check the simple stuff first like vacuum leaks and the PCV before tearing into the carburetor.  Out of curiosity do you know who rebuilt the carburetor?

[taby448]

First look for vacuum leaks, cracked hoses, loose intake manifold and carb mounting bolts.  The power brake booster is also a common source for vacuum leaks on older cars.  If the issue still persists I wouldn't hesitate to rebuild the carb.  It's a simple Autolite 2 barrel carb.  Replace the float when rebuilding the carb and also check and replace as needed any vacuum operated dashpots attached to the carb (if it has any)

Have you tried simply adjusting the carburetor idle air fuel mixture screws?  If that helps, If it were mine, I would still rebuild the carb, install a new float, and also check and replace as needed any vacuum operated dashpots attached to the carb (if it has any).

Haven't gotten around to playing with the screws